elkhartjim

Our service manager said that even after the adjuster inspects the MH it could be a month or more before he settle up with us. This must be different than auto insurance. When I had my shop, many times the adjuster would write a check and hand to the owner if he was there or it never took more than a few days for snail mail to get the check delivered. The insurance company wants to get it settled since they will be paying storage charges until its removed from Dues. Like I said, maybe motorhome insurance is different. BTW...if at all possible, be there when the adjuster is there. Most, if not all adjusters don't have a clue on costing out repairs on a motorhome. There are no computer programs like the estimating programs for cars. My experience has been the shop will tell the adjuster what its going to cost to repair and thats what they go by. Call me if you have any questions.

A friend and I spent two months trying to talk a mutual friend out of buying a motorhome, but nooooo. He bought a really nice used one and my friend and I went over it with him. It really was a nice pusher. They went on two camping trips and both he and his wife decided it wasn't for them. He got close to what he paid for it but lost the 6.25 sales tax plus it took him almost 4 months to sell it. Renting is expensive but losing $5 - 6000 will do a lot of renting.

Be cautious listening to Wayne. He has been known to give out bad information, just ask Herman.

Diesel was $2.169 @ Buc-ee's 2 days ago in Katy, TX Regular unleaded was $1.889 The price is up in the Texas because drivers caused a gas/fuel shortage by filling up every time they saw a station open. Basic economics - supply and demand. Oh....diesel at Loves Truck stop on same exit was $2.649

Lord help us all, especially those suffering from senility. Not to name names but his initials are WAYNE. I'm sorry Herman, Wayne most likely didn't take his meds yesterday.

So in the whole scheme of things if you go through a bunch of diesel in a month and spend an extra $30 to $50 does it really matter? Of course it does. $360 - $600/year equates to 10 - 20 free nights at a campground.

Just another one post poster. The thread has not been a total waste. Carl found out you can get a truckers atlas at a truck stop. There is a wealth of information on this forum and some of it is worth exactly what you pay for it.

I got mine at a truck stop.

I thought I would share the procedure Freightliner recommends for storage. Copied from the FCOC website. Preparing Your RV for Storage by Mike Cody, Sr. Service Trainer Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation Some of us are lucky enough to keep our RVs on the road all year long, but for many, fall means it’s time to put the motorhome away for a few months. As anyone who has ever left a lasagna in the freezer can tell you, it’s important to be thorough and thoughtful when preparing your RV for storage. This goes for your chassis as well. When storing your motorhome for an extended period of time — 60 days or more — these steps should be taken to give it maximum protection: Fill fuel tank and add a high-quality fuel stabilizer to the fuel (never store with a partially full tank of fuel). Change the engine oil and filter (used oil does not give adequate protection). Cooling system was originally protected with antifreeze to -34 degrees F. If colder temperatures are expected, adjust the mixture. If coolant has been in the vehicle for five years or 100,000 miles, flush the cooling system and fill with an appropriate mixture of antifreeze and softened water, and be sure that the coolant contains a rust inhibitor. If it has been more than 18 months or 24,000 miles since the transmission has been serviced, change the fluid and filter. Service the fuel filters. Run the engine until fully warmed up. Operate the air conditioning. If possible, store the vehicle in a dry, well-ventilated area, protected from sunlight. Check tires for damage and set tire pressure to maximum as indicated on the sidewall of the tire. Clean the tires using the normal, mild soap that you would use to clean your RV. If possible, raise the vehicle onto safety stands. Do not store the vehicle on the hydraulic leveling jacks. Hydraulic jacks will “bleed” pressure over time, lowering the coach back onto the tires. Cover tires to protect from heat and sunlight. If possible, release the parking brake. Remove and clean the battery. Always disconnect the negative (-) cable first. Store the battery in a cool, dry place and keep it charged. Lubricate all grease fittings on the chassis and drivetrain. Cover all engine and transmission openings with moisture-resistant tape. Depending on the make and model of your motorhome, there will certainly be additional items for your checklist. Be sure to reference your owner’s manual for more information. As always, if you have questions about storage or maintenance, give us a call at 800-FTL-HELP.

