wolfe10

The Invisibrake is an excellent choice (we have had them on our last two toads) IF you will be keeping the toad for awhile. Said another way, if you change cars often, you would probably want a more "portable" system. That is why Roadmaster Corp makes several typed of toad brakes-- on single type fits everyone's needs.

Get some wide blue tape (so it will not leave a residue). Start taping off the "likely suspects". BTW, mirrors often contribute to this.

arthur, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what chassis you have and whether a Class A or C. Your answer will likely depend on chassis rather than "house".

You will want to figure out what tripped the 30 amp breaker. Was this the coach's main breaker or a breaker dedicated to the inverter/charger?

A quick look for that gauge did not show it as a dual foot gauge. Assume you added that for checking rear duals.

Yes, we need to know if you have an inverter (inverter only) in which case you will have a separate converter OR do you have an inverter/charger (one unit that does both). Since yours is a 2013, I ASSUMED (perhaps incorrectly) that you have an inverter/charger.

On the main FMCA Website, under Magazine is a year by year list from the vehicle manufacturers of what they deem towable 4 wheels down. Yes, in some cases the "not to recommend for towing" is a legal/warranty decision, not a mechanical one. But, it will give you a good starting place.

btulskie, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. If 120 VAC is not reaching the inverter/charger, that is exactly what would happen. So, assuming you have all other 120 VAC things working when on shore power (or generator for that matter) except proper operation of the inverter/charger, start by flipping OFF and back ON the breaker on the main 120 VAC breaker panel for the inverter. If that doesn't correct it, there is a fuse in most of the inverter/chargers that may be bad. Tell us exactly what inverter/charger you have and perhaps we can tell you where to check for the fuse.

About all I would do for a one to two month stay is have the diesel tank topped off to reduce condensation and since it will be in the summer, add a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF to prevent algae growth. Cover tires if possible. Enjoy your stay.

Yes, probably worth checking against a good/calibrated tire gauge.

Or, if you are involved in an accident and do not meet the laws of the jurisdiction where it occurred.

Richard, This company in Houston makes tanks. No first hand info on them, but they have been in business for years, https://houston.craigslist.org/rvs/d/holding-tanks/6576023907.html

Herman, Ya, remember running it through the carb, but not the oil.

Reasonable question. I have forwarded it to a retired Tire Engineer on FMCA's Technical Advisory Committee for a reply-- past my pay grade. Brett

You should NOT ever reduce PSI because of a rise caused by a rise in temperature. Absolutely, the tire engineers understand physics. All their recommendations including those on the sidewall of the tire are for COLD (read that as before driving). They KNOW that PSI will rise with temperature rise due to rise in ambient temperature, sun exposure, friction with the road. ...........

Sorry, that is a myth spread by those wanting to sell Nitrogen. Nitrogen like all gases follow the Ideal Gas Law: PV=nRT. When temperature rises, pressure WILL rise. Basic high school chemistry/physics. Now, if one fills from one of those coin op with lots of water in it, THAT is a different matter. Ya, water is NOT an ideal gas, so pressure goes up more than with DRY AIR or Nitrogen. Said another way, very little difference in pressure change for a given temperature rise for either dry air or Nitrogen.

Yup, pressure rise with temperature rise is taken into consideration by the tire engineers. All normal.

Agree. And if any miles on the current oil, I would just use this opportunity to do normal oil and filter. If it has been run with ATF in it, perhaps with the drain plug out, pour a quart of new oil through it to flush a little more of the "mixed oil" out.

$100 for labor isn't too bad. But, changing fluid (Transynd) and filters (filter kit from Allison) is not difficult. And most owners will do a better job than most techs. Owners will carefully clean the bottom of the transmission to keep dirt out. They will use an inch-lb torque wrench to tighten filter covers and insure that they don't get dirt in when adding new fluid. All you need to buy (for an Allison 3000 anyway-- you don't say what transmission you have ) is a 5 gallon pail of Transynd (you will use all but 1 quart) and the filter kit. Both from any Allison dealer for your transmission serial number.

What chassis? That will tell us how much clearance you need. But, to answer your question, yes, if driving the duals up on boards, all tires need to be supported.

Assume he means BASE PLATE. Yes, on some Jeeps, might use a bumper kit [attach to bumper rather than to other vehicle structural element(s)].

If the wetness is at or near a joint, suspect the joint. If in the middle of a hose/pipe, suspect condensation. Yes, with plastic pipes, look carefully for a crack.

Yes, could be condensation. If the temperature of the cold water plumbing is below the dew point of the air INSIDE the coach, it will sweat. Might be worth a couple of bucks of pipe insulation from any box store to slip over the pipes if you find yourself in this condition (high humidity inside with cold water coming in) very often.

The hydroboost system is completely separate from the brake fluid. Hydroboost uses ATF Dexron (at least on our 1997 Safari Sahara). The master cylinder is up front, driver's wheel well. It takes regular brake fluid (DOT III). Best procedure is to suck all the fluid out of the master cylinder. Yes, adding fluid is a pain, at least on ours, as the master cylinder had very little clearance to the top of the wheel well. Have seen some with a remote reservoir accessed from the front hood area. Fill master cylinder, then use a small screwdriver to "stir". Suck it out. Repeat until what you remove is CLEAR. The idea is to NOT run the dirty hydrated brake fluid through the master cylinder, lines and calipers. Once the master cylinder if full of clean, clear new brake fluid, go to the right rear (furthest wheel position) and use a suction pump with clear plastic hose to suck out old fluid until it is clear. I have a 50 year old manual transmission pump and a couple of "reducers" with the last clear plastic hose sized to fit snugly on the caliper bleed screws. Continue to top off master cylinder. Then left rear, right front and lastly left front. This will completely change fluid WITHOUT stressing the master cylinder seals. Do this every 2-3 years-- brake fluid is cheap. Master cylinders and calipers are NOT.

Doug, Minor correction to "research" recommendation: Each tire on an axle is inflated to the same PSI BASED ON THE HEAVIER WHEEL POSITION ON THAT AXLE. Agree, it is a good idea to weight and then make the decision based on how "over-inflated" the 65/80 is.