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wildebill308

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Everything posted by wildebill308

  1. wildebill308
    Welcome to the forum. Help me get the terminology straitened out in my mind. Now are we talking about s standard RV absorption refrigerator that works on propane or 120 AC electric? Does it have an icemaker? When you talk about "in inverter mode" Is this an inverter you installed or a factory one? If it is one you installed did you run it direct to the refrigerator or just tie in into the circuit the refrigerator is on? What is the make model and year of your RV? Bill
  2. wildebill308
    Personally the convivence of using the toll tag is worth it even if you had to pay 5% more. The convivence of using the toll roads makes it a great deal. Bill
  3. wildebill308
    So where did you get your information? I get mine from the NYSTA web site. I have been driving the Thruway since before it opened. Did you know if you have an out of state EZ-Pass and use it in NY the charge is a little higher? Yet it is and has been cheaper to use the EZ-Pass over cash or mail in billing.
  4. wildebill308
    They have always charged more if you don't have a pass. Bill
  5. wildebill308
    Yes absolutely, especially in the North East. One outher benefit of using major toll roads/for instance I-95 North of NY. (never cross the GW bridge) You can find good rest areas with gas stations you can get in and out of. Yes I have driven on the back roads in New England. The good roads are all North South routs. When you go East West not so much. Many like US-2 are not bad but harder to get any place and hard to find good stops. US-1 can be a nightmare of traffic during the summer. We did a rally at Moody Beach RV Campground and it could take 30 min+ to get out of the parking lot with the toad. Like Richard said going through places like Chicago with out using toll roads would be just totally aggerating. Getting around the local traffic is totally worth the tolls. One outher big thing when you don't know the roads or the area. Using Toll roads are all most all safe to drive in your RV. No low (un marked) bridges, no bad big surprises. Bill
  6. wildebill308
    If you can't figure it out I would call and see what they say. Address: 11280 N Solar Canyon Way Surprise, AZ, 85379 Bill
  7. wildebill308
    If that doesn't work I would try to call Winnebago Inc. Customer Care (800) 537-1885 - Toll Free (641) 585-6939 Wish I knew more but that's the first I heard about a password for the codes. Hope that works. If that doesn't work try calling National Indoor RV Centers in Phoenix, AZ 520-442-2500 Bill
  8. wildebill308
    Welcome to the forum. That is interesting, that is the first I have heard of a login password for/to reset codes. Bill
  9. wildebill308
    equinus, welcome to the forum. On my last coach when the propane furnace would mess up I would do this. Turn the thermostat off. Remove the front cover of the thermostat. I had a fuse there. Remove the fuse and test it. Now re install it put the cover back on and set the thermostat to the correct zone and mode for furnace heat. See if that works. For some reason removing the fuse and interrupting the power would fix most of the problems. Bill
  10. wildebill308
    That is amazing. I am with Carl on what is it? My guess is older bus conversion where the driver sat lower than the passenger level. Bill
  11. wildebill308
    Ge isn't it nice some are moving in the right direction. Bill
  12. wildebill308
    True they have stuff that can be hard to find. Good to see you on. Bill
  13. wildebill308
    JohnBo, welcome to the forum. Yes an older post but still good information. Just so you know you can pull your own engine and transmission oil test for about $30.00 each kit. You just need a vacuum pump and some plastic tubing. I like the pump from J&G. https://jglubricantservices.com/productsservices.html I use Blackstone for the kits and lab because you don't need to pay in advance for the kits. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/free-test-kits/ Let me know what the test/inspection results are. Bill
  14. wildebill308
    Pictures may help. Have you compared them (by dimension) to the 6V golf cart battery's at Sam's or Costco? Bill
  15. wildebill308
    https://www.newmarcorp.com/wheelchair-accessible/ 5 different models, gas and diesel. Bill
  16. wildebill308
    I think he needs to talk to a different dealer. Bill
  17. wildebill308
    seanbrown427, welcome to the forum I would run it over some scales just to check what it does weigh ready for the road. Then you might be able to adjust your air preshure. Bill
  18. wildebill308
    It is amazing to me how many people I see having a problem geting their toad un hooked. I have seen the pins that have been hammered on till they were mushroomed. Bill
  19. wildebill308
    I suspected that and think Joe is right. Thought they might be an upgrade on my coach next time. Might not have enough room for them. A1kaching, You can buy the more aggressive tread but I don't think they will be the answer to going off road. It has been my experience once the tread fills up and the tier spins. Get some mats like the off roaders use to get out of a tight situation. The good news you have jacks to help pick the coach up to get them under the tires. Bill
  20. wildebill308
    Dsabers, Just a suggestion when un hooking. Start your toad/truck, put it in drive so that it puts just the slightest preshure on the tow bar. Now put it in park. Now when you hit the release levers on the tow bar the truck is in a "neutral position" so it is ease to pull the pins to disconnect. The second thing the truck is in park and won't roll. Bill
  21. wildebill308
    Just wonder what lead you to believe the alternator was the root cause of the problem? Have you disconnected the battery grounds? Bill
  22. wildebill308
    So you have a King Aire Toy Hauler. That would be interesting. Bill
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