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There are some who advertise in the FMCA magazine.

How not to back your boat into the lake https://www.12newsnow.com/article/sports/dog-puts-fishermans-rv-in-reverse-backs-it-into-lake-sam-rayburn/502-6b77c26f-bfe4-430d-8bf5-22b94b18dd6a

That's a sure bet, we stayed in some in CA and AK that were 15A, (take spare adapters, I left one behind) and one with no power to the 15A receptacles,+ the water lines had frozen-not yet repaired. The 08 recession killed many business's in CA too. Since the latest Milepost information is always 1 yr old, we learned to call ahead for a specific stop. For whoever posted about it-re: true 240VAC /50A receptacles. They are capable of 100A total output under perfect conditions-as Wayne said, which in the real world is very unlikely to happen.

Whoever the advertising person was who wrote that webpage made several errors, perhaps the most glaring is the picture showing greasing a bushing through a zerk fitting. Above it they state rubber bushings not require greasing. Where did the zerk fitting come from"?

And another good reason NOT to bundle.

This is a normal flow diagram of an absorption refrigerator: Unless you have repeatedly operated your frig outside its operating limits, you will not experience what some refer to as gelling/plugging. It is cumulative; this is what happens when the frig is repeatedly ran outside those limits:" Continued operation in an over-heated condition results in cooling unit blockage whereby the rust inhibitor becomes crystallized and blocks sections of the internal tubing in the boiler. Unfortunately, this process cannot be reversed." This quote copied from The RV Doctor website BTW, I doubt the above is your problem. The picture explains what happens when the frig is level, when out-of-level you can visualize why the unit over-heats.(flow is stopped/inhibited)

As I said, i block the bottom intake vent, works every time for me and many others. Anyway, The Norcold Guy says the same thing except he uses the upper vent, with a caution to remember to remove the blockage from the upper vent because it cannot be seen from the ground. He does have a disclaimer for that reason, avoid liability if an owner fails to remove the upper vent blockage when warm weather arrives. As to "gell blocking flow"; the only way that happens is when the owner operates their absorption refrigerator out-of-level enough times to create the blockage. A side effect of cold weather RVing is, the ice maker water supply line and water valve may freeze if the heater wire that's taped to it is not working. The above solution also remedies the ice maker water supply issue.

FHU RV parks will be fully-booked, but phone ahead for late cancellations. If you are agreeable to camping with only water and electric for 2 weeks, there are several state parks (w/dump stations) along the SW gulf coast. http://www.floridaparks.com/floridastateparks/south_west/areafortmyers.html They are in a reservation system, which means calling ahead for them too, and will be the lowest cost vs commercial" RV Resorts."

EDITED to correct my error of safe operating limits, I apologize- I had them reversed. REF:pg 32 of service manual. A quick N dirty fix is to raise the opposite side from that slide just enough so water cannot flow into the seals. The safe operating limits for the frig being level is 6° front to back, and 3°side -to side, as looking at the frig door. When you convert that to inches per foot you realize how much out of level the coach will be, the rule of thumb is, if you are comfortable living.cooking, and sleeping in the MH it is likely within those degrees of safety for the frig.

FYI, heat pumps do not work well below approx. 40-45°F outside temperature, depending on % humidity.

The only reason absorption refrigerators have a chimney behind them is to exhaust excess heat. Keeping that in mind, this is the usual remedy for your problem. First make sure the insulation surrounding the heating elements fully-encloses the heat tube/LP gas chimney. The solution to this issue is to block off the bottom outside vent (incoming air), or place a trouble light below the cooling unit as necessary to allow sufficient heat build-up to boil the solution so it turns into a gaseous state. Refrigerator cooling will not occur until that happens. Absorption cooling unit explained

I'll throw in the way my Xantrex RS2000 equalize works. Both battery banks are connected for charging via a BIRD relay. I set the inverter/charger to equalize via the display panel, it asks " are you sure?", I affirm the equalize. Everything is automatic from that point. It first insures the batteries are at 100% charge, the goes to equalize mode and tests the batteries for actually needing the equalize. Sometimes it completes a complete cycle sometimes only 1 hr, once in a while it says equalizing not needed and terminates the process. Point is, all batteries are included in the process unless the BIRD automatically disconnects the two banks.

