wolfe10

To expand further, because of the many loads that run with the ignition on (engine, lights, dash HVAC fan, etc) the ignition switch is just used to close the IGNITION SOLENOID/IGNITION RELAY. And as desertdeals690 pointed out, these solenoid/relays need to be constant duty, not intermittent duty. The two look the same, but are NOT the same.

rlaird, Several variables, BUT if the same battery technology, same quality and same total AH rating, 12 VDC batteries in parallel are just fine/equal to the 6 VDC in series/parallel. That is the configuration on our sailboat and that life is a LOT harder on a battery than in a motorhome. Shore power at anchor???? I agree, there are more quality deep cycle 6 VDC batteries than 12 VDC, but there ARE 12 VDC batteries that are every bit as good.

If important technical information is available elsewhere, I see two options: 1. Post the information here. 2. Post a link to the good information on another site. Ya, I guess there is sensitivity on some forums to a first timer going in and trying to drum up support for his website. That clearly is not the case here. I often post links to other websites which detail information on an issue. Do that on a number of forums I participate in-- never had a problem or even had it mentioned. Brett Moderator

jleamont, Very good job of reporting-- often what works on a front engine truck may not be adequate for a longer diesel pusher. Might be a good idea to post all the PN's of what you used (pump, additional primary fuel filter, etc). Details of wiring the additional fuel pump (suspect ignition-hot source with its own fuse), exact change in fuel hose routing, etc. Thanks. Brett

Yup-- got the same e-mail. Suspect it went out as an e-blast to all members. My understanding is that the Governing Board, faced with the choice of raising dues to cover the cost of FMCAssist or digging into reserves felt that the benefit more than offset the $10. Yes, to me $10 USED TO BE a lot of $$. Now, can't get a fast food meal for that. Not excited about paying more, but the benefits more than outweigh the extra "burger meal."

Sounds line you are on the right track. And, to save some $$, I have no problem with a FACTORY reman dryer (Factory being Haldex, not Bubba using "almost as good" overseas parts).

If you can't find an answer here: http://pacbrake.com/service-support/ give PacBrake a call tomorrow: 800 663-0096.

bossgv69, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What is it that you are trying to correct/improve? Have you check for play in the whole steering assembly? Bell cranks, particularly left one?

I do not have a definitive "this temperature is OK, this one too hot. Much more telling is to compare hub temperatures, taking into account things like sun on one side. If the absence of outside influences hub temperatures should be the same side to side. After checking them a time or two, you will know immediately if one is out of spec. BTW, many of us just walk around and lightly place our hands on the hub every time we stop for exactly the same reason.

Michelin RV Tire Guide: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/tire-guide-warranties-and-bulletins/ Click on "RV Tire Guide". All about the "Care and Feeding" and inflation tables.

tfakins, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what coach you have-- the coach maker chose the fuse location.

This morning I reached out to my contact at Roadmaster. Here is his e-mail reply: The other posters are correct. We made it, sold it exclusively to CW. It is a single-pressure-no-matter-what braking system, not proportional. Installation instructions and wiring schematics: http://roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-3476-02.pdf When plugged in, the unit should activate the air compressor immediately, and fill the internal tank. Regardless of external wiring connections, it should depress the brake pedal when test button is pushed. The two-wire connection is for a breakaway switch. The single wire connector is for a feed from the left/right combined brake and turn wiring on the toad. We tap off of green and yellow, combine signals with a Roadmaster wiring diode, and feed to single wire connector. See page 3. "Brakes in use" signal comes from vehicle's own brake light switch and is fed to a LED on the dash of MH. If the unit does not fill tank or depress brakes when test button is used, suggest that they contact Roadmaster Tech Support 800-669-6960. We still repair these units and should be able to fix him up with our repair program.

mapleskoff, Yes, your post was just fine. And, whether your home outlet is 15 or 20 amps, you are just fine plugging your adapter into it and powering your RV from it. What several were pointing out was that the WEAK LINK really dictates how much power (what you can turn on) you can use in your coach. As an example, even if you have 20 amps to the outlet, but the adapter is rated for 15 amps, the adapter would limit what you can run. Said another way, if you run over 15 amps on a 15 amp adapter, it will overheat, reduce voltage, and in extreme cases melt.

What happens when you shut off the engine with air pressure at cut-out PSI around 125 PSI? How fast does it drop? With engine off, can you HEAR a leak as you walk around the coach?

