rayin

The basement air conditioner is also a heat pump! If you wish, PM me and I'll send you links to removing, repairing, and re-installing your Coleman unit. It is basically built like a household unit with 2 compressors inside instead of 1, to make it a 24,000btu unit. Any Air conditioner repairman can service it once you have the links to the instructions for removal and re-installation. Some are saying the Coleman unit is no longer available -not true.

About 13 years ago we were driving SD 87 in our 1T dually(5er was parked at Custer), SD 87 has signage at each end(between SD89 and US385) warning of the Hood tunnel low clearance (10'). We were Northbound and got stopped in a backup about 1/4 mile from the tunnel. When we finally reached the tunnel we saw the reason for the backup. Now SD 87 is a narrow 2-lane highway, on the North side of the tunnel sat 2 40' DP's with towed. No place to turn around a1T dually let alone a MH, nearest driveway was about 3 miles behind them. Now how could anyone not see a 4'X8' plywood bright yellow sign at each end of that stretch of highway warning of low clearance? I kinda wished we had time to park somewhere and watch the proceedings, but SD state police were busy blocking both ends at the signs by the time we reached 385.

Carl, I have never gotten that impression. I don't care about anyone's politics, just exchanging information about RVing.

TruckerPath is a phone app that will routes suitable for HDT's, it has many options for what to display, like rest areas, truck stops, WalMarts, weigh stations, alternate routes, and many more .

FWIW, over 80% of all 12v issues are the result of a poor or missing ground. Given the complexity of RV 12V systems, that is often quite difficult to correct.

Shop around, call wholesalewarranties.com and others, and request a quote. This is and independent agent who has access to multiple ESC providers. For accuracy purposes, these are NOT extended warranties. They are extended service contracts, with requirements and conditions that must be met to file a successful claim.

IMO, The best explanation of how TT works is here: http://ddwt.us/index.htm

That price comparison recommendation used to be stated on the FMCA Michelin tire program page, it's no longer there that I can find.

Thank you very much! my download speed,as measured by my provider, is 14kb/second, and that''s not dial up, it's DSL.🤢

RV salvage and surplus yards may be an option.Colaws advertises they are the largest in the U.S.A. Then again; this Kelsey-Hayes 310 model says it fits GM models.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelsey-Hayes-310-ABS-Module-96-2002-Chevy-Blazer-S10-GMC-Sonoma-Jimmy/202540022600?hash=item2f28537b48:g:WnkAAOSwGqxbG~G2:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr Some sources say the K-H 310 w/same casting# is the same regardless of the vehicle it came from, and it is not re-build-able. Another possible source: https://truckpartsinventory.com/abs-control-modules-kelsey-hayes-parts

The condensate from 90+ efficient household furnaces is corrosive, seen it first-hand from an American Standard Freedom 90 unit. I had a brass-end garden hose draining away condensate. I began to notice water on the basement floor, investigated and discovered the condensate had eaten completely through the brass where it transitioned from hose crimp to threaded end; replaced it with plastic hose-end. The majority of older RV furnaces are about 65-70% efficient. Since they are side-vented, and have an exhaust pipe about 12" long, there is little time for condensate to drop out of exhaust gas when the combustion-air fan is running properly.

Wasn't me ☝️

In my humble opinion the torque converter is slipping. I suggest NOT using overdrive until it is repaired ASAP, as every time it slips, tiny metal particles can be introduced into the trans oil, which are then pumped throughout the transmission valve body if/when the tranny filter does not capture every bit of metal.

Start with the lowest cost items to replace, I would replace the ignition switch before diving into expensive diagnostic tests. I know I need to replace mine(I can remove the key in any position), once a year the gauges will swing from operational to pegged to the max., and the engine stops for perhaps 1 second the resumes running. I pull over, turn of the key and wait a minute, restart the engine and everything is normal again for many months.

A missing or poor ground accounts for over 80% of all 12V problems. To check, temporarily run a 14G wire directly from the chassis neg battery post to the washer frame/mount. Have you double-checked to insure 12V is actually getting to the motor? That may be accomplished with a probe-equipped 12V tester when the washer switch is activated.

I was thinking about hot/burned galvanizing (zinc coating); it produces toxic fumes when heated beyond a certain degree F. Nope never heard of anyone using a stock tank for a firepit before.

I've seen several people using these, most are tubs from top-loading washing machines; many are made from SST, the enameled ones do not work well for fire pits.

Our AWD 2014 MKX sedan with twin-turbo V6 towed easily. The 2WD was not approved for flat-towing. DW decided it had too much power, so "we" traded it for a Jeep GC limited.

I arrived home from a short TDY trip to Ft, Dix NJ one year (driving our customized 1T Chevy van). Next day I was cleaning the van and noticed something in a mud flap, an 8" screwdriver! I had unknowingly ran over it somewhere. The mud flap and a slight divot in the RR tire was the only damage; but I did have another good screwdriver.😉

Your explanation matches what the narrator in the video explains. Watch and listen to it again. The recommendation to briefly press the accelerator further states little speed increase will be noticed, which is about the same as your CC maintaining speed for those few seconds it took you to turn it off. BTW, I always drive with both hands on the wheel, whether it's our MH, pickup, DW's Jeep or my farm tractors JIC the unexpected happens.

That's why I said "I suspect". Five had his CC on, I was speculating it did the same thing as the video saying briefly accelerate. No, never had a flat or tire failure on a MH. Had a steer tire blow on the 10T dump truck I was driving,(manual steering) hauling block Brazil coal, which offers a clue as to how long ago it was. No seat belts back then either, it took everything I had to hold the wheel straight.

re: fan cover lids. If you have Fantastic Fans 800-521-0298, the cover lid has a lifetime warranty. I had one that cracked, phoned them to buy a replacement, the woman who answered told me about the warranty, took my shipping info, model and serial #, and said she would have one shipped to me. Fed Ex cost was $16 and I received it 2 days later. Gotta call again, another lid has now cracked.

Historic Route 66/Will Rogers Highway is in our plans for a wide loop of the U.S.A. this coming summer. This is in my opinion the most complete website for Historic Route 66 I've found on the web. We have driven portions of 66 in AZ, Gallup, Holbrook, Winslow, etc., but never the entire remaining roads.

FIVE, I suspect your cruise control accomplished what the Michelin video tries to get across when they say to accelerate when we detect a tire failure; to keep the driver from applying the brakes. This short amount of time accelerating(not very fast when driving a brick) allows the driver to maintain control before suddenly applying the brakes and losing control from to the sudden side pull due to the flat tires added rolling resistance then adding brake pull. The Michelin video seemingly is not concerned with Vehicle damage, only maintaining control.

Depending on your individual settings, the RV GPS should not route you where there are weight limits, heights, widths, lengths that your RV will exceed.