kaypsmith

The branded name is Premium, the condenser is actually Toshiba, a trusted name in the mini-split market. I ordered off of ebay for $489.00 with free shipping, when I ordered 15 foot supply lines which worked great, the condenser is pre charged and was slightly overfilled. I did the uninstall of the old system and the installation of the new. I did call a local hvac dealer and paid them $150.00 to come out to evacuate the evaporator and lines and release the refrigerant from the condenser and levelized the refrigerant. The unit is also a heatpump which works very well here in the south because it does heat very well if outside temp is 40% or more.

295 is 20 mm wider than 275, about 3/4 inches, the second number is in percentage to width, so 75% of 295mm width versus 80% of 275mm which pretty much equals out in circumference and or diameter. Dual spacing will a little less and should taken into consideration.

No problem with venting, it is the old AC bay, the entire door is stainless steel mesh just like when it was new, the old 24 volt fan pulled air through the condenser coil which was mounted on the door, then blew downwards on the pavement below. The fan was an 18 inch standard fan. I mounted the unit 9 inches from the back wall allowing the new unit to be able to pull through that hole in the floor as well as having at least 10 inches clearance on either side if the unit and another 9 inches clearance across the top. The condenser fan blows the hot air far enough past the coach to keep the hot air from being inhaled back through the unit. Notice the white PVC pipe to the left of the condenser, that is the evaporator drain, I used a 3/4" hose bibb style fitting directly below the floor of the bay, allowing me to attach a regular water hose while parked to carry the drain-off almost anywhere downhill away from the campsite. If you recall, there was a post awhile back trying to figure a way to take the run-off away, that's where I got the idea to make use of this idea, LOL. I wanted to use mini-splits when I first converted, but no vender would sell me the units back then for fear that there may be leaks because of vibration going down the road. I used flare seals to help prevent this from happening, and there have several others that used this system and have logged upwards of 50K on at least two of those. So here I am, another guinea pig, and as I stated in the first post, I wanted to test some before announcing this project. Also as stated this unit is an energy sipper, startup draws 6.9 amps, with the unit blowing maximum in 94% outside, 4.2 amps, and at idle in early morning, outside temp 79%, just under 1 amp. With inverter technology, the condenser never turns off, it simply slows down, then as the thermostat calls for more cooling, the unit speeds up at a slow pace all the way to wide open which in turn stops the need for pulling a large load starting the unit at any given moment, by the way, I still use an old modified wave inverter 3K, and it runs fine on that, meaning I can actually cool while driving without running the generator. One other note, I was prepared to add a baffle/diverter on the mesh door to divert air flow, but the mesh is already designed for that purpose and with test results already in, I don't believe that will become necessary.

Thought I would share my latest mod to the coach. When I purchased the bus back in 2009, the bus air did not work and that was no big deal because I have a generator large enough to run two roof units which are pretty comfortable except while traveling in 95+ degree daylight. So last winter I started a project of adding a mini-split unit to the coach. I first finally removed the old condenser unit, just behind the drivers seat and underneath the bus, this gave plenty room for the new condenser. I went with a 12,000 btu unit which uses inverter technology and is super quiet, a real energy sipper. I installed the inside evaporator inside (of course) above the window just behind the driver seat, this puts the air directly on my wife who sits in the co-pilot seat, and the biggest complainer about being too warm while traveling. I designed the unit to be run without the rear air on, but with the front rooftop running at the same time. Well to my surprise and with a couple of trips behind us in some very hot days, so far we have not needed to run the roof air while traveling at all, and the coach is staying very comfortable without either roof units so far this year. And one other point, the drain is just behind the left front tire, leaving no drain from the roof when the rooftops are not running.

