jleamont

Brian, how long do you hear the pump run before it begins to crank over and ultimately start up? I'll be using ours in 5 hours, i'll time it and let you know.

He must be on mobile, I have notice when on mobile the signature doesnt display on your phone. I am on a PC at the moment and I can see your signature 004 Safari Trek 31SBDFord F53-V10 20,500lb ChassisKoni FSDs, Rear Trac Bar, Rear Firestone Air Bags, Cheap Swaybar FixTires Balanced with Hunter GSP9700 Road Force Vibration Control System

This is the one I just replaced, it lasted 13 months https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI54140

YUP, its a game with us to see how long until they are on the side of the road with a destroyed tire or upside down in the shoulder. I always laugh and tell my wife "tomorrow there will be one more post on the web blaming the tire manufacture for that failure".

I have actually read about this on TireMan's website. I'm one of those people that when free knowledge is present I read up on it. This is not a good idea as a light truck tire is not designed to scrub where a trailer service tire is. When you think about it, makes sense, trailer axles do not steer so they will scrub in tight or not even so tight maneuvers. Sidewall construction is not designed for this application. I had two service trailers when I owned the mobile truck service business, both trailers wore out the tires at the 9 year mark, not once did I experience any tire failures. They both also had cheap Chinese tires on them. I truly believe most of those failures are not the tires fault! I will admit neither of them ever broke the 65mph speed limit on the tires and they were loaded to the max GVWR. I also made certain the trailers were level (parallel to the ground) when coupled to the trucks. I'm sure he can go into a better description on the scrubbing differences in tire design.

Hope Dodge paid some for that advertisement.

Bill, I'm betting the solenoid failed. We have had this coach for 4 years, I'm on solenoid #2. I just bypassed it two weeks ago, done with it! I want to shut the power off to the house side ill turn the battery disconnect master switch. If yours is like ours Monaco put a diagram in the electrical bays to identify the components.

GREAT Catch!

Mostly here. IRV is ok, but a handful of the people on there tend not to be friendly, little camaraderie if any at all. Rvillage is tough to navigate and I'm with Herman on the constant asking where you are gets old quick. Social Media works well for me giving a helping hand, not so for receiving, little tech knowledge on there. I often post links from this forum on there to migrate folks to FMCA.

I do the same thing, got my DW doing it also. I will often recite the vehicle code, and count out all of the defects. The problem is when they are really bad it angers me as I know this person could ultimately cause an accident at some innocent persons expense. DW had a TT pass her (she was running 75) this guy had to been pushing 85 up the interstate, when they guy got along side she backed off and low and behold BOOM!! One tire exploded and took the side skirting off, no damage to her she just ran over his debris that fell off the side. That was her first tire exploding experience, she said it sounded like someone shot at her. Joe, we could chat for hours, and laugh and laugh

We run the 10w-30 Shell rotella T6 on engines that are labeled 15w40. Approved and signed off on by Mack, Volvo, Cummins and Detroit. Not a one road tractor has a sticker stating that’s a suitable choice. But their engineering team knows it and approved it. As mentioned above we run it on engines that are 20 years old and they have exceed 1 Millon miles using it.

Edain, so you put a single pole bulb into a double pole outlet? What was the bulb number 1156/1157 style or 3156/3157? I'm trying to picture if you shorted to GND or other light circuit. Rich, was Freightliner Module happy in 1999 or did they jump in with that stuff later on? Does it do it with Hazards on also? If you are sure the grounds are clean I wonder if it back fed into the turn signal switch and damaged it. Most often everything passes through that switch, some have a small circuit board built in and diodes. I'm not familiar with that switch design in 99 on a Freightliner chassis.

When I swapped mine to LED the turn signals would'nt blink if the parking lights were on. Some locations on the Motorhome will switch the polarity of the power to the bulbs to make them alternate off of the other lights on the circuit. The LED lights will not function when this occurs, so you have you block the current that is back feeding. I had to install a bridge rectifier in the supply lines. Output wires (marked + and -) with polarity to match the LED bulb. Then connect the supply lines to the other two inputs. It doesn't matter which one connects to which. I am and was lost, perhaps Kay could chime in, he helped me with it. Rectifier parts; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9GMBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X.uPzbR8F8998

WOW, there's a name I haven't heard in a LONG time . Right up there with Brown and Dorsey.

Just a thought, this all didn't begin to happen with an LED light change over by chance? Any LED's on the circuit?

YUP, that sure looks like it! First thing I would do is remove the zip tie and electrical tape, look at the connections for corrosion. Also don't rule out the pinched wire under all of it

Billkish, Welcome!

your problem go away or do I need to pack extra tools in 3 weeks

Carl, due to the Semi Monocoque chassis my basements are pass through but only two, they do not cross into one another (wall between) like a bus, that causes less basement storage. Most are wide open you just pick what door you want to open to access it. You'll see it in a few weeks. I have tools and parts on one drivers side and the other has the full slide tray, so I can pull it all the way out either side which is a HUGE help. The first compartment is my fuel tank and excess filters, chassis fluid storage, sewer hoses and ladder. I am going to re position my fuel pump on the right side so its not blocking access from the right side, that will help a lot and the end goal is to move all the tools and parts to that old propane bay up front, to free up space in the one pass through. When I set up the slides go out last so I have full access to everything without smacking my head, then level.

No slides..I don't want the problems associated with them. We have 2 now and its useless floor space. Thank goodness they are on the drivers side...well if they were on the passenger side I wouldn't have bought this coach! Slides are an excuse to think less about the interior layout, get sloppy with placement of furniture and are bling to most people, the more you have the better, no thanks! I really love my basements on the drivers side being shorter due to the slide I also love banging my head every time I want something from that side also, or better yet crawling on the gravel in shorts to access the basement. If you ever have an opportunity to look at Kay's bus you will understand where I am coming from and how proper placement of utilities and furniture make all the difference. He has ample interior space to stretch out and a lot of basement storage.

One time I almost did when we stayed here; http://www.apachefamilycampground.com/ You can see that long pier from the photos and it would have been great!

Got ya, makes sense!

Rich, thanks! I plan on running this for another 8-10 years if I can. Next coach will be an older bus type metal skinned body 45' unit. Older Prevost or something along those lines preferably no slides, I just want simple, that's it!