desertdeals69

Get one with a manual transmission and you won't have the problems that have been documented on this forum.

I think I would change the locks because of all of the other rvers would have the same key.

It sounds like there is water leaking into the area. Have you located the source? Another way of doing the sealing would be to coat the electrical connection with liquid neoprene.

On the installs that I do, I angle the tv downward so that the center of the screen up and down is at 90 degrees aimed at you eyes. This gives you the best picture.

I have Surge Guard 50 amp that works for me. It will shut down for over or under voltage and won't turn on if there is a problem with the wiring at the campground.

When we go to DC we always stayed a Greenbelt National park. Subway station is 1 1/2 miles away. It was $8 a night and no hookups but does have water and sewer dump station. We usually stay a week or so.

On those oil caps why don't you replace the cap with tubing so you can oil them from the outside?

I've noticed that my fan on my dp has nicks from rocks and other debris. I don't know of a practical way of preventing it. Maybe you could fashion some kind of spray system where you could just have to hook up a garden hose to flush the dirt and mud off. Similar to a salt water flush out of an outboard motor.

I use a camping sleep mat from Walmart. They cost about $8 and I hold them on with 6 foot bungee cords. Absolutely the best protection from rocks and other debris. Been throught Alaska and everywhere else without a mark on the front of my Silverado.

Go with a china bowl and its much easier to clean. We sometimes spray the bowl with silicone or wax.

I have been doing it that way since the 70s, on 10 motorhomes, works great.

Usually the inverter powers low current draw items such as tv, outlets, microwave because it is used for a few minutes. When you are plugged in the 120 volt goes through the inverter and powers the aforementioned circuits. Perhaps the system is not wired correctly.

My coach came with a 5.9 mechanical Cummins. I modified it for more performance however it didn't work with the existing radiator, cac, transmission. I change engines to a 98 ISB electronic Cummins with a 6 speed, larger radiator, cac and it runs good. I have put 120,000 miles on it. When you change filters the electric pumps will prime the system.

What gen do you have? I have a 6300 Onan which runs on liquid propane. I average about 1/2 gal/hr. I wonder if you have a leak or that your tank was not full to begin with.

On your inline filter/dryer check the max air pressure. I have two different brands and they are rated for only up to 90 lbs. My 235/80 R 22.5 Michelins need only 75 lbs so I just used my dry air from the coach.

I find that the air chuck that faces the handle works better if it is straight aimed at the handle not angled outward. Lines up with the outer dual through the 2 inch hole easier.

Sounds like a good plan. I don't have any pets but it seems that about half of the RVs do.

Last I heard was the Roadmaster services their tow bars at no charge and Blue Ox charges $25 or $50.

I have a Silverado 6 cyl 5 speed that I have towed about 100,000 miles. I have gone over a thousand miles without starting the truck.

Your mileage is about average that I've been hearing from other V-10 owners. Those that claim significantly higher may have an odometer problem, I have traveled with others on trips that claim way more miles that I was getting but when we filled up at the same time with the same mileage we took almost the same amount of fuel.

Now I understand where you coming from. When I have to add air, its only 1-3 pounds and thats roughly every 4-6 months. I have plenty of reserve air in the tank for that. If you tire is down 10 lbs you must have a leak if its overnight or if it is a longer period of time thats too much to be losing.

Wheel covers are notorious for making creaking noises. Usually there is a light duty socket wrench that comes with the wheel covers for taking the sheet metal nuts off. When topping off the gear oil level let it set for a couple of hours and then recheck it. You are adding oil to the outer bearing and it takes time to get to the inner bearing.

Another way of doing it would be to start your engine and when the air is built up then air your tires as necessary then leave on your journey. You need to air it up before you drive anyway. There are several reasons. The onboard air pump does not cycle until the pressure in the tank gets below about 90 lbs, therefore to get to 100 -110, you must stop filling and bleed the tank multiple times to approach 100 lbs. The compresser on my coach shuts off at 125 lbs, so this is a pita. The Porter Cable that I mentioned above cycles at 135 lbs, and shuts off at 165 lbs. The recommended pressures for tires are cold pressures, if you crank and drive, you now have warm tires, or hot tires, depending upon how far away the closest truck stop is. I prefer not to crank and idle my diesel if I am not going to drive somewhere, so I don't want to crank, fill and bleed, and then shut back down. Also, I like having the ability to use pneumatic brad nailers for small projects around the "house" without cranking the diesel. I don't work hammers very well. Of course, this means even more equipment in the MH!

We carry this compressor from Sears in our rig along with an extension cord. Fire up the gennie and air away with no problems on our 22.5 tires. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915309000P?mv=rr Why don't you just plug it in with the inverter on?

I usually get a Walmart atlas every other year. It has all the Walmart stores and the Sams Club stores listed and it only $7-8.