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Everything posted by wolfe10
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Blue tank above is an ACCUMULATOR.
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Not familiar with a Xantrex 480 in an RV application. The 458 is a very common Xantrex inverter/charger. And with very rare exception the inverter is hooked to the HOUSE battery bank, not CHASSIS battery bank. As long as the solar panels (with smart controller) are hooked to the batteries (most common to hook them to the house battery bank, that bank will stay charged. In your area, would have to keep snow off the panels for them to function. There are then several ways to keep the other battery bank charged: Small separate solar panel oe one of the "smart thief devices" such as Xantrex Echo charger.
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MikenChris, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is more important to have both tires on one side in back the same height/diameter (so they equally share the load) than to mix those with more wear and those with less on one side in back. So, both old fronts to the left rear, new tires in front, original tires on the right side in back. If no sign of uneven wear, I would not bother to rotate the old tire in the right rear with only 6,000 miles on them.
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Is this the product you used? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Stainless-Steel-Brick-Mosaic-Metal-Wall-Tile-Common-12-in-x-12-in-Actual-9-76-in-x-11-73-in/3477521
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Bill, I totally agree. But, have inspected more than a few that had such a thick layer of ice that function was materially degraded. Certainly a cheap easy first step before jumping into troubleshooting for more complex issues.
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But, if a layer of ice builds up, it time (or past time) to defrost. Ice is a great insulator (just ask any lake up north) and can mess up refrigerator temperatures.
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If you are going to replace 4 tires, move the front ones to ONE SIDE IN BACK. That way the two tires mated on that side are the same height. Mark the front ones so you put a side facing inboard in front facing outboard in back so the same side is not exposed to UV light.
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Blake, In a word, NO. But it moves the "least strong component" to something other than the tires. From a safety standpoint, you are safer with a tire carrying, say 85% of its rating than a tire carrying 100% of its rating. Said another way, having the tires as the "weak link" is a safety issue that is better corrected.
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Please, let's keep this thread on track: 2014 Equinox Wobble (and it's Chevrolet twin). There is a separate Jeep thread, for issues related to the Jeeps. Anyone researching Jeeps here on the FMCA Forum would not find Jeep-related posts in a thread titled 2014 Equinox. Thanks. Moderator
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Zee, You need to take it to someone who understands 12 VDC and RV's. 10 and 8 volts says something is VERY wrong, assuming you are on shore power. When you CONFIRM what inverter or inverter/charger you have we can be of more assistance. It should have a model number on it.
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What inverter/charger do you have? Many have a fan than runs when their charger section is working hard. Is that what lead you to the "continues to run" comment? If not, what is the indication that has you concerned?
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Is the sink in a slide? If so, check for kinked drain hose. Drano is really hard on gaskets and seals-- would flush that out really well.
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Keon, Just do a search for: Onan EC-30W
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Should you decide to check into it, Onan makes an auto-gen set start-- should work with your 2003 coach and Onan 7.5KW generator. Our 2003 Alpine has that feature-- can be set to come on based either on low battery and/or a set temperature. Would allow you to range further afield without worry.
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Power Steering/Hydraulic Systems Analysis
wolfe10 replied to andyshane's topic in Systems and Appliances
Andy, There are several different ways to control hydraulic pressure. Is this system unique to your power steering, or is it tied in with the hydraulic fan for your side radiator? Separate pressure regulator (that would bleed off excess PSI back to the reservoir or pump)? Monaco Corp would be my first call to determine exactly how the system works. Also verify the correct fluid. There is no "here is the correct fluid for all". I have worked on these systems that use: ATF, hydraulic fluid or 15-40 engine oil. The correct fluid is important. Hard to believe this is simply a "cold is viscous" issue. We have all done a lot of miles in cold conditions with these same systems. -
Two perhaps different questions: 1. How to monitor temperature. 2. How to insure that temperature does not become excessive, even in the event of a power failure. You don't say what rig you have, but an AUTO GENSET START would solve the "what happens if shore power goes out and the temperature rises" if your HVAC and generator are or can be set up for it.
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2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow LXE 38F No Power To Thermostat
wolfe10 replied to smsdavis's topic in Electrical
Have you verified that the batteries (house bank) is at 12+ VDC? -
Like Herman, I start by cleaning the channel. Then I use silicone spray in the plastic "U" channel.
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Dallas To Chicago With Grandkids
wolfe10 replied to ronandsue74's question in Destinations/Attractions
Two negative posts-- sorry. Let me start over. How long do you have? What kinds of things are you/the kids interested in? THEN we can suggest a route and things along the way. -
I saw no mention on the Kia Niro in the 2017 FMCA Towing Guide. The Forte, Rio and Soul were mentioned as towable 4 wheels down with manual transmission in the January 2017 FMCA Magazine and on-line.
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There are THREE options here (selecting from two different 120 VAC power sources): 1. ATS 2. An outlet in the coach where one has to manually remove the cord from one power source and plug in the other. 3. A mechanical switch such as this (very common in marine applications): https://www.bluesea.com/products/9019/AC_Rotary_Switch_-_OFF_%2B_2_Positions_240V_AC_65A
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oceans351, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What did the fire department say as the cause of the problem? Wonder if there was a fuel leak? Loose connection? Rodent damage to fuel line?
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Jayson, Hopefully someone else with the same coach will respond. But, not sure it matters what coach it is done in, this is a very common upgrade. There are several different methods-- some more finished looking than others. Most finished is to recess the flatscreen slightly in the existing opening and trim around it. Make sure you get a TV with front speakers or have a sound bar, as many TV's have the speakers in back. Some just use either wood or the metal premade TV mounts to cover the whole original opening. Doesn't look as finished, but easier and gives you a larger TV. On one coach I did this on, I took down the original TV cabinet and trimmed off the top and front to more exactly fit the dimensions of the flat screen TV. Then reinstalled the TV. Since neither top (ceiling) not front showed, no refinishing was needed. It all depends on how handy you are/how much you want to spend and what look you want to end up with.
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No, both are close to the same capacity. But, harder to find 8D deep cycle batteries, as most are truck start batteries.
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Exterior Maintenance - Cleaning and Waxing Fiberglass
wolfe10 replied to QuiGonJohn's topic in Chassis
jeannie.kathy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Many (particularly RV techs) would caution against waxing the roof, as it makes footing dangerous for those working on it. And assume you have a fiberglass or aluminum roof, as waxing other types would degrade them.