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Found 12 results

  1. We have a 2012 RS Adventurous ... I'm thinking about upgrading the standard gauges that are merely "estimates" even according to Roadtrek, the manufacturer..YES, I called them and they confirmed that the gauges were NOT accurate.... SO, I'm thinking of getting See Level gauges.. that ARE supposed to be ACCURATE... Have any of you had experience with See Level gauges?? Please respond....
  2. I am a two week old Rver and as much I appreciate advice from all my new friends, I am confused about the signs on the road about "Hazardous Material Vehicles", "Tunnels" and my responsibilities or duties as a driver. Driving my new rig from Florida to Torrance, California has giving me more experience, but as I was driving in Alabama and Arizona, I encounter a "Tunnel" and "A hazardous Material zone" which in both cases I panicked and took the detour. Some of you are probably laughing by now, but when you are new and dealing with size, weight and length of your new toy and your wife as the co-pilot, it is simply "terrifying" to say the least. I heard so far: (1) Check your local law. (2) Call DOT (lol). (3) This rule does not apply to us (RV's). (4) We don't carry enough propane to make it dangerous or illegal (5) Just watch for the tunnel clearance, that's all. (6) Turn of the propane. Can someone, please provide reading materials or provide me with an answer that will help us be safe on the road? Thank you, Phil & Cindy Benonguia
  3. Generator

    I have a propane 7CC Kohler generator that will start but once the starter button is released, it stops. I've checked several things and want to find the Low Oil Pressure switch. Does anyone know where it is? The diagram does not show which side of the generator the switch is located. Any other suggestions/comments. Can't seem to find anyone that will look at a kohler generator. Thanks Allan
  4. The flame in my Atwood water heater in my 2004 Minnie Winnie fails to burn with a constant burn. Instead it goes 'pfft' and won't heat the water properly.
  5. Still learning about our 2010 43QGP Allegro Bus. I appreciate the help and support, as well as tolerance for my many questions. We have a two burner propane stove. Its the only propane device in the unit. The left side works fine. Strong, blue flame. The right side will light, but goes out immediately when I release the knob. While its lit the flame is strong and blue. I've held the switch in for up to a minute. The automatic lighter clicks the whole time. Camping world tech (Gee, hope this one spark another toilet paper war ) told me the burner was dirty and needed cleaned. Does that make sense to folks? Seems more like a thermal coupler issue, but not sure if these units have those installed. If folks agree that cleaning can help is there a good youtube video on the procedure ?
  6. I have a 1996 Beaver Patriot with a 40 gallon propane tank mounted just behind the front tires. It provides propane to the Onan generator and to the coach refrigerator, stove, furnace and hot water heater all of which work well and have been well maintained. I have noticed a very faint smell of propane when I first open the service door to the tank where the valves, regulator and gauge are located. The smell dissipates rapidly once the door is open and often I am the only one who can detect the odor. I have checked connections and used leak detector (bubble fluid) and can find no leak. A visible inspection of the tank reveals no problems though because of the undercarriage mount I can not clearly see every square inch. I have never detected any odor in the coach, basement or at any of the appliance outside connections. Since the generator is seldom used I keep the liquid valve which supplies it turned off. Is this normal or do I have a problem? Thanks for any insight. Tom Newbie in an older coach.
  7. I'm getting ready to snowbird to Desert Hot Springs for a few months this winter. With the cost of propane down at about $2.00 a gallon I was wondering what it would cost to run the refrigerator off of propane compare to shore power. Shore power is 13.5 cents per amp hour and was costing me about $60 per month. The information I was able to look up so far is that the refrigerator is about 500 watts running on shore power. Someone has posted somewhere on the web a formula of calculating the break even point of kwh cost compare to cost of a gallon of propane but I can't seem to find it. The question is how long will a 12 cu feet refrigerator run on a gallon of propane. I figure that about half of the cost of shore power I used last year was for the refrigerator alone but I could be wrong. Does anyone know the calculation?
  8. I drive a 1994 Foretravel U-240. The Volta CO/Propane detector has started making a chirping sound, one chirp every +/- 45 seconds. This is an intermittent problem. Usually one of the lights (CO or Propane) illuminates when this occurs. This morning both lit up but eventually went off once the chirping stopped. This happened a few weeks ago while driving from the Sierras to the SF Bay Area. The propane does not shut off like it does during a full-blown alarm condition. I checked connections for all propane appliances and found no leaks after spraying with a soapy solution. I suspect that this hard-wired system is original to my coach. I cannot find any thing online regarding Volta Technologies other than a kit for sale on Ebay. I need suggestions for next steps. Thank you. Tom
  9. Heating--what would you do? I have begun living full time in my new (to me) Canyon Star 3856 Ford V10 gas. I work in the Tetons from late Apr to late Oct so the nights can get down in the low 30's during Apr and Oct. I am a little concerned about preventing my water pipes from freezing. I have 2 ac/HP and 2 propane furnaces. I am not sure if I can get propane delivered to my coach in the park. I have been looking into several things and was hoping to hear from some people with more experience than me (I have none). I was thinking of getting (2) of those little 200 watt heaters to put int he basement compartments near the tanks? These would be run off the site electric (something I am provided with for my employment). What do you think of this idea? Since the HP is not very good below 40 degrees, I was thinking of using space heaters in the coach and heating electrically. My options here that I am considering are: 1) Using the Dyson oblong/circle fan/heater--it is on sale at COSTCO, is very quiet, and I think if placed at the front of the coach by the driver area facing rear ward, it would heat the entire coach. On cold nights I could open the water cabinets to aid getting heat in there. 2) Using those oil filled old fashioned radiators to provide the heat. They are also quiet, cheaper than the Dyson (even if I buy two) but they would take up a bit more room. I was also looking at the Cheap Heat system I saw on one of the RV emails I get daily but I think I would have to install (by a professional) 2 of these since I have 2 furnaces. This would eliminate having to use propane, however, as good as this system sounds it may be way more than I can afford to spend between the cost of the parts and the extra labor charges for an RV professional to install. Anyone have this and what do you think? So, what would you do? Long post--I am sorry, but need your expert advice...or just your honest opinion. Thank you.