You may be done with the post, but I only stated what California DMV is currently posting. I don't know how old your information is but laws are subject to change from time to time. My son in-law is a retired deputy sheriff, and his son my grandson is currently a deputy in our county, neither of them really know the actual law at any given time. The purpose of this forum is to make anyone who wants to know about a current issue get familiar with the circumstances for what they are inquiring. Most of us feel that the correct answers should be given and if not others can correct them, this is all that I am doing is correcting your misstatement regarding 3000# maximum is the law. All states are not the same and all inquiring have the right to know the correct answer to their question. Have a great day!

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12 Trailer Brakes_ In California, brakes are required on any trailer coach or camp trailer having a gross weight of 1500 lbs. or more. Usually the braking capacity on tow vehicles is good; however, it may not be good enough to safely stop the several hundred to several thousand additional pounds that your trailer weighs. Most conventional and fifth-wheel trailers have electric brakes, activated by a controller in the tow vehicle. The controller automatically coordinates the tow vehicle and trailer braking so the two systems work together when the brake pedal is applied. The controller can also be helpful in stabilizing a trailer that sways because of bad road conditions. Manually applying the trailer brakes by using the hand lever on the controller will stabilize a trailer that is likely to sway. Folding camp trailers and boat trailers are usually fitted with surge brake systems which operate separately from the tow vehicle's brakes. Surge brakes are applied by a mechanism attached to the receiver/ball connection. As the tow vehicle slows, the forward motion of the trailer compresses the mechanism which in turn applies the trailer brakes. Motorcycle trailers do not need brakes unless the weight exceeds 1500 pounds gross. If you install brakes on your motorcycle trailer, be sure the brakes do not brake harder than the motorcycle or the motorcycle may flip backwards over the trailer when the brakes are applied. The brakes must always be properly adjusted. Maybe you should re-read the laws concerning trailers and motorcycle trailers in California, the link provided above is from the California DMV, you can do your own search or follow the link above, it states motorcycle trailers do not need brakes unless gross weight exceeds 1500#. I'm not trying to argumentative, only pointing out that different states have different rules concerning these type of situations. If you live in California, you should know the law, but it is hard to contradict the rules that are stated in your own states DMV publications regarding these circumstances. You may never be stopped or checked, but in the event of an accident you should know that your insurance carrier may refuse to pay a claim if you are not in compliance with the laws in the state that you are operating within. Good luck, when in doubt, check it out.

not under 3000 lbs The statement (under 3000) is not true in all states. New York and North Carolina is actually under 1000#, California, Nevada, and Idaho, are under 1500#, Mississippi is under 2000#, most of the others is under 3000#, while still others are actually higher. One needs to know the laws for all states that you are going to travel through and obey them because there is no reciprocal agreement between states concerning the braking laws. Here is the best list as of this date. http://www.brakebuddy.com/towing-laws.html

The 120 V ac sure needs to be completely isolated from chassis ground for several reasons including just getting a tingle to becoming lethal if a person touches that metal skin on the side of the coach. Also LED lights and 12 volt dc devices can misbehave. Even the generator should not be bonded to chassis, it should be mounted in rubber with the ground strap bonded to the transfer switch and the ac circuit should have an isolated ground bus to and through the transfer switch. Richard, I realize that you already know this, but added for the reason of making others reading the post aware. Good luck finding the problem.

This is an odd situation, downloads are usually higher because the provider normally throttles the upload speed.

I am wondering, when you set meter to AC, do you see any voltage, if so how much?

As Carl and others have stated, put a tag (trail) axel under it, there is no comparison to rides in even the same brands. IMHO for what it is worth.

When you use leveling blocks under the tires to help carry the load, it will lesson some of the movement of the coach that naturally occurs. The coach actually feels more stable when the load is lessoned on the jacks. Just one of the reasons that many of us use leveling blocks, it also takes some of the load off the jacks causing them to last longer with fewer repairs necessary over time.

I went to J.C. Penny for my last one, pricey but they order to fit any size.

