rayin

The air springs and air lines are the simple part of any air ride installation/generic so to speak; I suspect any brand system can be used to control them.

Following up on what Richard suggested; it would take a bit of work, but you might consider installing a Tee in the air line to the front air springs, then run a pressure hose to a manual pressure gauge in the cockpit. When this monitoring test is completed, remove the Tee and splice the line, or simply leave the Tee in place and cap the open port.

No DC or AC whatsoever right? I doubt a lightening strike would disable both at the same time, but with mother nature anything is possible. Is the main DC fuse downstream of the batteries passing voltage? Is voltage detected at the RV entrance for 120VAC? Approach it logically, begin at the power source and test every connection towards the end points until you locate "no power".

Just think, an rv repair shop would have charged you $135/hr+parts, environmental fee, shop supplies, state and local taxes; when they had time to diagnose, order parts, reschedule time to perform the repairs. You probably saved yourself several hundred dollars and 2-3 weeks in-shop time.

When adjusting ride height, it's best performed on a level surface of course. Driving onto wood planks(mine are 3 high 2X8's) is best to obtain room to work underneath. Herman, I wonder if this website will have the ride height specs for your chassis?https://www.monacocoach.com/chassis-questions

I ran a search for those terms, and apparently you are correct; although my pictures have some differences from a 1972 I found on the internet. The one in my pictures must be an earlier year than 1973. Thanks for identifying the mystery MH. BTW, that 1972 is still in use, with some deficiencies. While searching I also came across this website: Pictures of old motor homes.

Bill how do they dry camp and run air conditioners without running the genset all day? Inquiring minds want to know. robrandol, I think your ideal has merit. Drain lines can be held in place with Dicor non-leveling sealant, and the "J" channel would also work to make condensate go where you want. Where would we be if Einstein hadn't thought outside the box_.

Welcome! Did Fantastic say if a different remote (or ceiling unit) can have the frequency re-programmed? Off-topic, the roof lids have a lifetime warranty. Fantastic replaced one 3 years ago, I did have to pay $16 Fedex shipping.

Tim, we have friends full-timing in a 2007 Essex. They went full-time in 2011, they and the MH are still going strong. He added solar panels and eight 6V batteries on a special-made tray in the engine compartment (Spartan chassis) to compliment the 6 house batteries. Their only limitation is fresh water. Enjoy your new motor home!

Herman I spent an hour searching through my pictures. I finally found more on my old unused smart phone. Seeing these pictures reminded me of the wooden board-box on the roof, which also looks like an owner add-on, perhaps not.

Herman that's one MH. The rear portion appears to be made from wood covered with fiberglass, while the rest of the coach appears to be fiberglass, which makes me suspect it may be home-made. Wayne you may be correct, but the pictures I find on the internet are in so much better condition I can't really determine if they are the same. I lost many pictures when I was convinced to install a fresh copy of Windows 10 a year ago; worst part - I had no current image/ backup, and now those I have are all jumbled together in various folders, instead of in their respective folders. I returned to where that MH was parked but it is now gone, I may return this month for another look. The owner may have it in the restoration stages. I spotted a very old MH last year, but DW frowns on my "adventures" that cause delays.

The only identification on it I could find says "Chevrolet". The interior appears like from the 1950's. Sorry for the poor picture, I had better ones, but a fat-fingered galoot deleted them.

The gas valve is likely not recognizing the flame is present; usually the cause is a faulty flame sensor or corroded contacts where it attaches to the gas valve. It only operates on 3-4 millivolts, so any corrosion on the contacts can be enough resistance to prevent the tiny amount of electricity from transferring to the gas valve and circuit/control board If that fails, then it is time to spend money-sigh, a new flame sensor is rather inexpensive though, if the control board is tests good. The control board can also be tested but that is above my pay-grade. This article explains how to replace a control board, if yours does not pass testing.

Oddly enough, I turned on my Norcold 1200LRIM yesterday to make ice and insure there was no problems with either frig or ice-maker. I unplugged the MH from 120VAC last night to make sure the frig ran on LP OK. This morning I checked the frig and ice tray had water in it, and the eyebrow control board was flashing NOCO. Well since I'm basically a lazy guy, I tried the KISS principle first. I unplugged/replaced all accessible wiring plugs in plain view. Went inside and started the frig on LP, SUCCESS. Then I turned the frig off and cleaned the LP burner,(BTW mine is brass) which made a brighter, fuller flame from the slots. Our MH has not been used since Oct. 2018, natural corrosion had insulated one or more low voltage terminal connections. This is the stem type wire brush I used to clean the burner tube.

