hermanmullins

Gramps, Most RVs have a DVD/Cassette player. Which can be connected to the TV with the audio/video cable. This leaves your coax connector open. If you have Dish or Direct your receiver has a coax connecter for the Sat. and one for the Ant. and one for the TV. The only place I can see a problem is with the rear TV. That one I will have to think about.

reid9439, Welcome to the Forum. After I have looked at the switch box in our MH, I wonder if I really need it. I can split my incoming coax from my bay for cable and the coax from my satalite dish into a splitter and then one coax to the back of my Receiver and use either one. If I want cable I can leave the receiver off and turn on the receiver when I need the satalite. I can then connect my dvd player into my TV. Therefore why do I need a box to connect them to my TV? Yes I know I have two TVs but that can be done by the coaxes also.

Howdy howdydoody, Welcome to the Forum. I beleive you mean a 2000 Newmar Mountain Aire? There should be a panel that has most all of the 12 volt fuses and relays on it. On our Monaco it is on the drivers side just in front of the front wheel. Check all of your cabinets and bays for such a panel. There should be a list of fuse size and component it protects. Hope this helps.

Brett, I was able to zero the guage by using a nine volt battery. When I connected the guage with out power it stayed on zero. But when I turned on the key the guage pegs out. My next try is to remove the sending unit wire from the guage, zero out the guage again and turn on the power with out the sender connected. If the guage stays zeroed then I will assume the sending unit wire or sending unit itself is grounded. My next step will be to reconnect the wire at the guage then unplug the wire from the sending unit reset the guage and turn on the power. If the guage still pegs out I will know there is a dead short some where in the wire, however if the guage doesn't move then I can assume the new sending unit is bad. Do you agree?

Pryzl1, Welcome to the Forum. Before you add extra insulation check with Onan for the recommended air space around the generator. It needs a certain amount of space for cooling and air circulation.

I contacted Monaco Tech. Service. Was told that the sending unit wire must have a dead short and that the best I could do was to replace(run) a new wire. I said 40 plus feet. "Yep" he said. The wire runs down the chassis rails. I wonder if they make a Bluetooth guage and sending unit. I will try to check out the obvious places where the wire could be grounded. Will let you know what I find.

Nice explanation. I reread Kevins post. He said that his furnace lit and ran on Battery. But when he was on shore power it did not. He then said it work when he got home but didn't say if he was on battery or shore power. Why or how could that make a differance?

Kevin, There is a unit that detects leaks and will shut off your gas supply. However if you were able to cook with gas then your valve is open. You said every thing was clean. Look in the burner tube to see if the wonderful Dirt Dobbers did their duty and built a nest inside of the tube. You might, in a well ventilated location, crack the gas line at the burner to see if you are getting gas to the burner. If you are, then it is in the burner itself. If not, it will be between the tank and the heater. Another thought, will you refrigerator work on LP? Same thought.

Kevin, Let me be the First to Welcome you to FMCA and The Forum. I always enjoy seeing young families coming into the club. I encourage you to seek out other couples to also join in the club so this fine organization can continue to provide the services and needs of RVers. Again Welcome, Welcome.

jwiedl, Welcome to the Forum. I feel for you and your Rally problems. That being said, Our clubs 1st Vice President picks the site for the next year. He or someone he designates, will visit the RV Park, discuss the needs for a Rally and see if the Park can supply the services. If all is acceptable he gets a signed contract from the park. The contract will state the parking fees and how many days before and after the rate will be good for. The exact dates of the Rally. How many coaches can be expected. Are there any pet restrictions, ect. The 1st VP will keep a copy of the contract and give a copy to the Wagon Masters. The visit will eliminate the problem you had Twin Lakes. We also encourage the Wagon Masters to visit the Park to see if there are any other thing that might require attention and for them to get to know the Owners or management. They can also check out the local attraction, Medical locations, Vets, restaurants and last but far from least where is the closest WalMart. Always check and investigate the location of your planned Rally.

IZ NEEDS SUM HEP!!!!! My oil pressure guage is pegged past 120 psi. I purchased a new guage and installed it. The minute I turned on the key it pegged again. I installed a new Sending unit. Guage is still pegged. I was able to reset the guage with a 9 volt battery. Reconnected it turned on the key and it pegged again. Has anyone out there had a similar problem? How was it fixed? It seems to be sending 12 volts straight to the guage. PS: New sending unit was a superseded P/N and had to have an adapter cable wired in pin K on the plug. 2002 Monaco Dynasty, Cummins 400 ISL, Allison 6 speed. :o

Same here. I will watch to see how this is solved.

