jleamont

Carl, I'm with Richard on this, have TCC install an Echo charger while its there, the chargers are around $100.00 and it will do it all for you.

alkmona, Welcome the the FMCA forums! ADCO makes a nice cover, different options to choose from. link; https://www.adcoprod.com/

YUP. It actually pays me to pull them at year 5. As long as we can swing it in year 5, it's a good deal. I have a fleet up here that pays for them, they run them off on dump truck tag axles, since they just get scrubbed off fast. They prefer virgin tires (non recap) as the caps fail faster from the scrubbing.

My pull and sell works like this because of my common truck tire size 12R22.5. At year 5 they are worth $225.00 each at year 6 they are worth $150.00 year 7 $0. It pays for me to pull them earlier and sell them off, I already have a buyer. At Year 7 they are useless no matter the condition as they will be going onto dump trucks and they will be to old for DOT inspections.

I agree with him they do not degrade as fast. If it were me I'd replace the steer now and roll the drives for another year and have them rechecked. I have my steer on a 5 year pull and sell plan. Drives 6 depending on how their semi annual inspections go.

Richard, what is the date codes on them?

jkhac, how long has this unit been parked and can the mobile mechanic pull ECM codes? When you step on the throttle, does any engine light come on or is it on already?

Happy Easter!!

Rich, HPCR if it is a 6.7L. Will also have a DPF and EGR.

RayIn, sorry to hear about your wife! I had a tandem axle cargo trailer a few years back, It came with Carlisle tires from the factory. ST225/75R15 was the size, I replaced them at year 8 when they had 4/32 of tread remaining.

I peeled our last coach and re-decal'd it from miscellaneous RV decals I found on EBay. Took me 8 hours to scrape a 31' Class C, clean it up, probably took me another 6 hours to buff the oxidation off the gel coat to hide where the gel coat hadn't seen UV for 15 years. I ended up doing my own thing with the decals, the factory design pattern was ugly and dated. This also saved me a lot of money. The decals purchased on EBay might have cost $300.00, when it was done it took 10 years off of the coach's appearance.

Richard, nice workmanship!

If this goes like every other post I have read, you might want to do the RV armor now. I have heard where it takes months to get parts from FR. I sincerely hope this is not the case with your coach! Keep on them, might also warrant a call to FR customer support, so they understand you are not going to wait for them.

I guess I am all alone with Satellite technology, or shall I say, lack there of. Our HR also has in motion Tracstar, I have never used it. We connect to the CG cable, if none I use the Batwing antenna, which surprisingly works very well. About the only time I use the TV is at night waiting for everyone to get ready for bed and in the AM to watch local news.

rvin4now, with the salesman switch ON, make sure you have the same voltage on both large lugs. Since you know you have 12.5 at the house batteries, you should see the same on both lugs.

M&G has a version 2.0 that is very similar to AF1. Or their traditional system is compatible with a gasser if you purchase that portion of the kit (air compressor).

08, try to locate the ground to the generator, make sure it’s clean and properly connected. While at it double check 12v power to the generator.

Glad to hear! keep us posted, i'm sure an upgrade on ours is inevitable.

The one thing I really love about the pump we have is its variable speed, so it doesn't pulse, it slows down. It will pulse if you have one faucet slightly cracked open, but its very quiet. The more faucets you open, if outside you can hear it wind up and it holds it own. The last coaches pump reminded me of the music in the background of the Jaws Movie, very loud and annoying! If you opened a 2nd faucet with that pump, both faucets went to a trickle, it was a 3.5 GPM.

Olyeller, welcome to the FMCA family and forums! Sorry to hear of your wife’s passing. Congratulations on the new RV, glad you are hitting the road and enjoying yourself. You will most likely gain a few friends on here but you might want to also look into a chapter, that’s where you will really meet friends. Should you need some help with that let me know. If you have any questions on towing gear post in “Toad-towing behind motorhome” section we’d be glad to help. Keep in touch and check in on occasion, there is usually some good conversation on here.

Oldmarine, call customer support for your current inverter manufacturer. They will know all of the ins and outs with this conversion. I was going to upgrade ours a few years back, they told me the same thing DD just said, control panel is different. on a good note the cable in the coach walls was not changed. So back to your question, In our case it is plug and play on our Xantrex.

inws9, Welcome to the FMCA forums! Did he have any suggestions? My first thought is you have ample ground clearance, I would have them remade out of heavier angle iron and add a few rows, perhaps he can source the materials from a local fabrication shop and install it? This happened to a friends Trailer made by Cross Roads, Their gray tank fell out onto the ground and flooded their campsite. Theirs was under warranty, the repair made by the dealer was pathetic, they added pipe strapping between the current flat stock. Wasn't much longer after that they traded it in, new one, really no different, but that tank hasn't fallen out yet. So based off of my small experience with these, the mobile RV mechanic would be your best option to modify it once and for all. I'd have him check the gray tank as well and come up with some solutions, if you want let us know what he is thinking and maybe attach some current photos, i'm sure we could help come up with a viable solution.

It is located on the air intake manifold 1/2 way between the air charge cooler clamps and the cylinder head, passenger side of the engine on a DP. Its not likely to be an intermittent fault unless there is moisture in it or in the connector causing it to intermittently malfunction. You could remove it and clean it, mostly just carefully remove the carbon build up, check the connection for corrosion and put it back on. Do not spray anything inside of it. #10 is the connector below

Differential pressure sensor is within the exhaust aftertreatment system, The low voltage on the 5 volt (reference voltage line) will need to go to a Cummins dealer for repair. It could be an electrical connector somewhere on the engine with corrosion in it or it could be a faulty ECM. That will all take a professional with the proper tooling to troubleshoot voltage resistance. The Differential pressure sensor either needs to be cleaned (notorious for carbon build up) or could need replacement, if needs replaced it will most likely need calibrated. The wires under the slide, that could be your accelerator pedal codes. Certainly worth a chance, clear the codes and road test it. The sensor should resemble this;

Puff, nice work! That should last a while!