I agree Bill, that is what I must do at home with my Dish setup also; OTA channels will not be recognized by the Hopper but when I attach the OTA antenna cable directly to the TV they are recognized. When I asked the installer for the USB to coax adapter he grudgingly went his truck and got one, then said "are you sure you really want this?".

IMO. the only way for battery voltage to be 13.6 is to be on a battery charger. The voltage drop to 10.4 is normal when the starter is engaged; however you said the starter will not engage-only click. To me this means the cable from battery to starter may have very high resistance, which should be checked anyway during diagnosing this problem. Usually battery cables for gas engines is #6 which has a resistance of .4 ohms per foot.Then it may not be the cable, but instead the cable terminals causing the high resistance; your ohmmeter is your friend here. I am assuming you have already cleaned and tightened battery cable connections. What are the individual battery cell hydrometer readings, or lacking those, what are the results of the battery load test? This is me just thinking out loud, hope it is of some use.

https://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2018/10/1968-dodge-super-charger-concept-makes-its-sema-debut-with-1-000-horsepower-hellephant-crate.html

I agree Herman! Sounds like we both use the KISS principle when approaching a problem.

If you have 22.5" tires, there are several choices available that are less expensive than Michelin or Goodyear tires. Hankook, Sailun, Toyo, to name a few. For example, I had 6 new Sailun S637 275/70R22.5 load range H regional tires put on our MH, total cost was $1,360; that is close to what the other brands I mentioned cost.BTW. I've seen all those brands on the steer axle of semi-trucks, and many of us here have them on our RV. If you have 19.5" tires there aren't many choices but the expensive brands. As to your fridge, first go to bryantrv.com and download the service manual for your specific make and model. It has troubleshooting charts to help identify problems, and much more. The first step is to determine if the gas valve is actually getting LP, then if the gas valve is opening as designed. Bryant RV has manuals for virtually every appliance in your RV.

Brian I also have a slow air leak, it causes the rear to lose air even though it is a valve right behind my genset. I just have to find time to block up the frame, bleed off all air via manual tank drains, and remove the offending valve so it can be rebuilt or replaced. I realized what causes my front to drop; when I enter/exit the MH while in storage, the leveling valve attempts to maintain a level condition by trying to add air to the heavy side, which of course it cannot do when turned off. This just bleeds air out of the system and both sides drop as a result.

Re-read http://bacrallies.com/PDF/PDF Manuals/BIRD Diesel.pdf for the BIRD unit, the first and second paragraphs. Tell me where I am mixed up?

I don't think your MH has a BIRD for charging both batteries, but if it does have one, that is the first thing to test for proper operation, the BIRD is bypassed when the genset is running.

When desiring handling improvement, the first place to start is a total vehicle alignment-assuming tires fairly new and in good(worn evenly) condition. A competent alignment technician should closely inspect all the steering mechanism prior to performing the actual alignment, and replace worn parts-including shocks/struts first. Most any HDT repair shop will have a total alignment machine.

I cannot quote nor point to Indiana law that says only one ear may be covered by a headphone, but I remember learning that in driving school in 1958. I can see the logic in that, having both ears covered can mask emergency vehicle warning sounds. We have no difficulty talking (DP) inside, but backing into a site can be frustrating trying to talk, all the noise is back where the spotter is trying to communicate. Therefore we rely on standard hand signals, as long as I can see my spotter we are good. Even if it turn up the rear camera audio, all I can hear is engine and exhaust noise; same thing when using cell-phones, walkie talkies, etc. So you see, gas and diesel MH's have the same problem, except at opposite ends of the vehicle. As to a sound deadener and heat reflective material, check this out:https://www.amazon.com/Car-Insulation-Deadener-Automotive-Lightweight/dp/B016QUS1YE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=heat+reflective+engine+cover&qid=1556155097&s=gateway&sr=8-3 This type material is commonly used on auto/pickup under-hood installations, could use in a MH be much different?

A partially-filled tank will accumulate water due to condensation as the air in the tank heats and cools, which causes water to condense and settle to the tank bottom. The fuel polishing operation should have removed all water from the main tank, but some may remain in the fuel lines and fuel filters. Water can damage injectors if the filters cannot capture it all, which then allows water to reach the injectors. Moral - keep the tank full when in storage. If algae is in the tank/fuel system, a product like Biobor is required to rectify the issue. This usually requires multiple filter changes to capture the black gunk that remains in the fuel system. Have you changed fuel filters more than that one time? If not, I recommend doing so; then cut open the removed filter and inspect contents. If you see black goo, that is your problem.