You say you've never owned an RV, have you ever camped in any kind of RV or done any camping? My suggestion would be to rent a motorhome for a week and see it its something you can live in for a period of time. There is a reason Newmar and Tiffins are more expensive, you get what you pay for whether it be quality in the product or customer service. Floor plan is the key to living happiness.

If you're comfortable working with the ATS, call Newmar with your vin and they can tell you where your ATS is located. Ask for a wiring schematic as well.

not hearing the box energize when I plug in the cable .... is this the portable surgeguard you're referring to? What originally happened was I didn't turn the AC's off before I plugged in...you tripped a house breaker. If you're using a 20amp garage plug, its most likely on a GFCI, look for a tripped GFCI. by plugging in the house 20 amp I now have power to the coach with an extension cord but still nothing . What were you plugged in with before you were plugged in with this extension cord?

Carl, I've seen many fifth wheels and a few motorhomes on the of way to the the Big Bend State Park and you can always see their white knuckles. You won't see me doing it.

Yes. Hwy 170 doesn't get tricky for several miles past Lajitas.

Bill. I'm not sure if he can tow this on a dolly. Some Suzukis can only be dollied with the rear wheels off the ground, so towed backwards. I had a Suzuki Samurai that could be flat towed or on a dolly backwards.

Oh my! I meant to say but only in your toad. Not only steep but some pretty good curves. Thanks, Brett, good catch.

Here are some places we recently stayed: Broke Mill RV Park, Del Rio. Marathon Motel & RV Park, Marathon A drive through Big Bend in your motorhome is great. Visit Terlingua Ghost Town and have a beer on the porch with the locals. Maverick RV Ranch, Lajitas Make the drive between Lajitas and Presidio (Hwy 170) following the Rio Grande River. Davis Mountains State Park (pull through w/full hook ups) in Fort Davis McDonald Observatory and get tickets for the star gazing party. March and April will be better for cactus blooms. Enjoy our great state.

As Brett mentioned, I'm not sure if you're giving instructions for dolly towing or 4 down but I will say again -- What does the owners manual say? Here are the instructions for towing 4 down: From the owner's manual - 2000 Vitara/Grand Vitara ...Towing Method A - 4WD vehicles with automatic transmission - four wheels on the ground.1 - Shift the automatic transmission in P (Park)2 - Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position3 - Shift the transfer lever into neutral4 - Make sure 4WD light on instrument cluster is off5 - Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position to unlock the steering wheel6 - Release the parking brake.Stop towing the vehicle every 200 miles, with the transfer lever still in neutral, start the engine, shift into "D" (Drive) and rev the engine for about one minute to circulate the oil in the transfer case. Make sure to shift into "P" (Park) before next towing.

What does the owners manual say about towing on a dolly? Jeeps with 4 wheel drives cannot be towed on a dolly.

I guess my only recommendation, since we don't have much to go on, would be head south, southwest or southeast.

Well dang I just plain missed that GFI. How about this, GFI's are notorious about going bad after they trip a few times and I know that from personal experience.

Contact Fleetwood customer service, they will email you wiring schematics and you may want to go ahead and request the plumbing drawings. You will need your FIN or Vin number when you call. I'm not sure if you have electric or hydraulic jacks but you may find some help from Powergear/Lippert website. https://www.lci1.com/support-leveling-systems/

Just a thought, if you were off shore power long enough that your batteries required the "bulk charge" rate when you plugged back in to 20 amp service that could possibly cause the breaker to trip.

Jeff, welcome. What are the expected low temperatures where your unit will be stored? If you expect prolonged freezing temperatures, the flooded cell batteries are at risk of freezing if not at full charge.