That's great, WE might patent it, LOL. Here is a 10 foot in NJ, has trailer and electric motor, can always sell unused items. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jon-Boat-10-Foot-Discovery-Explorer-Trailer-Prowler-Electric-Motor/264361449817?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Da4895764d3584805a1efac57a6de5ef3%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D264361449817%26itm%3D264361449817&_trksid=p2045573.c100667.m2042

Looks great!

A simple volt ohm meter is the best friend for troubleshooting electrical malfunctions. You stated that you had already ordered new bulbs, but you need to know first is there any voltage available to make them work. Best to drag out the old friend VOM and start at the headlights. With headlights on, pull the plug off of the bulbs and test for voltage, both low and high, if voltage is there on both high and low, then the bulbs will most probably fix the problem, if no voltage, then use a test lead to a known good ground if voltage then a bad ground. Use this method all the way back to the headlight switch, if voltage there, then move on to the relays and circuit breakers. Most likely you will find those circuits in the chassis fuse panel which is usually placed under the dash, but sometimes under a panel on the left sidewall of a motorhome, or under the drivers seat. Hope this helps. And as Rich said, welcome to the forum.

As Rich pointed out many questions before a complete answer can be given. For instance you have dish network, but do you have one or two receivers and do the receivers using coax from the dish, on roof or portable. Does your current receiver or receivers have HDMI capabilities now, if not you will need to replace the receivers with later technology. If you replace the receivers you probably will need to replace the dish to latest technology capable of running the new receivers. Dish network does offer a Wally/Joey system which will send signals to different tv's and there are wireless transmitter/receivers available from dish network. I would place a call to dish network and ask for an RV expert to help satisfy your desires, and if that doesn't work come back here for more advice.

I beg to differ on the assessment that at knee-height or floor level is just as well, the industry standard is five feet. https://www.sterlinghomeinspections.com/sterling-home-inspection-blog/2013/12/11/carbon-monoxide-detector-placement-dos-and-donts/

Yes many systems have low coolant sensors that detect when the coolant is actually low, not overtemp will trigger the check engine light. My rig has this device built into the equalization reservoir since the unit uses two radiators, this device actually shuts down the engine as well as gives a low coolant light. I know this because I had it happen after a mechanic had worked on the engine, drained the coolant, and failed to burp the system after refilling, wouldn't you know it went dead in the busiest intersection at the busiest time of the year.

Great to hear that you just purchased diesel pusher, congratulations! Have you driven the coach enough know whether you will need the safety bar system, and know if you need to upgrade system for ride and wind issues? Most pushers have a pretty unique ride from the factory compared to any gas coach that I have operated in the past. If this is a used coach and you have already experienced problems, I would start with 4 corner weighing and adjusting tire pressure to match those weights, then after that I would suggest 4 wheel alignment. As for comfort drive I really don't know if can be installed or not. Good luck with the new acquisition and keep us posted.

I don't find a refresh button within the mentioned settings for windows 10, apple does support this option. You must have created a restore disk for the option to go back on windows10. Many manufacturers does create a partition on the same hard drive to enable one to do this but not all do. To determine if yours has one you can look at the drive partitions on your computer, if there is one, it will show up as a very small drive included usually labeled (OS). This is only true if you upgraded to Windows10 from Windows8.

Fuse or circuit would be the first place to look. Also verify if the fans spin freely if not possible fan motors have gone bad, but unlikely that both stopped at the same time, if one turns freely but the other one does not, this could be cause for fuse blowing.

My last trip to Tennessee last September, I was cruising I-75 at near 70 mph, many trucks passed me but a couple passed at very excessive speeds, I passed both of those before getting to my destination. I passed both of those on the side of the road with blowouts. I doubt that they both were using cheap China tires, just excessive speeds.

11.00 X 22.5 will fit on 7.5 rim, I wonder what the height and or circumference difference would be.

Have you walked around the coach with the engine running and with all air tanks full to listen for air leaks? It seems pretty uncommon for air ride to not try to raise at least one end or corner of the coach.