hermanmullins

Butch, Try this: with the engine running and someone outside the coach, so they can tell you if the coach begins to rise, dump your air and hold the button down. If and when the air dumps try putting the coach in gear and try to move it, all the while holding your finger on the dump button. See if your coach will stay low and move. I know the minute you let up on the dump button it is going to rise. Be sure that the area that you plan to move the coach over is flat with no, I say no high spots. With the coach lowered down you are getting the oil pan closer to the ground. Please remember that all the things you hear here are only suggestions and that you are on your own. Herman

Butch, My suggestion would be to dump your air and measure your coach. If it will go down enough, I would then try to find out if you can drive the coach forward with your finger on the dump button. My Monaco will start to rise to the Travel position as soon as I start the engine. Herman

astmi, Like the two Ladies talking about Saul dying. One asked, "Did they give him Chicken Soup?" and the other replied, "He's dead, it can't help." The first lady replied, "It couldn't HURT". The same applies to additives. It may not help but it can't hurt. Herman

Apollo78, Welcome to the Forum. Less then 1,700 miles per year for 34 years, Wow. What I see is an engine that has bearly broken in. With that few of miles what you may have is carbon build up, stuck rings or maybe valve stem seals bad. Does it blow a cloud of smoke when you start the engine? If yes, you may have bad valve stem seals letting oil drip pass the seal into the cylinder and it burns up when you start the engine. When you drive normal does it smoke or does it blow smoke when you really accelerate? That is a sign of stuck rings. There is some really good stuff you can get from a Boat dealer. It is used to de-carbon 2 cycle engines but work good on 4 strokes also, Some good additives to a fresh oil change my help to. The smoke coming into the cab may be from a bad crankcase ventilation valve. Stuck rings can allow what is known a Blow By. This will cause pressure to build up in the crank case and blow smoke out the vent and you may be getting smoke from there also. The 440 was a good old work horse of an engine. Give it some tender loving care and it will serve you well. A nice long trip may loosen up the engine and stop the smoking. Good Luck, Herman

Sorry for your lack of communication with Classic Coach Works. I'm old school, I always try to telephone companies and people before I use the internet.. Try on of these, 800-971-0017 or 863-510-0017. Good Luck Herman

Looks to me to be a Holiday Rambler. I don't know the model. Try going to monaco.com and check in Holiday Rambler. You may find it there. Herman

Jim, I can hear the DI now "DELUCO, GET YOUR BUT OVER HERE AND GIVE ME 50" I like that name. I digress. I found your carrier in a strange place. BLUE OX, try www.blueox.com. I didn't know they made carriers. They have one called "Overbilt SportLife III". Check it out. Herman

Jim, Just balance the load. Two racks, Honda on the front and the Harley on the rear.

Gentleman and Ladies, I have seen a trailer awhile back that would carry both a boat and a golf cart, ATV or even a Jeep, at the same time. The boat was loaded from the water. The trailer was pulled up and hydraulics raised the boat up and you were then able to load the next vehicle. I am sure it could have been adapted to a car and motor cycles. A google search for boat and car combination trailer might find the trailer I am speaking of. Herman

Say Cat, If I remember correctly it doesn't say what type of engine you have, diesel, gas ar electric. What is a requirement is the weight. You need a "Class B" if the motorized RV you drive exceeds 26,000 pounds. But look at it this way -- when you retake the written test you will ace it. I believe I have said this before, but for your area, Sherman is a good place to go to test. They are good folks and they like Motor Homes. Herman

Bill, FMCA will not give out Names and address. What they will do is contact the member and give them the information and let the member decide what to do with the message. Herman

Jim, Thank you for your service. There are several companies that offer lifts for Motor Cycles. What your cycle weights should help determine what kind of carrier you need. Do you tow a vehicle? There are carriers that have an extended receiver so you can still carry a cycle and tow at the same time. Google: Motor Cycle Carriers/RV. Herman

Bill, Call FMCA and ask for membership they will pass a message to F 368494. 800-436-3622 Herman

BD St., Sorry but you need to look again. I have seen rotors so badly warped that the pedal will move up and down when you apply the brake. Check with any garage and/or mechanic the you trust. Herman

