hermanmullins

jrf95567, Welcome to the Forum Both of the tow bars you spoke of are very good units. I prefer the M & G Engineering Braking System. You do not have to put in separate bulbs on your Jeep. You can have it wired using your current Bulbs by having diodes installed. Check out Camping World. They have a kit you can buy and it isolates your coach and Jeep from each other using the same bulbs. If you are in Texas I would be glad to install it for you. I have wired several vehicles including a Jeep Wrangler, Yukon and Silverado. Check out www.m-gengineering.com

Norm& Paulette, Welcome to the FMCA and the Forum. Some day I want to hear how you went from a Marine grunt to USAF Officer. That has got to be a good story. If you two are ever find your selfs in TEXAS give me a shout on the message board. I can't use them but many Bases have RV parks that you can take advantage of. Again Welcome from the US Navy.

Mike, Welcome to the Forum. HWH is an excelent company. Check out their web site and see what they have for your coach. You could give them a call and talk with their tech people HWH Corp. 2096 Moscow Rd. Moscow, IA 800-321-3494 www.hwhcorp.com Good Luck

Just because you can hear the pump come off and on with the key doesn't mean it is working enough to provide adequate pressure to fuel your throttle body injector. I would still get fuel out of the tank and check for trash. I started to say I wouldn't put in too much fuel* until I found the problem but I see you said you put in $40.00 worth of gas and by today's standards isn't much fuel. You could take it to an shop and let them run a test to see how much pressure your pumps is providing and see if when the key is turned off does the pressure drop quickly. *(Note a empty tank is easier to drop them a full one)

Hydroboost is one of the worst thing GM ever put on a Truck Chassis. I drove a 93 Chevrolet 1 ton with Hydroboost and the heavier the load the less brakes you had. If Gord has Hydroboost likes his coach other then the Brakes he might check into seeing if he can convert to a Vacuum Booster system. I don't know if it can be done but I would sure check it out. Gord I don't know how you approch a steep down hill grade, but down shifting to a lower gear will help.

Texas Taxes: 2002 40'M/H $235.00 2000 Caddy 41.00 2005 Mariner 64.00

14 days short of two years. Good news or bad news, who could have asked for a quicked response. WOW

Wayne, I am sure no one would ever take you for anything other then a FMCA Marine. SEMPER FI (From a Swabie)

Question: Why don't retirees mind being called Seniors. Answer: Because it comes with a 10% discount.

Dan Welcome to the Forum. I would say the way the economy is now, a 4 years old map would not be very far from correct today. I still have a 1987 Rand McNally in my coach because it has more detail then the newer ones. I still use a newer one for finding routes and the older one for details. Oh yes I also have a GPS.

Gord, You should find your master cylinder under your hood just to your right while facing the coach. Gord, I'm not trying to be smart with you but if you are having a hard time finding the master cylinder, might I suggest that you take your coach to good shop and let them flush and refill your brake fluid. (watch what they do and you can learn how to do it the next time yourself) At the same time you might have them look at your brake shoes or pads. Good Luck and Happy RVing.

I have always logged in to the FMCA Home page to forum to new contents. After I have logged in I stay logged in for some time. Every now and then I may have to log in again, but it doesn't happen enough to matter. It may have to do with each persons server. But I will be the first to say I have no Idea how a lot of this works.

Charles10, Before you go to the expense of a different engine you might consider checking out people that have had a Banks Up Grade done to their engine to see what if any difference they got. If they got what you would like it would be a lot less money then a new engine. Just a thought.

oldasdirt with a rotton floor, Wow. Having replaced rotten flooring before in a home and in a M/H are completely different. There are so many thing under the M/H floor. I would make a frame out of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 s large enough to allow your router cutter to just clear to rotten area. Then make several cuts around the inside of the frame cutting a little deeper each time until you just barely brake through the floor. At this point you can see what is close by and if you have space to put bracing around the opening to give you something to secure the repair to. I would use pressure treated wood and exterior or Marine Plywood. I would coat every thing with primer. I would also glue and caulk everything. As you make the repair you might look to see what may have caused the rot in the first place and correct it if possible.

pscary1, Welcome to the forum. You might consider putting an over sized fender washer under each screw head. This gives a larger surface coverage and will be less likly to fracture in the future. You might take a look at all of your covers and check they for cracking. If you find cracking the large washer can be used now before you see the cover slowly floating upside down and sliding down the hwy. behind you.

saturnxjc, Welcome to the Forum. To go along with what Brett said,how long did the M/H sit without being started? How much fuel was in the tank when you filled it the first time? If the tank was low on fuel and had sat for a long time there could be alot of debris that comes from rust, condensation, bad fuel and on & on. If you can safely remove the fuel filter and run a hose from the tank into a bucket. Turn on the key (electric fuel pump) and let the fuel run into the bucket til its about half full. turn off the key and wait a few minutes to let it settle and see what kind of debris you have in the fuel. if you find a lot you might consider draining the tank and start with a new filter and fresh fuel. You may have to change the filter several times to catch all of the debris.

