wolfe10

alanluher, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by checking the switch where you plug in the hose. Perhaps the door is slightly ajar or the switch is slightly recessed. May even be a loose wire/contact at the switch. If not, check the switch wiring at the vacuum itself.

Yup, already discussed here in the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/topic/11323-political-statement-by-marcus-lemonis/#comment-86916

F467598, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While we love Big Bend, there are no "resorts" there. And the only full hookups are in a parking lot. Yes, outside the park, one can get full hook ups. But would not define any as resorts. Still, very much worth the trip.

Wow, that is great!

Another option is to copy the charging voltages for each step (bulk, absorption and float) and call you battery manufacturer to see which one is a closer fit to their charging algorithms.

DarylPrice, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I have not personally worked on the 5 speed. This information is for the Allison 3000 transmission-- I don't know how much is applicable to your application. A call to Allison tomorrow can answer it. Copy down your transmission serial number for them. Allison help line 800 252 5283. 1. On the 3000, the most accurate way to check transmission fluid level is from the electronic shift pad, not the dip stick. 2. If the dip stick can not be retrieved by other means, the dip stick tube is pretty easy to release from the transmission which would allow retrieval of your original dipstick for either reassembly or replacement with one marked exactly the same way.

Yup, Increases aerodynamic drag and with no increase in speed. Over the years have run into several 25-30 MPH headwinds. Always when we were on back roads (which we tend to drive anyway), thank goodness. So, if we had to drive that day, basically just down arrowed to 5th gear, put RPM at 200 over peak torque RPM and hit cruise. Ya, in the low 50MPH range, but no worries driving and not terrible effect on MPG.

matt2525, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Fuel MPG has increased in both gasoline and post 2007 in diesels as federal standards have tightened. Yes, on diesels, it comes with the additional cost and complexity of DEF and "converters". Two other major factors affect MPG: Speed-- with the aerodynamics of a "house" there is a much larger penalty to pay for higher speed. Many coaches that can get 9-10 MPG at 55-60 are in the 7's at 70. Weight-- not a significant factor on flat ground, but becomes quite significant on grades. So, weight's affect on YOUR MPG is dependent on what kind of terrain you cover.

C3H8

Bill, that is fine. And I sent a request to the IT department at FMCA to see if they could pick out the propane injection posts and put them in a new topic styled: Propane Injection For Diesel Engines in the engine section.

Good. Glad to see factual research. Again, I don't know that it would be a problem, but sure don't want to see someone hurt with even a potentially dangerous concentration of propane in their whole air system. Would also be interested in any detrimental affect of hydrocarbons on all the rubber in the suspension and brake systems. Again, no information, but questions. Of course, if propane injections is really important, one could remove the air system intake from the engine intake manifold, block that port and fit another air filter to feed the air system. Yes, the compressor would have to work harder as it would be supplied by ambient air, not compressed, cooled air, but something to think about.

YUP, has to be a full moon out there. Or, maybe just the moon in front of the sun?????

Bill, Air is used, not just if there is a leak, but as ride height valves adjust air to the bags and with air brakes, each time the brakes are used. Suspect in mountain driving where you are heavy into throttle, then brakes and also quite a bit of air in/out of the air bags it may be an issue. Don't know the ramifications of propane in the air system, but might be worth exploring.

alanito2017, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Several points: First, with batteries being discharged to dead, very likely they will not come back to life. Most coaches have circuits that are not disconnected by the disconnect switch-- things like propane sensor, refrigerator, etc. Best answer is to fully charge the batteries and have them load tested. Replace if needed. Then, do some kind of charging when in storage: If shore power (even 15 amps), plug it in. If no shore power, solar with smart controller.

Important point: Many engine driven air compressors DO get their air from the engine intake manifold. Why? Easy: No need for a separate air filter, Air is cleaned, compressed (by the turbo), cooled (by the CAC) before it gets to the intake manifold. Said another way, quite a lot of the "work" in compressing is done for free by the turbo (up to 25 PSI at max boost). SO, locate your on-engine air compressor and trace the large lines/hoses. One will go to the air dryer, the other to the "source" of air for the system.

What??? Is their a full moon???

Bill, Keep us posted on the MPG before/after as well as propane consumption. I know you keep good records.

Done (locked).

OK, found it: https://www.cnbc.com/2017/08/16/marcus-lemonis-if-youre-ok-with-what-trump-said-dont-shop-at-my-business.html Two paragraphs (below) in the CNBC link as well as a short video clip. Serial entrepreneur Marcus Lemonis had some choice words on Wednesday about those who may support President Donald Trump's response to the violent white supremacist rally in Charlottesville, Virginia. Trump's statements led to a wave of CEO resignations from his advisory councils and on Wednesday, Trump abruptly dissolved the councils. To be fair, I find that statement a LONG WAY from ".... Customers who supported our President Donald Trump to take their business elsewhere. "

timetraveler, Welcome to/welcome back to the FMCA Forum. Like the other Forums, discussion of politics, religion, etc are not permitted on the FMCA Forum. But, WOULD appreciate a link to Mr. Lemonis's statement that was referred to in your post.

The Freedom 15 is both an inverter with built-in smart charger. The external breakers are for 120 VAC OUT. If 120 VAC present on the IN line, you do need to check the fuse inside the unit. Sure, it could be something more serious, but that is the least expensive and most common cause of failure.

IF your are safe working around 120 VAC: Check for 120 VAC at the inverter coming from main breaker box. If present, you will need to check the fuse inside the inverter.

Yes, take a throw away plastic bucket and ask the tech to deposit the old fuel filter in it. Shake the fuel filter and tip so fuel comes out the INLET. See what you have in terms of contamination.

Fuel polishing is more common in boats, but no reason it can't be done on a motorhome. But, I would want a reason before spending the money to do it. What do you find when you pull the primary or only fuel filter (some coaches have both primary and secondary, some only a single filter)? Dirt? Water? Algae (black slime)? If not, I would not spend my money to polish. You don't mention what engine you have, but all modern diesels are "high bypass" meaning that for every gallon of fuel that goes through the system, only an ounce or two is burned, the rest being used to cool and lubricate the injections system and head with the remainder returning to the tank. I mention that because as fuel level goes down, fuel temperature RISES as the return becomes a larger percent of fuel. That is the reason I rarely go below 1/2 tank without a good reason-- like really cheap fuel coming up! And, as with boats, keeping the fuel tank full when parking reduces condensation. I also add a Biocide (Biobor JF is a common one) if storing the fuel for more than 2 months in summer or 3 months in winter.

If you are on the Forum (which you are because you posted this) you have the same access as all other Forum members to posts and links. Which post of Erniee's are you referring to? What browser are you using? Blocker you are running?