There is an entire line of "Goop" type products,, each has a specific name for intended use.http://eclecticproducts.com/products/ The word 'Goo" is not patented, thus several different companies use that: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Goo+products&t=ffnt&ia=web

👍I did that too, used two 2" strips. There is one downside, if you do not place the egg correctly the first time you have work to do(don't ask); upsides are; no extra holes in end caps, is semi-permanently mounted, egg may be placed anywhere you wish.

I don't have this problem, as Cummins engines have an electric lift pump. My old Duramax had a primer bulb atop the filter housing. When changing the fuel filters on Dad's old Detroit engine, he always had a quart bottle of kerosene sitting around. Five gallon can of kerosene was kept around for the kerosene torpedo heater in the workshop and for the tractors in cold weather, so filling a quart bottle was easy. As soon as the engine fired and oil pressure registered the the engine was set to 1,500 RPM until it smoothed out so we were sure the fuel system was purged of air. I have added that siphon pump to my Amazon cart though, JIC I run out of lawn mower gas again, my pickup/towed is parked right beside the mower.

Speaking from experience,(we were there 2014) inspect Google maps for access to the French Quarter RV resort before getting to NOLA. My GPS did not identify the turn correctly. I had to go around the 2-block area 2X to get it right. The entrance is designed on an angle, making entry and departure a one-way affair for 40' and over MH's W/towed. When we were there, there were also 14 Marathon Prevosts there for a rally. A washing/waxing company was there for a week working on all 14 MH's. We also walked to the FQ each day, at night we took a cab back to the MH, not because we were worried about violence, we were simply too tired to walk home. Oh, check the Saints game schedule, the RV resort is booked a year in advance for home games.

The Garmin GPS runs and recharges from 12VDC anyway,120VAC not required. That only leaves your mobley requiring 120VAC; which is an insignificant load for your inverter.

The normal cause of aluminum corrosion is water intrusion, which results in galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact and get wet. https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

FWIW, Fantastic Fan(8005210298) has a lifetime warranty on their vent covers. They sent me one under warranty, FedeX shipping was $16 though.

Go HERE, then click on his links-W/pictures showing exactly how he removed, repaired, replaced his Coleman-Mach basement air conditioner. He is the ultimate authority IMO for these basement units. He's helped many owners with their units, and has a long list of where and how to obtain replacement and upgraded parts. The only thing different, as I said, is this unit has 2 120VAC compressors inside, where standard household units have 1 large 240VAC compressor. I have several links to parts from Bill's website,and even new OEM units are available, if you need my links. Duner's information should be all you need though. FWIW, I have a basement unit, it keeps our MH(see sig) very comfortable in winter and summer, regardless of our location. (hope that doesn't jink me)

We've stayed at several CG's that are hard-wired without a breaker/disconnect, many CG's in the Maritimes were. When I see one I go inside the MH and throw the main breaker before plugging into those receptacles. I don't know it really helps, but it can't do any harm.

The basement air conditioner is also a heat pump! If you wish, PM me and I'll send you links to removing, repairing, and re-installing your Coleman unit. It is basically built like a household unit with 2 compressors inside instead of 1, to make it a 24,000btu unit. Any Air conditioner repairman can service it once you have the links to the instructions for removal and re-installation. Some are saying the Coleman unit is no longer available -not true.

About 13 years ago we were driving SD 87 in our 1T dually(5er was parked at Custer), SD 87 has signage at each end(between SD89 and US385) warning of the Hood tunnel low clearance (10'). We were Northbound and got stopped in a backup about 1/4 mile from the tunnel. When we finally reached the tunnel we saw the reason for the backup. Now SD 87 is a narrow 2-lane highway, on the North side of the tunnel sat 2 40' DP's with towed. No place to turn around a1T dually let alone a MH, nearest driveway was about 3 miles behind them. Now how could anyone not see a 4'X8' plywood bright yellow sign at each end of that stretch of highway warning of low clearance? I kinda wished we had time to park somewhere and watch the proceedings, but SD state police were busy blocking both ends at the signs by the time we reached 385.

Carl, I have never gotten that impression. I don't care about anyone's politics, just exchanging information about RVing.

TruckerPath is a phone app that will routes suitable for HDT's, it has many options for what to display, like rest areas, truck stops, WalMarts, weigh stations, alternate routes, and many more .