elkhartjim

I just re-read his post and you're right, macerator on the gray tank???? Funny!

My thoughts exactly, Carl. I've never read one post saying its easy to remove.

Time out is better that Xed out I guess.

If you've truly found a good way to remove the DS, why don't you save a lot of phone calling and just tell us. Plus, I don't have a clue as to what WIT is or how to get their number.

Key question, do you have 12V at the batteries? New batteries can go dead in a short time if there is any parasitic load.

I don't recommend ordering parts from them, Wayne. They would require me to come in and pay for the part because they would need to order it and I don't have an account and no, they wouldn't accept a credit card over the phone. They also would not give the FCOC discount on ordered parts. I called Freightliner in Gaffney, they shipped the part that day 40% less expensive than Freightliner Houston.

If you have a Freightliner chassis it could be the wiring harness for the LBCU. I'm not sure if you have a LBCU or VDU, but both can be problematic with low air alarms. The VDU problem originates from cold solder joints and the LBCU is due to the daisy chain wiring harness. If you don't have a Freightliner chassis, then the info is not relevant. There are DIY fixes for both problems. LBCU = Light Bar Control Unit VDU = Video Data Unit

That is why we are making the comments we're making. "anti-gravity".

A drip loop is one thing but as every plumber in the world will tell you, "it won't run up hill and payday is every Friday".

A 4 wheel drive Jeep can only be towed 4 down. It cannot be dollied.

I had the same experience with Freightliner-Houston. I found purchasing Freightliner parts from Freightliner in Gaffney to be very responsive and less expensive than any of the sources I contacted. Best of all, they understand what a motorhome is.

Thanks, Brett. I've always changed it at the end of the season. As I recall, the OP saw the comment on a social media site and we all know the reliability of some of those.

I've always debated with myself on when to do the annual oil/filter change. If I change it at the beginning of the season, March lets say, and by the end of December I begin to use it only occasionally until March comes around again, the engine is sitting there with all kinds of bad stuff in the oil that can't be doing the moving parts any good. As mentioned in Five's previous post, chemicals such as sulfuric acid may be in the oil. Well, that sure can't be good for the bearings, etc. Thoughts anyone?

Thanks for the response. I am a bit surprised about the "Good" way of engine exercising. Personally, I'll stick with the 30 day 25 miles drive format.

Did you tell them they can't join because they don't meet the demographics? They should be required to bring along three new members in the 35-45 age group.

Thanks, Brett. Now I'm really interested to hear his comments.

3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads: White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit. Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60 grit (The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)

Of course you need to maintain the water level as part of your maintenance program. I'm just relating my experience with my desulfators and others may have exactly the opposite experience. My experience with the previous coach using my desulfator; the house batteries were going on 7 years when I sold the coach. I used the desulfator twice a year. BTW, Herman, lead sulfation is a normal process during the charge/discharge process and occurs even when the plates are covered with electrolyte.

If you would provide your coach info you may find out you already have a desulfator in your charger. And yes, I have a desulfator built in to my charger and I've successfully used it. I also have another portable that I use on all my vehicles. My lawn tractor being one that I use to get one year on a battery and I'm going on 4 years now that I use the desulfator.

In my 2008 Bounder Diesel, I replaced the Norcold with the Samsung RF18. I used the ice maker plug for power, 2000W pure sign wave inverter, 4 - 6Volt wet cell batteries. Never had any power issues but always had hard ice cream. Lowes drivers unloaded the Norcold and set the Samsung in the Norcold opening for me all through the passage door. I gave them 20 bucks each. BTW...its currently on sale for $999 at Lowes.

Welcome to the world we live in. I find it interesting to take my $30,000 Jeep in to have the heads replaced under warranty, I get it back in 3 days. I take my motorhome in to get a light bulb changed and get it back in three weeks. We pay for PDI and then we do the QA on it. AND we let them get away with it but then like you kept saying, "but, no choice, right?".

If you're expecting an answer from the OP, it may be a while. This blog was posted March, 2014, and the OP hasn't signed in to FMCA since July, 2017.

Joe, you said you read about this on social media; my experience has been anything but reliable information comes from some social media sources. Elvis is alive and living on a tropical island was one of the latest posts I read. I'm anxious to hear what your source has to say, Brett.

Of course if its Made in America, probably will need one metric and one SAE.

Brett, I suggest making the discussion of engine starting a new thread. I think it may turn into a good discussion that many may possibly miss because this thread started as a discussion on air compressors, (tire air pumps). Just a thought. Thanks.