rayin

Thanks for the update, that video is interesting and reminds me of my old Garmin that got squashed and broke the screen. The person in the video complained about the lack of choices to choose his screen vehicle. He must use the My Garmin link to download more choices, same for the Garmin voice; I'm assuming Garmin still supports those features. When mine broke I bought a Rand McNally 7730 instead, still not sure if that was a good choice.

But_but, the GPS shows you can, it's even a straight line there. If you really prefer to take a boat, check this out https://uncrate.com/xsmg-xsr48-speedboat/

Carl the 5er was the last time we visited LV, so yes it was the last commercial wash. I've always washed our MH myself because I'm retired now.

ISPJS, after searching the internet for similar problems, I must admit I may have jumped to a conclusion and stuck with it despite your confidence it was a Pilot supplier fuel problem. Contaminated fuel is apparently not limited to Pilot, as these numerous search results reveal, using just one set of search parameters. Aircraft JP fuel sample 1/2 water after crash, is one that stands out. Another incident was jet fuel contaminated with DEF, jets do not use DEF.

This same subject by the same author is ongoing on irv2.com. I think if this was an error by Pilot we would be reading something about it by now. All we have now is 2nd hand information = hearsay.

👍 It's easy to forget Kwikee says to lubricate the steps monthly. Brianreed; Since they are triggered by high resistance, if/when they bind from lack of lubrication, the motor controller shuts off power to the motor.

There are truck washing places besides Blue Beacon. We stopped at one on the South side of Las Vegas. I asked about washing our 5er and would they please not use a power washer. They used their soap N water with long-handled brushes which looked like they were 2' wide , the rinse was garden hoses with a wide spray nozzle.

I apologize, I didn't realize you are actually the thread starter- haeffe and have changed your screen name. What was the outcome of your original issue?

huffypuff, The Fridge Defend/ARP unit will shut off all power if the boiler temperature rises above it's fail-safe temperature setting; then resume power when the boiler temperature drops below that setting automatically. As designed the boiler temperature can exceed 380°F., the Fridge Defend setting is below half that, mine now stays about 189° with the additional blower-type fan running.I had to lower/back off my Norcold temperature setting by 2 because it was freezing the milk.

Huffypuff that's my fault for posting in a 7 yr old thread that has now no useful purpose..

I"m not Brett, however his reply is accurate, breakers protect the circuit, GFCI protects you from electrical death.

After reading this entire thread, and no subsequent posts from the thread starter haeffe since 2015, I'm now thinking he was merely stirring the pot with false allegations.

A friend lived a few miles North of Van, TX. He really liked the area, however it's not close to shopping. My first visit, I was surprised to see an oil well in the front yard of the church.

It''s my understanding this 'death wobble" thing only happens to Jeep products with electric power steering, if yours has hydraulic power steering that wobble does not happen.

Today's clearcoat lasts much better than it did a few decades ago. I just keep our MH washed and touch-up paint dings and scratches as necessary, however our MH is always garaged when we are home.

I had to have a HDT repair shop do the work, a 76 yr old man with COPD has no business standing on his head attempting to remove and replace anything, especially when you can't even see the bottom manifold bolts. 😞 The mechanic had to remove both pieces of the manifold and remove one with the turbo attached, then use a torch to heat the turbo bolts so they would't break, 2 manifold bolts did, which contributed to the total repair cost @$135/hr. I had removed the entire bed framework and covered the carpeting with wall-to-wall carpet protector film for ease of access. Shop owner said I was the only one to ever have that consideration for the mechanic. It was really the MH and bill that concerned me.

The Cummins ISC engine is known for cracked/broken exhaust manifolds. Remove the engine cover in the rear(bedroom) of the coach, use a flashlight to inspect the exhaust manifold and turbocharger where it mounts onto the manifold for black streaks, which is a telltale sign of an exhaust leak, and obvious cracks in the manifold. I had my broken manifold replaced last August, total bill was $3,1xx dollars. The new style Cummins manifold is heavier and thicker, as the entire weight of the turbocharger and associated piping is supported by the manifold. I haven't noticed any mileage change, but the increase in power is obvious.

Hydrogen peroxide for disinfecting an RV fresh water tank: "There is much rumor and myth in the RV world that you can disinfect a fresh water tank using hydrogen peroxide (the stuff you can buy off-the-shelf at the store). The bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide that you likely have in your RV or house won’t do the job—it is not a strong enough solution. Even if you could fill the fresh water tank with the 3% hydrogen peroxide, it wouldn’t do the disinfecting job you need. The higher concentrate required to complete the disinfectant is only sold to authorized recipients—chemical companies, school systems, industry, etc.—and is only available at chemical-supply houses. That concentrate may be as high as 50%—significantly stronger than the off-the-shelf bottle available at your local store. Plus, when using the highly-concentrated solution, there is a specific process required to neutralize the level of hydrogen peroxide after disinfecting to make the tank safe for normal usage. I won’t go into that process here."

X2!

Re-read the link I provided; it is a two-stage, automatic changeover regulator.

We purchased this MH from a man who had stored it in his barn for 8 years due to illness (on consignment). We figured things would break and fail after sitting all that time, and bought a 3 yr inclusionary ESC.w/ gaskets and seal rider. It paid for itself during the contract period, including deductibles. Now on a different RVing forum, a man had had his Cummins 650HP engine drop the valves in #6 cylinder. The total repair bill was $30,000, he did not have an ESC. Without the gaskets and seals rider, everything that happens due to a failed gasket or seal is NOT covered, it's called consequential damage.

ISPJS, I really like your signature quote, it is an exact fit to today's political shenanigans. Keep the snakes around, they will control the mouse problem, just look before you step out the door.

Read this description of a 2 stage regulator: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Marshall-2-Stage-Automatic-Changeover-Regulator-p/66-9377.htm " Cylinder Exchange: Prior to removing the empty cylinder, position the black changeover lever so that it points to the alternate cylinder that is now supplying the regulator. Close the valve on the empty cylinder and remove. After the empty cylinder is refilled and reconnected, slowly open the cylinder valve. The new cylinder is now the reserve cylinder. The indicator at the top of the regulator will turn green." This is the regulator that came OEM for our last 5er w/ 2 30# cylinders. I followed the directions and never had a leak when the empty was removed - IF i had the black lever in the correct position.

I suspect the pump valve head is faulty or clogged. Replacement parts are widely available.

One of the ramifications of not subscribing to posts one makes is forgetting all about where and when you posted. Bill, when we were shopping for a MH, we looked at a 1999 Panther, the interior was all cedar wood, and it was powered by a 525HP C15. Talked with my son-in-law who is maintenance supervisor for a coast to coast trucking company. He said it was a good engine, but I would be disappointed in mileage, to expect 6 mpg at most. We didn't buy it because of a long-term water leak just aft of the entry door.