hermanmullins

Bill, Yes most people that work with wood knows how to set the depth of a skil saw, and it works fine in the middle of a room. However if you are in a M/H bathroom you would have limited space. A skil saw blade set to make a 3/4" deep cut has a very limited run before it hit objects like walls. Now to the problem at hand. If OldasDirt's toilet is on a raised up platform he might be able to remove the toilet and remove the entire platform top the toilet rest on. Problem solved and no sawing.

The State of Texas says if you are towing a car. trailer or dolly that exceeds 4,500 lbs. you must have an auxilliary braking of some sort. Be sure and check with the Mfg. of the manual car to see if it can be towed 4 down. Is there a company that makes base plates for the vehicle you wish to tow. Also check the capacity of your hitch. What type of lighting will you need. Will what you tow exceed to GVW. Hope this helps.

I just reread the question. It asked if the toilet could be screwed to 3/4" plywwod. To that question, Yes. But there is no way I would put a saw to the floor right over the Holding tank that would be right under the toilet.

Whoachubby, that is what is called "Hitting the nail on the head". Might I suggest that when you purchase your replacement switches that you buy several extras. With a M/H you never have enough extra parts.

I beleive it is their Model 603.

nekiatap, Welcome to the Forum, I know that Camping World carries the Gustafon lights. I don't know if they would have replacement parts. Check out www.gustafonlighting.com they have relpacement parts intheir catalog.

Will, Welcome to the Forum. Give Dash Board Covers by Josie. www.coversbyjosie.com

Whoachubby, Welcome to the Forum. I have had the switch in both of my Bedroom reading lights go out is less then a week of one another. They are easy to remove from the wall. You can check for 12 volts there because you have both Black (Positive) and White (Ground). If you have 12 volts check the switch. If you do not have voltage there try to run a wire from the ground side of the coach battery and see if you have power at the positive side of the light. If you have power, reverse the wire on the battery to the positive and check the ground at the light. This way you can check for a bad power or ground. Hope this works. I am sure there are other test out there and you will hear from them soon. Good luck

Oh well. M & G was closed for the week end but the Owner said that Montie could answer the question about your Jeep but he was sure they had on to fit. 800-817-7698. I like M & G so much I have them on speed dial.

jrf95567, Welcome to the Forum Both of the tow bars you spoke of are very good units. I prefer the M & G Engineering Braking System. You do not have to put in separate bulbs on your Jeep. You can have it wired using your current Bulbs by having diodes installed. Check out Camping World. They have a kit you can buy and it isolates your coach and Jeep from each other using the same bulbs. If you are in Texas I would be glad to install it for you. I have wired several vehicles including a Jeep Wrangler, Yukon and Silverado. Check out www.m-gengineering.com

Norm& Paulette, Welcome to the FMCA and the Forum. Some day I want to hear how you went from a Marine grunt to USAF Officer. That has got to be a good story. If you two are ever find your selfs in TEXAS give me a shout on the message board. I can't use them but many Bases have RV parks that you can take advantage of. Again Welcome from the US Navy.

Mike, Welcome to the Forum. HWH is an excelent company. Check out their web site and see what they have for your coach. You could give them a call and talk with their tech people HWH Corp. 2096 Moscow Rd. Moscow, IA 800-321-3494 www.hwhcorp.com Good Luck

Just because you can hear the pump come off and on with the key doesn't mean it is working enough to provide adequate pressure to fuel your throttle body injector. I would still get fuel out of the tank and check for trash. I started to say I wouldn't put in too much fuel* until I found the problem but I see you said you put in $40.00 worth of gas and by today's standards isn't much fuel. You could take it to an shop and let them run a test to see how much pressure your pumps is providing and see if when the key is turned off does the pressure drop quickly. *(Note a empty tank is easier to drop them a full one)

Hydroboost is one of the worst thing GM ever put on a Truck Chassis. I drove a 93 Chevrolet 1 ton with Hydroboost and the heavier the load the less brakes you had. If Gord has Hydroboost likes his coach other then the Brakes he might check into seeing if he can convert to a Vacuum Booster system. I don't know if it can be done but I would sure check it out. Gord I don't know how you approch a steep down hill grade, but down shifting to a lower gear will help.

Texas Taxes: 2002 40'M/H $235.00 2000 Caddy 41.00 2005 Mariner 64.00

14 days short of two years. Good news or bad news, who could have asked for a quicked response. WOW

Wayne, I am sure no one would ever take you for anything other then a FMCA Marine. SEMPER FI (From a Swabie)

Question: Why don't retirees mind being called Seniors. Answer: Because it comes with a 10% discount.

Dan Welcome to the Forum. I would say the way the economy is now, a 4 years old map would not be very far from correct today. I still have a 1987 Rand McNally in my coach because it has more detail then the newer ones. I still use a newer one for finding routes and the older one for details. Oh yes I also have a GPS.

Gord, You should find your master cylinder under your hood just to your right while facing the coach. Gord, I'm not trying to be smart with you but if you are having a hard time finding the master cylinder, might I suggest that you take your coach to good shop and let them flush and refill your brake fluid. (watch what they do and you can learn how to do it the next time yourself) At the same time you might have them look at your brake shoes or pads. Good Luck and Happy RVing.

I have always logged in to the FMCA Home page to forum to new contents. After I have logged in I stay logged in for some time. Every now and then I may have to log in again, but it doesn't happen enough to matter. It may have to do with each persons server. But I will be the first to say I have no Idea how a lot of this works.

Charles10, Before you go to the expense of a different engine you might consider checking out people that have had a Banks Up Grade done to their engine to see what if any difference they got. If they got what you would like it would be a lot less money then a new engine. Just a thought.

oldasdirt with a rotton floor, Wow. Having replaced rotten flooring before in a home and in a M/H are completely different. There are so many thing under the M/H floor. I would make a frame out of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 s large enough to allow your router cutter to just clear to rotten area. Then make several cuts around the inside of the frame cutting a little deeper each time until you just barely brake through the floor. At this point you can see what is close by and if you have space to put bracing around the opening to give you something to secure the repair to. I would use pressure treated wood and exterior or Marine Plywood. I would coat every thing with primer. I would also glue and caulk everything. As you make the repair you might look to see what may have caused the rot in the first place and correct it if possible.

pscary1, Welcome to the forum. You might consider putting an over sized fender washer under each screw head. This gives a larger surface coverage and will be less likly to fracture in the future. You might take a look at all of your covers and check they for cracking. If you find cracking the large washer can be used now before you see the cover slowly floating upside down and sliding down the hwy. behind you.

saturnxjc, Welcome to the Forum. To go along with what Brett said,how long did the M/H sit without being started? How much fuel was in the tank when you filled it the first time? If the tank was low on fuel and had sat for a long time there could be alot of debris that comes from rust, condensation, bad fuel and on & on. If you can safely remove the fuel filter and run a hose from the tank into a bucket. Turn on the key (electric fuel pump) and let the fuel run into the bucket til its about half full. turn off the key and wait a few minutes to let it settle and see what kind of debris you have in the fuel. if you find a lot you might consider draining the tank and start with a new filter and fresh fuel. You may have to change the filter several times to catch all of the debris.