desertdeals69

I would not consider a combined unit because if one failed you would have to replace both.

When I had my coach painted I was offered the 3m shield. The cost was $1250 so I asked how much the repaint the front and was quoted $800. Its been 3 years and over 22000 miles and it still looks good enough that I don't need a repaint.

I would go with Roadmaster. All of their parts for the tow bar are made by them in house. I've toured the factory and seen the parts being machined and assembled. Some of the other manufacturers have parts made off shore and then assembled in their factories. Roadmaster does free inspections at the major rallies.

I like all the features that Tire Minder has. Buy before the end of the year and get a digital tire gauge free according to their ad in the Dec FMCA magazine.

The one thing I noticed when traveling on flat level road with no wind, when the microwave is turned on the mpg drops 1/4 mpg. Usually the microwave is only on for a minute or two. We have used the crock pot for several hours without problem. I think the key is to have a large enough alternator. We have a 10 cu ft residential fridge. Once I had a problem with the dash heat and used a 1500 watt electric quartz heater running off the inverter for 1400 miles in the middle of winter.

The rating of an alternator is at the max output and not continuous output which is roughly one half the max rating. When I installed my ISB Cummins into my coach the stock alt was a Delco about the size of an automotive one. It was 160 amp rated which was the highest for that frame size. I had 6 6 volt and 2 group 31 12 volt batteries and I burned up 2 alternators. I went to the next larger frame size Delco and had it built to 245 amps and it has been charging as it should for 13 years and over 100k miles. We use the microwave on the inverter while going down the road without any problems.

Sealand makes a tool, its like a tongue depressor but made out of plastic and it is rough on one side. Works pretty good most of the time.

I have changed seals on several different toilets and I never touched the valve assembly. All I did is loosen the big "hose" clamp, take the 2 plastic clamping pieces, lift the bowl off and replace the gasket and seal. Total time to do the job is less than 10 minutes.

I still flip the breaker before I plug or unplug out of habit. What Tom says is correct that no current draw is present until the surge protector closes, which on mine is about 3 minutes so technically it is not necessary to turn the breaker off when plugging in. Breakers are not designed to be used as switches and it shortens the life of the breaker. I was told this by several different electricians.

If you want to use Ca 95 you will turn off of I40 before the river and if you us Az 95 its 9 miles after the river. There is a new highway from I40 towards Havasu that is nice and wide.

Tom suggestion on doing a test run on water usage and holding tank capacity is right on. The kind of charger you have and battery bank will dictate how long you need to run the generator. One of the advantages of having an inverter/charger is the charge rate is much higher than most chargers have. They also have a three stage charging which is better for the longevity of the batteries.

That is why I use air brakes with a proportional relay valve and separate air tank so the toad brakes are only on for the amount of braking of the motorhome.

I would check with the people that installed the brake system and then with Blue Ox.

Your error is easily corrected, you have to know the revs per mile and the rear end gear ratio and find someone with the laptop that has the right program. Every time I have changed my ratio, 4 times, I had my friend recalibrate my speedo. It takes about 5 minutes.

One thing to consider the larger the capacity of the battery the longer it will last with a given load, however it has to be recharged.

The inverter is a Xantrex SW3012, a 3000 watt, pure sine wave, with control panel. The solar panels are Renogy branded and also the charge controller is Renogy branded, 40 amp MPPT. The charge controller has 3 stage charging. I would go with the AGM 6 volt batteries.

The tops of the batteries must be dry and clean, no acid collection from the vents. With moisture and acid residue that is a direct short.

If you use a charger be sure it is a smart charger so it won't over charge.

I installed a center mounted tank for my generator. It has a remote fill panel that consist of the standard threaded fitting, bleed screw and a rocker switch for the solenoid shut off valve.

Have engine running so you have hydraulic pressure.

Check to see if there are any extra wires on the battery side of the switches.

When I installed a residential fridge I was having trouble with my batteries lasting. I have 6 AGM 6 volt, 600 watt solar which would marginally keep the batteries up. After logging my current draw I noticed that my current seemed high. I was drawing between 9 and 12 amps on 12 volt when the refer was running, with the refer listed at 2.3 amps (10.1 cu ft). Then I changed the inverter and now my current draw is 3 to 5 amps on 12 volt. My solar system consists of 6 100 watt mono crystalline panels and most important a 40 amp MPPT charge controller, with 98% efficiency. The cost was under $1000.

If you go to a tank farm you will see tankers from just about every brand of fuel there. The additives such as octane boosters are added on delivery to the station.

A 1/2 drive extension is square and four sided and what is needed is a hex and is six sided. Drain plugs on the rear axle has a square hole, my is 1/2 inch.

This has been for many years. Both gas and diesel is stored in bulk and when a station gets a delivery of fuel if that station advertises a particular additive is in their fuel it is added when it is pumped into the underground tank. A lot of blending is done at the tank.