jleamont

Not likely. Can you open your floor and look at the lift pump? What year and engine do you have?

Yes!! Ours in very cold, never mushy. As mentioned above its all about planning. If you have an automatic generator start/stop option then the planning gets easier. Should you forget while boondocking the coach has your back.

Here is one topic on this subject;

Nice work, clean as well! The Amish design is much better, should do well for you. Plus it’s a Dometic, IMHO much more robust box than the other ones.

Typically a few hours and it will feel colder to the touch. If you have a temp gun, hit it now and in 2 hours. You will know if its working. Our gas absorption refrigerators we have owned to cool the entire unit down was 24 hours.

kdflyer, welcome to the FMCA forums! This is the only shop in Florida that has impeccable service that I am aware of; http://talinrv.com/

Carl, Bus Kote is a great product. I have considered putting over our Fiberglass roof for its thermal resistance properties, mold resistance and it seals up the raw unpainted fiberglass that we have facing upwards plus if installed correctly has a 10 year warranty.

As with most RV upgrades what is YOUR return on investment for your comfort? Lith batteries for us would be an absolute waste of money. Since we all use these for different purposes some might only need enough house battery to start the generator. We do not boon dock, unless an over night for rest. Since we typically travel in summer the generator would be running for AC. Lately we’ve planned campgrounds along our route to give the generator a rest. I installed 6v AGM’s, went with the AGM only because our coach is plugged in all winter and where it sits I cannot get to the house batteries to check the water level without moving the coach.

JEP, welcome to the FMCA forums! This is about as wireless as you can get that I am aware of that will be dependable and function properly; https://m-gengineering.com/products/ If you have a vehicle compatible with their original system all you have between the coach and the toad is an air line. Its also one of the few that is truly 100% fully proportional.

I hate to say it but that’s a common practice in the RV, Truck and Automobile repair/dealership industry. Everyplace I’ve ever worked at had a hand full of mechanics (not all of them)that practiced this on a daily basis and management turned a blind eye until called out. I left each one when I was told to cross over “so you can make the big bucks”. No thanks! Best bet, find a local small shop, develop a relationship and you’ll be much better off.

YES!! The slightest bit of corrosion in a connection will make the system inoperable. When I say “slightest” I mean barely detectable by the human eye its DONE! The manufacturers should have used gold pins they are so sensitive!

Give these folks a call. I understand they provide a DIY option; https://www.seatdoctors.com

Hydronic Heating system in lieu of a propane furnace? I would cap off the heater hoses up to the front (back at the engine), see if it still leaks down. There is a lot of places where that coolant could go while running down the highway with little to know trace between the engine and the dash on a pusher.

Very common point of failure. If it turns on take a line off of it and see if you can stick your finger to the port (suction). I’ve heard them run but not pull vacuum before, don’t get fooled.

Normally they are up front near the air filter housing. They look like this (in most RV applications) https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Electrical-Vacuum-Select/dp/B001KQF6PC/ref=asc_df_B001KQF6PC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312462950315&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12688683149966818756&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007361&hvtargid=pla-493903279818&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70635887228&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312462950315&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12688683149966818756&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007361&hvtargid=pla-493903279818

I replaced my thermostat at the same time. I poured the pre mixed antifreeze down into the block while the t-stat was out, installed the t-stat and filled the rest of it through the radiator cap (also replaced at that time) went much smother.

Carl, https://shipshewanacampground.com/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_24e5af1d6cf4a9b6ca4573ee96257f133e2b444d-1627914061-0-gqNtZGzNAg2jcnBszQeO

Do you have Aquahot?

Bandit, both sides of the front tank have air? Ours, while older has a split tank up front, one side is the wet tank and the other front air supply (it looks like one tank). There is a check valve between them.

They do not make engines for on the road anymore BUT they do make replacement engines should you have a catastrophic failure and parts are readily available. I wouldn't be concerned with a CAT product as long as its not a 2007-2009 engine model year with a DPF. Id run from that!

calkins14, we purchased a dinette and sofa recliner from this company. It’s 6 years old still looks new; https://shop4seats.com/?ar_clx=yes&ar_campaign=9940376292&ar_ad=432560301774&ar_adgroup=103084221560&ar_channel=google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgYy-k5r-8QIVTGxvBB35TgEyEAAYASAAEgLV_vD_BwE

My current situation. They’ve been cooking all night. These pork shoulders look amazing.

Wow, you guys hijacked Puffs post and really went off track. Let’s keep it where it belongs.

AMEN!!

I guess I’m spoiled with our first DP. Monaco has the chassis power distribution in a dedicated compartment in the left front. Every wire-fuse-relay is labeled. Right rear has a dedicated compartment for the house. Again, all labeled with a schematic molded in plastic riveted to the compartment door. Now if something happens in between with all of that wire….. 😑