wolfe10

While I agree, it could be some expensive item (PC board, gas valve, etc), I would sure start with the most common cause, one that takes no parts and only a few minutes to do-- the burner area tune-up. It includes: Cleaning the burner tube Cleaning and setting gap for the ignitor Cleaning gas jet Please do let us know what you find.

Peak torque is at 1,100 RPM: http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/engine/Cat_C9_Specs.pdf

Tom,

Roger, That would be quite shocking (pun intended). So, shore power does not come into the main 120 VAC breaker box and then breakers for refrigerator, outlets, roof A/C, etc in that box supply each appliance?? The reason that would be against code is that it is very doubtful that the wiring to the refrigerator is large-gauge. And, if wired directly to a 30 amp outlet, the wire, not a breaker or fuse would serve as the breaker/fuse in the event that there was a short at the refrigerator end. Said another way, there would be no 10 or 15 amp breaker protecting it.

Roger, If you are talking about the outlet that the refrigerator is plugged into, and provide it with 120 VAC from an inverter, it will "back-feed" the whole main breaker box unless the refrigerator breaker is turned off. The DPDT switch should be easy to install: All wires to have hot, neutral and ground unless the new inverter specifically says no ground. Choose a location near the refrigerator. Use an extension cord (male end only) that is plugged into the factory refrigerator outlet and wire it to one side of the DPDT switch. Run a wire from the new inverter to the other side of the DPDT. Then run a new wire from the DPDT to the refrigerator 120 VAC cord. Your choice if this is hard wired or a plug.

nadojan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since it cools on 120 VAC, the cooling unit is probably just fine. When was the last time you did a "burner area tune-up"? Takes no parts and just basic tools. You might also tell us if this happens when parked or only when driving. And how far into the cycle does it get: Igniter clicks (you can hear it at refrigerator outside access door) Gas valve opens ( you can smell gas/feel the gas valve click open) Flame appears-- may have to remove the small tin cover to see it, but can probably look in from the side. Flame continues-- what size is it?

Where was it installed? The closer to the head, the hotter the acceptable temperature, so location is important in determining how hot you want to go.

OK, guys, back on track please. Thanks.

Yes, cutting vents into the back of the coach is one way. But, with the full width mud flap removed, hot air can escape "down and back" into the low pressure area behind the coach. I would try that first, as a lot less "surgery" required.

rwsmith, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Can't answer for the 2017, but our 2014 Elantra manual transmission is very easy to tow-- key in ignition but turned off, transmission in neutral and GO. We have the Roadmaster tow bar and Roadmaster Invisibrake. Never a problem. I have no experience with the "start button" feature on the newer model. One of the features of the Invisibrake is that it charges the toad battery when the coach parking/clearance lights are on. Since we always drive with them on for safety, never had a run down battery. Worse case if the new ones have a higher amp draw is that you will need to run a more robust charge line from coach to toad battery.

Roger, Feedback: when the inverter is powering the outlet, the line from breaker box to that outlet will be POWERED. That means that all breakers in the main breaker box will be powered (unless you also shut off the breaker to the circuit that powers the refrigerator circuit). With the breaker box hot, the converter will be powered. It will charge the batteries. Because neither inverter nor converter area 100% efficient, this "closed loop" condition will deplete power. Yes, the alternator MAY be able to keep up, but at the least, a large waste of power and overheated alternator. Again use a double pole, double throw switch or an ATS. The second ATS would be a lot more expensive and basically the same wiring.

Byron, No, do not believe that is a valid conclusion. Probably more a question of lack of insulation in the OP's coach. Said another way, with a rear radiator, MORE heat is trapped in the engine room upon shut down.

Byron, Copy the address (just highlight and select copy). Then at the top of your post, there is a "link" as in one piece of chain symbol. Click on it and it brings up a window. Paste the web address in the box. Then click on "insert in post".

Roger, Perhaps I am not picturing what you are doing. But, with the switch on, are you plugging it into one of the outlets behind the refrigerator and the refrigerator is plugged into the other outlet? Both outlets in the same fixture and supplied by the same hot and neutral from the main breaker box? If so, you will be "backfeeding" the whole coaches 30 amp breaker panel including the converter. This will create a closed loop and eat a lot of power. That is why I suggested a double throw. It would absolutely guarantee that only one source at a time powers the refrigerator with no backfeeding.

Thanks for the update. Glad it was a good/uneventful trip.

Yup, with double pole, double throw: Side 1: terminal 1 hot from main breaker box (shore power or generator) terminal 2 neutral from same OUT: terminal 1 hot to refrigerator terminal 2 neutral to refrigerator Side 2: terminal 1 hot from inverter terminal 2 neutral from inverter

Roger, Just use a double pole, double throw switch to switch the hot lead and neutral of the 120 VDC to the refrigerator between inverter and shore/generator to the refrigerator. Couple of bucks and a clean installation.

Roger, Those male/male extensions are called "dead man's plugs". And, you will be backfeeding all circuits on your 30 amp coach, including the converter. BAD IDEA. Better to either move the plug as you leave in the morning or wire through a switch so you can choose power source.

Jim, You do NOT want the hydraulic fan on wide open all the time. You are devoting a lot of extra fuel and HP to do that. And, agree, high air flow will solve the problem. But insulation is a much better answer. CAC= Charge Air Cooler. Actually hotter than the radiator most of the time. It is the outermost "layer" in the cooling package. An air to air radiator which takes hot intake air from the turbo and cools it before sending it to the engine. No first hand experience with Dynamat.

I would sure start by insulating the roof of the engine compartment in that area. And yes, additional exits for the hot air would also help. Some have removed the full width mud flap which also aids air flow. Our Alpine with the same engine/side radiator did not even have the full width mud flap from the factory for this very reason. Is this closet above the CAC/radiator?

Since I have not worked on an Aqua-hot system, I contacted an old friend who has a Factory Authorized Aqua Hot Service Center in SE Texas. Here is his reply: When using the diesel burner for hot water, the number two pump will run while the burner is running to stir the coolant tank to provide uniform temp through out the 16 gallon tank. The number two pump supplies heating zone two with hot coolant. Zone two is usually the bathroom and basement fan coils. While the pump is running, the fans are not. But the coil in the bathroom is getting hot coolant. Apparently the exhaust fan is drawing air across the bathroom fan coil giving him his warm air flow. Blocking the bathroom vent for the fan coil would be easier than stopping the coolant flow. Plus if one stops the coolant flow, he defeats the stirring of the coolant tank for good hot water heating — not a good idea. He could open the bathroom cabinet where the fan coil is located and install bypass pex piping with valves to accomplish same to allow the coolant to flow but not heat the coil. Seems blocking the vent is a whole lot easier. You could contact him directly if you like: Rudy Legett 713.818.3234.

Guys, Please, let's get back to the original topic: BDing at Hampton Beach NH Thanks.

roadiestx, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked voltage at the batteries with a digital voltmeter? You can buy one for around $10. They are an invaluable tool in a motorhome. Actual voltage is a LOT better diagnostic tool than the idiot lights.

mesaloose, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked that FMCA has your correct e-mail address on file?

Yes, 1000 hours is a BIG service on Onan QD generators. Should be in your generator owners manual.