343 coach, Like everyone else I thought you were looking for the coach heater not the dash air. I had a dash heater blower motor problem on my coach. I found the motor under and behind the dash panel on the co-pilots seat. It was in agreat location until you needed to repair or replace. Give that a look see. Hope this helps.

I'm so confused!!!! My coach is wired for 50 amp service. It will operate on 30 amp service also. But I can operate only 1 A/C at a time. I beleive each of you are saying the same thing but putting it in different words.

340coach, Welcome to the Forum. On our first coach there was a junction box under the bench seat. It was like a plennum(?) with duct work coming from it. The blower fan was located there. Hope you find yours. Winters coming on.

Roger, as Brett said, "Welcome to the Forum". You didn't say what kind of coach you have or what year model it is. This will have a lot of bearing on what the insurance company will do. If your coach is almost new and has a high value they might go ahead and repair it. If not they may decide to total it. Here are my thoughts: Since you are close to Florida,there is a really good company in the area that can totally rebuild the insides of your coach-- check with then. I believe their name and website is http://classiccoachworks.com They will know how long it would take to remove your interior and how long it would take to replace it. They might be able to give you a cost for the rewiring at the same time. If you fried the entire electrical system 120 and 12 volt, I am sorry to say it but it might be better to replace the coach then to repair it. If the rig is rewired from scratch I can foresee ghost and goblins popping up for some time. I am so sorry for your problems. Hope it works out for you and you get back on the road soon. If they rewire your coach you might consider having them install a surge protector in the rig.

Sorry for your mishap. However I can't understand how Workhorse has any thing to do with the problem with your engine. If you feel that you are owed something for your problem, you are looking for the wrong company to be angry with. Cummins made the engine and the fan that broke. You didn't say how many miles you have on your coach or how well it has been maintained. Sorry.

Joe, Welcome to RVing. The way to check for a draw on your batteries is to disconnect you positive cable from the post. Connect a volt meter between the + post and the + cable. If the meter registers voltage you have a draw. It is a long task but if you see voltage on the meter remove fuses one at a time if you still see voltage replace the fuse and pull the next one. If you remove a fuse and the voltage drops to zero that will be the one that has something drawing down your batteries. As Brett said you can use a hydrometer to check each cell. I have a load tester I got from Northern Tool, about $15.00. I check mine with it. I make sure the batteries a fully charged and check each one by them selves. One of the first fuses to pull would be the radio, it has a small draw for the memory. Good luck.

Welcome to the Forum. What kind of coach do you have? Your step should operate in 12 volt power. Did you by some chance turn off the battery switch? If so your step will not operate. You might also have a bad magnetic switch in your door, if so again your step won't operate. Let us know what you find.

gmullen, Welcome to FMCA and the Forum. We might be kin. My fathers family was from Kentucky and we spell it Mullins.

Check with Essex in Florida.(You can find them in Family Motor Coach Mag.) They found me a great rate when we bought our current coach. They got us a rate 2% less then the dealer and it was with Wacovia, now Wells Fargo. Be sure that you have some equity in your coach or that it hasn't dropped in value where you may have to pay off some of your current note to be able to refinance.

And all this time I thought it was nice that I knew that the pump was working. Bill dun tolded you well, Brett too.

dog, This type of unit is sold by many companies and make great claims to improving torque and milage. If you gain 1/2 mpg how long will it take to recope your money? The units I have seen can be set for economy, power cruve or HP gains but not together. My son got a unit for his Ford diesal. He can get better milage but loses power. He can set it on high preformance and smoke the tires but his fuel goes up in smoke behind his suv. You can gain alot better milage by just slowing down 10 MPH. You can get more power for hills by ingreasing your RPM just before you start up a steep grade and it doesn't cost $395.00+. Just my thoughts. Good Luck

On any material, fiber glass, cast iron, rubber roof, etc. when planning to repair a crack or tear it is always good to drill or cut a small hole or circle at each end of the tear or crack. If not done the tear or crack can run. The hole or circle will prevent the crack or tear from becoming worse . Just an old trick from 40 years of welding experience.

Joe, A 7 year old coach with only 13,000 miles says to me to look at the interior of the coach really well. There can be several thing that would cause there to be such low milage. Did the original owner buy the coach and then decide that RVing was not for them? Did he become ill and was not able to use the coach or did they use it to live in, winter in the south and summer in the north? If it was used to live in the interior might be worn. Have the engine looked at by a professional. I have always purchased pre-owned cars and RVs. Some people purchase new because they don't want someones else's problems. I look at it this way, The unit has already taken the greatest deprecation in the first 2 years and all of the bugs have been worked out under warranty. If there are any problems I can do most of the work myself and if I have problems I can't figure out I always have the Forum and Brett. Help doesn't get any better then that. So look over the unit and have a professional check out everything. Good Luck