Doug, Sounds like you have a significant air leak or problem with the air system governor. When you shut off the engine, how long does it take for pressure to drop? While pressure SHOULD cycle, it should be over a period of many minutes-- even longer if not using brakes and on smooth road.

FIVE, Assume it was NOT the FMCA Forum!

With a rear radiator, I would certainly extend the crankcase breather (aka slobber tube) to behind the fan shroud. Whether you also run it into a bottle is up to you. For the extension: 1" barb to barb fitting 4' of 1" ID hose. Oil resistant best, but even the clear reinforced hose will last many years. 4' is long enough that you can run it where you want and cut off excess. 2 hose clamps for above Wire ties to secure the extension. IMPORTANT: make sure the hose only runs downhill from the engine/no drip loop. If you decide to use a catch bottle, make sure that you have more square inches of exhaust than the current 1" ID hose. You do NOT want to add any restriction to the crankcase breather. Also a good idea to calibrate the engine oil dipstick with the correct quantity of oil for you engine. Any engine with an open crankcase breather (all large diesels prior to 2007) overfilling the crankcase just guarantees that it will come out the crankcase breather hose.

Because there are 4 tires in the rear, so each tire is supporting less weight than the 2 tires in the front.

Yes, 15 amp male to 30 amp female adapters are available almost everywhere. Certainly all RV stores and most Walmarts.

Towing capacity is determined by the "least strong" component. So, it could be the hitch, but could be frame or frame extension, brakes, transmission, etc. Definitely abide by your coach maker's figures.

Bill, What do you find when you open the air tank drains-- oil? water? debris? Do you have an air dryer? I know SMC did build some coaches without dryers! Certainly contributes to contaminants in the air system.

There will be only one line from potable water tank to pump. It is only after the water pump that lines branch off to cold (blue in many coaches) and post-water heater hot (red in many coaches).

Sure sounds like another valve between that one and the tank. Can you trace the line from tank or is it buried?

I am going to suggest we lock this thread. One of the basic tenets of any successful Forum is no personal jibes/attacks. I don't see this thread moving forward--pretty well everything has been covered. Moderator

Just a suggestion on out of town searching/deal making (from prospective of someone who has done that multiple times and has done a LOT of coach mechanical inspections): Do not be afraid of dealing on an out of town coach. This assumes that you have narrowed down your short list and are certain that the coach will meet your needs if it turns out to be a good one. Get plenty of pictures. Ask for pictures of any of the negatives as well-- evidence of water leaks, body damage, etc. Ask for copies of maintenance records or if just receipts that they are available when you view the coach. Agree on a price. And VERY IMPORTANT: The agreed price in cash (you either have cash or financing already lined up) is subject to inspection, said inspection to be performed by XX date. Note: this does not limit you to your own inspection or one done by a 3rd party. Obviously, the sooner the date, the better from the seller's perspective. In most cases, the fact that you are flying/driving long distance to look at the coach will preclude the need for a deposit. If deposit is required, make sure it has the above "subject to" clause. Have the seller send you a photo of the front and back of the title showing that it is in his name (unless dealer). Sure, he can write VOID across what he sends you. But you want to confirm that he CAN give you clear title. If a lien on the title, have him provide you with the name of an officer at his lending institution so you can confirm ownership and payoff. Inspect the coach. If it passes your inspection, I strongly suggest you have a professional inspection done WITH YOU THERE. I used to do inspections and do written reports-- still do occasionally. But there is so much that can be better communicated by you "seeing what the inspector is seeing". Discuss what needs to be done now, what can wait, what you feel you want to tackle, what you want to hire out. Next is the actual transaction. Certainly have your financing lined up ahead of time. Get the name of an officer at YOUR bank so you can pull the trigger quickly if you decide to proceed. If no lien, easiest for both of you to go to either his bank or a branch of your bank, him with title in hand. If his bank: Have an officer at his bank contact your bank officer with drafting instructions. This happens very quickly these days. You are protected, as you will get the title and any paperwork you need in your home state to register it (you brought it with you) and it can be notarized by his bank. He is protected because he does not hand over keys until his banker said "the money is in his account". If at a branch of your bank, the bank can hand him a Cashier's check or wire transfer. No one should accept a Cashier's check unless it they see it come directly from a banker-- to easy to be forged. To me, the wire transfer confirmed by both party's banks is the safest for everyone. If a lien on it, your banker and the lender's banker can work out best way to proceed. Basically, if your banker his happy, you should be happy. Enjoy your new coach!