Nalcom, Welcome to the Forum. When I took my written test in Texas, I took the test one day and had to schedule a date for the driving test. On my test I had to test the Air Brakes, drive a designated course, back up for 100 feet and parallel park the coach (40 footer). If you are in Texas P/M me and maybe I can be of some help. Herman

Brett, You may not believe it from my pretty face but that was how we did it 1956 when I was a mechanic at Doc Widemans Garage in University Park, Texas. At that time Sun Electric was the Finest Test Equipment made at that time. Herman

Brett spoke of using a Hydrometer to check each cell of a Battery. I had both of my chassis 12 volt Batteries test poor on my load tester. I took them both to Interstate to have them checked and replaced if necessary. One of the first things the tech did was get a tool and pop off the plates covering the cells he said that the acid was low. My comment to him was" When the Top of the Battery has a sign saying Maintenance Free and there are no removable caps for you to remove I took that to mean Maintenance Free"? They exchanged both Batteries at no charge. He and I still get along well. . Years ago there was a test you could do on your Battery. It was called the SUN 3 Minute Test (Sun Electric Automotive Test Equipment). What your did was to clean both + & - post. top off the fluid, put on the charger and connect a volt meter. Then turn on the charger to the max (45 amps at that time) for 3 minutes. Most Batteries would ready 10 to 12 Volts but begin to climb to 13.5 volts. However if the volt meter continued to climb on up to 16+ volts during the 3 minutes you has a Sulfated Battery. A Sulfated Battery means that over the life of a Battery the fluid got low enough to uncover the plates. Each time this happened flakes would fall off and build up under the plates until they shorted out the cell.. Each time you would charge the Battery it would work fine for most of the day but the next morning the Battery would be dead. Now after all that could kenk0001 have sulfated Batteries?? (I hope I spelled Sulfated correctly)

Mr Boyer, Like a vigilant owner I had both recalls done. On the second recall they installed the R-010 module. Worked fine at dealer and all the way home. Several weeks later when I turned the fridge on to get ready for a trip, same problem as yours. Wired around it like you did. I called my dealer, North Texas RV in Sherman, Texas. Bobby said to stop by and pick up a replacement and I could return the bad one when I got a chance. Bobby told me that Norcold was having a 50% failure rate in the R-010 Module. After I replaced the unit and gave NT RV the old one back it has worked ever since. The Module is like most all electronics. if it last 90 days then it will last for a long, long time. Maybe that is what Norcold is banking on.

cc, Welcome to the Forum. Any car can be towed four down. It only matters how much you are willing to spend. 4X4, Front axle disconnects (Front Wheel Drive), Rear Drive Shaft disconnect and transmission fluid pump. The question is how practical is it? Herman

40x, you are correct about the slide supports. I also am not too sure about putting a screen on top of the Ref. vent. I do think the vent screens that go on the access door to the fridge are OK to keep dirt dobber and wasp out. You are also correct about the fan. Too many mfgrs don't move enough air around the coils. Add a fan and keep it cool. Herman

Allegiance40x, I'm sorry but I don't think it is a good idea getting on the roof when it is wet and moving to the edge to sweep off water. It would be a better idea to bring in the slide a short way and put towels up to absorb the water. This could be done after, as cbenitiii said, you have lowered one sideof the coach so the water could drain off. Then you could use the towels to prevent a mess. It might be a good idea to also have the wipers on the slide checked. they may need to be adjusted or replaces so they can wipe the water off as the slide retracts.

zorro, I have a 2002 Monaco that has an external fill port. It has a regular garden hose cap on it. Your water tank is not pressurize. Your water pressure comes from the pump and a check valve the prevent the water from flowing back into the tank. Your water tank has a vent to allow the water to flow to the pump or to gravity drain the tank. If your water tank did not have a vent, the sides would be sucked in as you got water with the pump.

Bill, After we talked last night I remembered the topic about refrigerator vent. If you can try removing the vent cover up on the roof and check for obstructions, Since you did have a fan blowing try putting it back and check to see if you have air flow out the vent. At C/W out on West Reno (just around the corner from you) they have vent screens for the fridge.It keep critters from flying or crawling in the bottom of the unit. Have a good one and tell the DW Hi from us. Herman

Brian, Weclome to the Forum. For $10,000.00 on your first post you did well. Sorry for your problems. Herman

astmi, You can go to any A/C supply center and purchase Evap/Cond. Cleaner. Follow the directions and you should be OK. Herman