rayin

Look at auto pin striping and see if you get an idea. I am thinking black gloss pin striping might look OK if you have a steady hand and good eye.

Yes, that's the plan so far. latest estimate is $13K. I spoke with the adjuster this morning. We're awaiting word from the body shop to take it to them.

If you have the skill set; I'd first check the ATS/ automatic transfer switch for voltage and proper functioning. What happens when you run the genset?

$6K is outrageous IMO. Look for a different shop. As to rebuilding your old untis, I suspect you'll find the expense is about the same as buying new labor ya know. This is an example of how much a roof unit costs: https://www.rvpartscountry.com/dometic-brisk-2-air-rv-ac-15000-top-unit-white.html Two complete new units for $1,623. If you have enough help you can replace the units yourself by downloading the instructions from https://bryantrv.com/docs.html#airconditioner

Questions; is the oil reservoir full when jacks are retracted? Is the oil clean and clear? BTW, NEVER use hydraulic oil in the HWH system. First comes HWH hydraulic basics then HWH system identification. For specific questions I recommend calling Stewarts Services, the largest HWH repair center outside the factory . You need your model # before calling.

Well, there is an upside to my front cap damage. The MH will be in the body shop for at least a month; with present diesel fuel prices, I'll be able to save enough money not buying fuel to pay all out-of-pocket expenses.

First we need; your camping style, do you need to be in a city with nearby shopping, etc. Those type answers will determine where to focus our recommendations. You may stay at an RV park in an "urban corrodor" ($1,300/month) or in the center between the ocean and gulf($600/month).

Jezz, and I thought $3,600 was a lot for the towing package in 2013. My local auto mechanic was also a Blue Ox installer, I bought everything + installation from him.

For the older P30, P32 chassis only(pre 2000); this is an unsorted collection of manuals, documentation, and misc. http://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/3731087061/p/1

DB get read for very heavy traffic in FL. When we came home it took me 7 hrs. to drive 250 miles on I 75.

FWIW, GM is rumored to have issued a stop-sales order on their heavy duty trucks, something to do with the Durmax and hydrolocking. https://washingtonnewspost.com/news/auto/gm-reportedly-issues-stop-sale-order-on-heavy-duty-trucks/

Welcome to the club Chris! Thank you for your dedication to our great nation.

i saw one guys installation years ago where he added tail/brake light bulbs in the OEM tail/brake light housing. They and their wiring were totally independent of the factory wiring.

Almost half the way down the page is a diagram showing how to connect 2 6V batteries to make 1 12V battery. http://manmrk.net/tutorials/RV/12voltSideofLifePart1.htm P.S. Next time take a picture of the cable connections and routing before removing anything. Been there done that_.

After the pothole incident a minor problem appeared. the air-powered step cover would extend but not retract. Today I deduced the retract 12V solenoid on the 3-way valve was not clicking. Drat, was it a bad solenoid on the valve? Then the KISS principle took over, I removed the rocker switch that controlled the cover and sure enough the retract wire had been disconnected by the jar. I pushed the wire connection back on and the step operates normally both directions. KISS hard at work_again, that took me 12 minutes.

AWW Bill, that takes all the fun out of the hunt. Mine has labeled circuit breakers instead of fuses.

Now is a waiting game, the body shop and adjuster are searching for good used cap sections and panels for our MH. Adjuster said my front cap was too smashed to repair. It makes the search more difficult when the Winnebago Ultimate Freedom was only made from 1999.5-2004.5, Between the Ultimate Freedom and Ultimate Advantage only 428 were produced. I'm about sick over this, I had nearly everything in tip top shape. I sure hope Wayne's experience repeats with me.

I recently read a post on a different forum about a guy changing the belt himself. He used duct tape to hold the new belt onto pulleys so he could then get underneath to use a breaker bar to hold the tensioner away enough to slip the belt on that idler pulley. BTW, you might find this informative about installing a new belt tensioner at the same time:: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8pQT3YZAwo

Call the main FMCA office number to see if that company is valid. I've never even heard of that company. I suggest contacting wholesalewarranties.com and Good Sam, reputable companes IMO. An exclusionary ESC is preferable, it names what is NOT covered, everything else is covered. I bought the optional gaskets and seals rider, otherwise if a gasket/seal fails, oil leaks out and ruins the component, any consequential damage is not covered.

Yes, This spring I stopped at one RV park on the way home, the clerk noticed my retired Army hat and said, " you get a 20% discount for being a veteran". Yaaa! I made sure I policed my site before we left.

The only downside is very minor, you lose your radio presets, takes all of 5 minutes to re-enter them. I've never noticed any difference in transmission shifting or engine performance. My disconnected battery bank is at 3/4 charge level next spring. Then again, my LA house battery bank is only 6 years old..

Is this the worlds largest weather vane?

Exactly! Intentionally raising the center of gravity is not a sound idea IMO. We don't know how much air pressure is normally registering on the gauges, that has it's own subset of questions.

I'm amazed that wood paneling is in such good condition, is it original? Apparently the coach has been well cared for over the years.

Thank you for that information Wayne! That would be great for us. Everything below the windshields must be repaired/replaced. I've not found any damage to the windshields or gaskets - yet. The Allison cast aluminum pan also struck that concrete apron while getting across the water-filled pothole. There is no ATF leakage or motor oil leakage, hopefully that remains the same. The pothole couldn't have been too deep or the rear wheels would''ve lost traction in the mud.