  10. As spring and warm weather approaches, this is again the time for a semiannual spike in carbon monoxide deaths and propane issues for RVers. This week at a KOA in Nashville, a couple was found dead in their RV by relatives who drove to the campground after not being able to reach them for several days. Carbon monoxide poisoning was the cause, said authorities, caused by a their propane burner. In Washington State the week before, a propane tank explosion inside an RV east of Lacey sent a couple who lived there to an area hospital with burns. The woman suffered second- and third-degree burns in the explosion. The man suffered minor burns. Fire officials said investigation indicated a leak in the propane tank that caused it to explode. And at a Walmart parking lot in Sikeston, Mo., a couple of weeks ago,there was a propane explosion inside a motorhome while people were inside the RV. The explosion blew out the side of the vehicle. One of the occupants told officers he was trying to light the stove to provide some heat because the inside of the RV was cold when the explosion occurred. They escaped with minor injuries but their motorhome was destroyed. These three recent incidents underscore the need to make sure your RV has a working carbon monoxide alarm and that you have inspected your propane tanks and plumbing. The propane system on an RV provides heat and hot water, power for the stove and refrigerator, and fuel for barbecue grills or other small appliances. There are two basic types of propane containers and systems: Department of Transportation (DOT) cylinders and American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) tanks. Travel trailers, folding camping trailers, and fifth-wheel units use two movable DOT cylinders, which are positioned vertically upright and mounted to the outside front or back of the RV. Motor homes use a single, permanently installed ASME tank, positioned horizontally, and located underneath the cabin, near the entryway. Regardless of container type, all refilling repair, or replacement must be done by certified service technicians. While you may do touchups to your RV from time to time, do not paint propane cylinders, valves, or mounting hardware. This may mask important service issues, affect valves, or result in system failure. Make sure your system is inspected at least annually by a certified service technician. They are trained to detect incorrect tank pressure, leaks, or other potential hazards, and address them properly. Do not connect your propane piping to another gas source or attempt to repair any propane-related component yourself. AmeriGas, a leading propane supplier, and the Propane Education and Research Council has issued some safety guidelines for RVers. Most RV refrigerators can keep food/beverages cold during several hours of travel without a power source. They strongly recommend that propane systems be turned off while driving. Other safety tips while traveling: Shut off propane supply valves, pilot lights, ignitors, and appliances, and have everybody exit the vehicle during refueling. Do not use range burners for heat, or any appliances for means other than their intended use. Extinguish all smoking materials any time you are near tanks, filling stations, or other equipment where gasoline or propane may be present. Turn off propane supply valves before entering tunnels or enclosed areas. Be sure to follow any postings around restricted areas, such as military bases. At the Campground: Open a window and turn on your exhaust fan when using your stove. Portable fuel-burning equipment including wood, charcoal, and propane grills and stoves should not be used inside the RV or near the entryway. The use of this equipment inside an RV can cause fires or carbon monoxide poisoning. Keep your vehicle a safe distance away from any heat source, such as grills or fire pits. Keep propane tanks and cylinders at least 10 feet away from heat sources. Any time you use portable propane appliances, such as generators or heaters, it’s important to provide for ventilation. Follow all appliance manufacturer safety instructions. If You Smell Gas: It is not “normal” for propane systems to leak. If you detect a leak—or sense a propane odor(rotten egg smell) — have it checked out immediately. Immediately put out all smoking materials, pilot lights, and other open flames. Do not operate lights, appliances, or cell phones. Flames or sparks from these sources can trigger an explosion or fire. If you are able to, safely turn off the gas supply valve on your cylinder or container. Open all doors and other ventilating openings. Immediately leave the area and call 911 or the local fire department. Before you restart or use any of your propane appliances, have a qualified service technician inspect your entire system.
  11. The other day I went to exercise my generator. (really went to get out of the heat in the RV with the A/C on ) Anyway, the propane detector went off. I am thinking it was because of the fumes from the generator, because I still had the door open and the fumes were coming up from under the coach. The RV is a little over 7 years old. I wonder if it's time to replace the propane detector and if so is it something that I could do myself or do I need to have it done at a licensed repair shop?
  12. Purchased new class A Dutch Star with Factory pickup. Had them install a propane line for gas grill connection from the unit built in tank. My prior unit had such a line, but it was high pressure off tank and used the regulator off the gas grill unit. Used an adapter hose to connect to the grill regulator having a typical 1lb disposable tank connection. The factory folks said by code they would have to install the line after the system regulator, which means low pressure. Now the grill won't work because (I think) the pressure is too low for the gas grill regulator to function. All my current hoses/connections need the gas grill regulator in place. Can I figure out how to eliminate the gas grill regulator and connect direct? Anyone know of a solution?