rayin

Re-read the link I provided; it is a two-stage, automatic changeover regulator.

We purchased this MH from a man who had stored it in his barn for 8 years due to illness (on consignment). We figured things would break and fail after sitting all that time, and bought a 3 yr inclusionary ESC.w/ gaskets and seal rider. It paid for itself during the contract period, including deductibles. Now on a different RVing forum, a man had had his Cummins 650HP engine drop the valves in #6 cylinder. The total repair bill was $30,000, he did not have an ESC. Without the gaskets and seals rider, everything that happens due to a failed gasket or seal is NOT covered, it's called consequential damage.

ISPJS, I really like your signature quote, it is an exact fit to today's political shenanigans. Keep the snakes around, they will control the mouse problem, just look before you step out the door.

Read this description of a 2 stage regulator: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Marshall-2-Stage-Automatic-Changeover-Regulator-p/66-9377.htm " Cylinder Exchange: Prior to removing the empty cylinder, position the black changeover lever so that it points to the alternate cylinder that is now supplying the regulator. Close the valve on the empty cylinder and remove. After the empty cylinder is refilled and reconnected, slowly open the cylinder valve. The new cylinder is now the reserve cylinder. The indicator at the top of the regulator will turn green." This is the regulator that came OEM for our last 5er w/ 2 30# cylinders. I followed the directions and never had a leak when the empty was removed - IF i had the black lever in the correct position.

I suspect the pump valve head is faulty or clogged. Replacement parts are widely available.

One of the ramifications of not subscribing to posts one makes is forgetting all about where and when you posted. Bill, when we were shopping for a MH, we looked at a 1999 Panther, the interior was all cedar wood, and it was powered by a 525HP C15. Talked with my son-in-law who is maintenance supervisor for a coast to coast trucking company. He said it was a good engine, but I would be disappointed in mileage, to expect 6 mpg at most. We didn't buy it because of a long-term water leak just aft of the entry door.

Well, if the OP hasn' t got rid of the mice in the last 8 years since their original question, nothing will. For those using home-remedies, read this: https://www.jcehrlich.com/mice/myth-busting-natural-mice-repellents/

I agree, the best was asked for, and Lithium is the best.

I read the post as asking where to pull power from to install a curb-side outlet/receptacle. Clarification is badly needed.

You want other options; check out Happy Camper discount club. It's also a 50% discount club, and nearly exactly like PPA. Of course there is always Thousand Trails, and other similar organizations. FMCA, Escapees, Good Sam, etc are all 10% discount. ALL discounts come with some restrictions, even Thousand Trails.

And those 2 replies are the end of the story, nothing left to know.

Everything except our MH is insured through Indiana Farm Bureau Ins. Their rates for our MH were excessive( near $2,000/.yr), so I stayed with Winnebago Ins.( AMCO Insurance Co)through Farm & City Insurance Services of Forest City IA. @$730/yr.

This is a off-the-wall direction, but this is what happened to our MH. We stopped at a rest area for lunch. When I attempted to leave, every time I put the Allison in gear the engine died, and I lost all 12VDC to the cockpit. I would wait 15 minutes and regained electric power. Start engine, put into gear, engine dies-lost 12V to cockpit. This turned out to be from a loose connection( 1/2" nuts) on the outside of the firewall, at the port-side upper area where there are heavy positive and negative cables secured to the firewall, which supply 12VDC to the cockpit area. That said, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground. This probably has nothing to do with your problems, but it hopefully offers some insight into other possible solutions.

Would you clarify this in detail? I read your post to mean the travel light on the control panel will not remain lit while driving; OR you get a jacks down alarm while driving. If this is the condition, once the travel light comes on, wait a minute, before turning the panel off. It should not be left on while driving. Do you have HWH slide-outs? That makes a difference in downloading the proper owners manual from HWH.

The grab-handle on our MH didn't light up one day. I took the bottom handle end off, then the clear plastic "ultimate" tube off. The lights were multiple sub-miniature incandescents on a strip. The only thing wrong was corrosion on the strip terminals where it plugged into the wiring. Let me know when there is nothing more to repair, replace, or adjust in/on your MH, I'll throw you a party-if we're still able to drive the MH's.

Prior to spending money, disassemble the ATS and clean the contacts.(smoother the better) They are not designed to switch when under a heavy load, doing so can burn them due to arcing. If this doesn't work,, the only thing you lost is time. Then you may begin spending money.

A tire cage is required by OSHA here in the states. Back when i was in high school, working at a Goodyear tire store/shop; a man lost his right hand when a tire failed while he was inflating it - in a cage. Had he not been using the pipe cage he likely would have been killed. The shop foreman forbid me to inflate truck tires. The rules say to use a cage if the present truck tire pressure is below 60 psi.

Me too. Last time someone said that to me, it was door-to-door salesman. He said he was "here to help me save money". I replied, " Great! I'm saving $100 a week now, how much more can I save when you help me?" The man simply turned and walked away, stammering all the way to his car.

Thanks Herman, I apologize to David for stealing his thread. Now back to regular programming. I'm keeping my fingers crossed I didn't miss anything when I winterized. The filtered water line from under the sink to the ice maker solenoid concerns me some, there is no way to drain it since it is ran under the floor from filter to solenoid.

Thank you everyone. My wife is probably as recovered as she'll ever get after two and 1/2 years since the auto wreck. A traumatic brain injury at 70 is difficult to overcome, plus the physical injuries, resulting surgeries, rehab, etc,; she has/is trying very hard to regain what she lost. My job(76) is support staff and caregiver when needed at this stage of life. I've taken her South the past 2 winters, even though she really didn't feel like or wanted to go. My thinking was the time away from home, change of scenery, being with old friends, etc. would be good therapy for her. This fall/winter is different; I feel we should stay home in consideration of what she wants in lieu of what I felt was best. Just traveling in the MH 200 miles a day, wears her out just being a passenger. I took 5 days to travel from Indianapolis to Ft. Myers Beach last year, when we arrived she was crying and wanting to go home. I'm at the stage where I feel making a decision to sell the MH is on the horizon, sad, but reality. Sorry for blurting out like this.

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I winterized our MH Saturday, it's been so long since I winterized I forgot how. Took me 4 hours and a checklist to insure I got it right, but due to DW's condition we must stay home this winter.

Also, check in the classifieds in the new issue of the FMCA magazine. A professional driver has an ad there for transporting RV''s.

Unless you're set on Michelin tires, FMCA is woking with Hankook to establish the same program with them, = less money spent.