rayin

WELCOME TO THE FMCA DISCUSSION FORUMS! Open drain valve for fresh water tank, remove drain plug from water heater, open low-point drains, open all faucets, including outside shower. This allows water to drain away, however, it does not mean ALL water has drained away. Although the website does not go back to 1993, https://www.safaritrektalk.com/manuals-diagrams has information about Safari Trek MH's, including an owners manual. I suggest visiting/joining the FMCA Safari owners group too.

I agree with five; it's like dental insurance, you don't need it until you do.

Your description sound like you lost all 12V power. Have you tested with a multimeter for 12V presence? This is all I found searching for Frigi-Cool: https://www.bizapedia.com/tx/frigicool-inc.html I doubt it would be the blower motor resistor, but we never know until we test.

Even with disconnect switches from the mfgr. batteries may not be totally isolated. Things like LP detectors are wired directly to the battery, and are powered continually. Removing the negative battery cables is the only sure way to disconnect batteries.

Roger as always has excellent advice. I might offer an addition to his advice. Once you have the tire serial numbers go to the mfgrs website and register them. The website explains the benefits.

Topic discussed here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/cancellation-of-tcs-cards-accounts-596733.html

Hydraulic or electric slide mechanism? Brand/ model?

Hello Bill, Sorry to read of your jack problem. Is the brand HWH? If so this will help your accurately identify the model of your leveling system. When you know your model # simply run a search for the service manual for that model. HWH includes a troubleshooting section in every service manual. From what you've described the shuttle valve has stopped working. It moves between two positions to either allow oil to flow back into the reservoir or the other position allows pressurized oil to extend jack cylinders. It's all in the service manual)

Have you considered designing your own table-top, buying a chrome leg and using this portable stand: https://www.rvandvansurplus.com/Tripod-Folding-Table-Base_p_127.html Then these for custom vans are available: https://www.rvandvansurplus.com/Wood-Drink-Trays_c_82.html Where there is a will, there is a way.

Cummins does have a "fix" for the ISX, the guy on irv2.com outlined it in one of his posts about 3 years ago. The fix was part of the $34K he spent for rebuilds. All I remember is it involved a new head design, can't remember the rest.

I agree with Bill. That bottom fitting appears to be cross-threaded, or an optical illusion in the picture. Once cross-threaded, plastic threads are difficult to correct, but possible. Teflon tape might help.

Right! There;'s a guy on irv2.com who has this engine in his MH. Last I read of his trials and tribulations, he was out-of-pocket $34,000 for 2 engine rebuilds, even after Cummins paid $10,000 on the first rebuild. The 650 HP version was only available in the MH version. The man explained in detail what happened to his ISX, both times. Even on the trucking forums, there are posts detailing semi-tractor ISX failures during the early models. Now the ISX engine MH version is limited to 600 HP I think. Cummins supposedly found the cause of the failures and made corrections.

Yup,; if electric is not available, just fully-charge them then remove the ground cables, the batteries will still have 3/4 charge after 6 months- providing they are in good condition now.

Bill is right,. blue locktite allows the screws to be removed. Do not use red locktite, the only way it comes loose with high heat- like 500°.

He said his leveling system is manual only, meaning your automatic system is not the same model. What is the make/model of your leveling system?

At $547.33 each, I believe I'd rebuild the present one. If a rebuild fails, then grab your credit card. FWIW, I fixed my dump valve by simply removing the compressed air intake line and adding a few drops of air tool oil. I guess it lubricated the O-rings and seals enough to stop the air leaking. (do not use motor oil)

No-one is going to twist your arm to purchase an emergency roadside assistance contract. It's solely your decision. I don't understand your misery loves company outlook. Buying an emergency roadside assistance contract is like buying a personal health insurance policy in that who you buy from and plan contents vary widely, and how much risk you are willing to assume. For instance, I've used my Good Sam ERS policy 2 times during this pandemic. For the two years the premium total was #360, the total expenses GS paid out was just under $3,000 for both wrecker services required. The first tow required two wreckers, a small one to tow our MH out of the CG, then a tandem axle wrecker to tow it 60 miles to Cummins Great Plains. Yes it was a long wait, the only wrecker service that was large enough to do the job was another 40 miles in the opposite direction of Cummins Great Plains.

I agree with Bill; If your differential is greater than what Cummins specifies, the CAC is not doing its job. The coolant radiator is not part of that system.

I used to cover our 40' 5er with a tarp, but you had to pick your battles. As the guys said, even a gentle breeze can easily get under the cover and pull you off the roof, and it happens so quickly by the time you realize what is happening it's almost too late. That's when I began covering the 5er when there was no wind, instead of when it was convenient for me. I was 68 the last time that happened. It caused me to re-think using a cover over the 5er. I called and had a 60'x40'x15' pole barn RV garage built the next spring. This year I'm 80, I still climb on the MH roof but without a parasail. As ernee alluded to, they are designed to be outside.

IMO any grinding noise is NOT normal. Is your Jeep equipped with a manual transfer case shifter or electric? DW used to have an old 1997 Jeep GC we towed, and the automatic transmission had to be in neutral to manually shift the transfer case to neutral/tow position or the gears would grind. Her 2017 has electronic transfer case shifting, it's never made a noise-yet. It has a pin-hole to shift into neutral that accepts a ball-point pen.

"Steering wheel cocked to the right". That indicates the thrust-angle(dog-tracking) is incorrect. Look it up. I had a total alignment performed on our MH, the thrust angle was out by 3/4". Afterwards our MH drove much better and fuel mileage slightly improved.

I would not hesitate to purchase a MH with a basement A/C again. Yes, new replacement units are still available. Our MH is in my signature, we've owned it since 2013. Our Colman-Mach 24,000btu heat pump has performed flawlessly since purchase. I suppose since our MH is white makes a difference. We've never had a problem with cooling, in any heat range. IMO what makes the most difference is replacing the household-type air filter(I immediately threw the green mesh away) frequently, otherwise dirt, animal hair, etc. pass through and mat-over the evaporator coil. That severely limits capacity and effectiveness.

First I've heard of this. Scammers are like flies, they're everywhere and annoying. IMO, that deposited check, might have cracked opened a back-door into their bank account. If I get anything unsolicited, I call the company directly and ask, or simply trash it.

fad, pg 287 of your owners manual has the "specific procedure".

I'll add this: https://campgrounds.rvlife.com/ It used to be rvparkreviews.com until rvlife bought the website. Here you may read what previous site renters have to say. A free trip router app is https://truckerpath.com/ designed for commercial trucks, however it only chooses routes safe for semi's, which means the route is safe for all MH sizes too.