Ultartravler. Welcome to the Forum. Some time I agree with Bill, (Not often but sometimes) This time I agree whith Bill. With a 2007 Chevrolet 4X4 pickup you have the idea vehicle. You have 4 wheel drive, which means all you have to do is hook you truck to your M/H and put your truck in 4wheel drive neutral. To do this you set your parking brake, turn on the key but do not start your engine. Put your gear shift lever into neutral, put you foot and hold down the brake pedal. At the same time hold down the 2Hi and I beleive its the 4 Hi (Bottom Button). When your truck goes into 4 wheel neutral a Red light will come on. Put you shifter in Park, turn off the key and remove it and release the Parking Brake. As far as your truck is concerned you are ready to go. 5 minutes tops. Your truck doesn't have a locking pin in the steering wheel so you don't need to leave the key on. You will still have to put your truck into 4 wheel neutral to pull it on a dolly. Tow Bar $600.00. Base plates $400.00 (if you install them yourself) Secure connection to your coach. Tow Dolly $1,500.00 Min. Tow dolly extra weight. When your park you have to have a place to store the Dolly. Tires have to be strapped down on Dolly. My bet is for 4 wheels down, No Dolly.

Ckarlen, Welcome to the Forum. To solve your light problem you need to have you Ford wired with a wiring harness you can purchase at Camping World. I have wired several cars/truck/jeeps with tow lights. It wires in just like a trailers lights, with one exception. There are diodes on each bulb. this allows power to the light from the coach but doesn't allow the power to feed back into the cars system where it can do damage to electronic components. And your lights will function just fine when unhooked from the Coach. If you were close to McKinney, TX I would be more then happy to help you install the harness.

Johnwynn, Welcome to the Forum. We had a 32 foot Monaco Windsor D/P. It road and handled very well. We moved up from a 28 foot gas which handled OK. After the 32 footer we moved up to our present 40 Monaco Dynasty D/P with a tag axle. Each coach was better then the last. I don't think you will have any handling problems with a Beaver. They are very good coaches.

Tonycoachman Welcome to the Forum. Your best bet on an answer would be the Factory. www.greenrvproducts.com Are you a member of FMCA? If so have you considered joining a Chapter? Great fun and wonderful people.

Larry, that would be GMAC that you can get through FMCA. With their coverage you can put your coach in storage. You must keep it in storage for 30 days or your payments continue. If you have full coverage, Liability, Comp & Collision, they will suspend your Liability and Collision but keep your Comp in effect while in storage. This keep you and your loan company covered in case of fire or other damage not caused by a collision since you will not be on the road.

MikeMarie, Welcome to the Forum. If I understand, you are speaking about your House Battery. If it is time to replace the house battery and you do infact have room 2 six volts in series will give you longer usage. Be sure and purchase Golf Cart Batteries. They a deep cycle and will last longer. It appears you are new to RVing. Have you joined FMCA? If not it is a wounderful orginazation with lots of great people. You might want to check in to joining a Chapter in your area. You can find them on the FMCA Home Page Areas and Chapters.

jmann7x, Welcome to the Forum. By these two responces you get first hand reports. For more information try www.rvparkreviews.com there you can find parks in any area of this wonderful contry of ours.

If I know people, I know that they have been dumping all kinds of unmentionable stuff in the sewer system for years. The treatment plant have know this for years also. They have been treating the waste for all sort of stuff including chemicals. I think, and this is only my thoughts, they finally found a way to charge companies more for sewerage treatment. Are they going to begin charging RV parks more? God I hope a sanitation engineer reads this.

Richard, that seems like an older remedy. With todays computers, if your don't get the gas cap on and click it at least 3 times it will cause your check engine light to come on. But I remember a lot of thing we used to do before ECMs.