wolfe10

GeoLin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Caterpillar did not spec or install the engine oil dipstick-- your chassis maker did. So, they can tell you the volume between add and full. OR, as you suggested, add one quart at a time, wait a couple of hours to make sure it is in the crankcase and verify. Might also be a good idea to "calibrate the engine oil dipstick" at the next oil change. It is free, and not very complicated. If you need instructions, let us know. A quart or two per 2,500 miles is perfect. BTW, Caterpillar in writing suggests NOT adding oil until the level is at or below the add mark.

Barring someone having first hand information on this coach/chassis, or information from Gillig, the best answer really is that you can not hide an 18" tall by 12" diameter dryer with 3 air lines to it! Guess it could be located all the way forward, but that makes no sense. The proper location is close to the engine-driven compressor, as two of the lines go back to the compressor/governor. And, since moisture is present in the compressed air before the air dryer, there really should not be a drip loop/sag, as it could freeze in cold weather.

Travelinman2B, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Any truck spring shop should be able to add a leaf , completely rebuild the springs, replace the springs with new or install a spacer. This is what they do for a living. Sorry, but can only recommend one where we are in Texas-- suspect others may know of one in your area.

Old Beaver, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Dryers are pretty substantial-- most are more than 18" tall and 12" in diameter. Afraid you will need to locate it, as both length of new hose and size and type of fitting are important. It will be between the air compressor on the engine and the wet tank (first large air tank). What chassis are you on-- that may help tell where the dryer is located?

Paioca, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It has been almost 3 years since the last post on this subject. I tried e-mailing Mark, but, the message was not delivered. Got this message: " Delivery to the following recipients has been delayed. " Good luck in your search for information on this-- an adventuresome undertaking. I would feel much more comfortable if you have someone along with knowledge of vehicles and RV systems.

Ya, another of the "small world stories". We are from Texas, you from Washington state. Just ran into each other in the parking lot in the CG in Tonopah, AZ. Should we try for a second time???

Yes, emissions requirements are based on date of ENGINE production, with January 1 being a common date for changes in emission requirements. So you could have an engine 2 years older than your coach-- each time there are major changes/price increases, many engines are produced just before the change over date.

Renee, Even if you are below GVWR, you might want to consider options before adding that much "ballast" to the coach. There are some high quality products that look very similar to the much heavier tile but are a fraction of the weight. Most can be installed grouted or non-grouted. Here is one:http://www.congoleum.com/product_options.php?collection=DuraCeramic

Here is contact information on the guy Herman is referring to: Allison ECU and shift pad repair: John Kopalek. 866 439 9779 http://www.transmissioninstruments.com/

I contacted a friend who is a retired Caterpillar tech. Here is his reply: " What you have is a copper sleeve in the head for each injector and one of the copper sleeves is cracked. This is allowing Diesel fuel to go into the coolant because diesel fuel pressure is higher than the cooling system pressure. We used to replaced the copper sleeves in the field but anymore Cat will want to exchange the head with another loaded head." You might check with a local Caterpillar dealer to see what the cost difference would be between a reman head and replacing the copper injector sleeves (if the copper sleeves are still available and they are able to do it).

Wonder if the dryer was WAY past due for servicing. Maybe water or worse filter media got in the system-- can certainly contaminate the check valves. Look forward to hearing what you find in the wet tank drain. Good luck with it.

Deen, Sorry to hear about your loss. If you will be in AZ this winter, let us know-- would look forward to seeing you again. Dianne and I will be at the Diesel RV Club Rally February 26- March 3. 2017: http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2316575. Then on to the FMCA Convention in Chandler. Brett

Yes, there are high-end DP's in the 36' range. Foretravel, Country Coach and others made them. Roughly what price range are you interested in and perhaps we can post some examples?

Were it me, I would have them install the pump, verify that all is working and then YOU drive it, keeping a close eye on temperature. Start with a 2-3 mile and back to dealership (unless you are able to check for coolant and oil leaks from engine and check coolant for oil and oil for coolant. Do a couple of more runs with more miles and declare it good to go. Yes, you are running a small additional risk if you drive with coolant in oil or oil in coolant, but checking these is likely what they would be doing.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. With the Caterpillar 3126, oil capacity would depend on whether you have the shallow or deep pan. Please copy down your engine serial number and call the Caterpillar RV Hotline at 877 777-3126. They can tell you with certainty. OIl-- two very popular choices you can get anywhere (like Walmart): Shell Rotella T 15-40. Delo 400 15-40. You will have no problem finding the oil drain plug. Don't know where your oil fill is.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you called Blue Ox to verify that as of today they do not have one-- if you just checked online it may not be up to date. You might check with other tow equipment manufacturers to see if they have a base plate and if so, is it different than that for previous years. Roadmaster has a pretty good website for checking or give them a call. Also have installation instructions for each on-line. That may be enough info to crawl under to see if one for the older model will work on yours.

Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. While you don't say how handy you are, you should easily be able to identify the source of that massive a leak. Then decide if it is something you can tackle or something you need a professional to address. Do NOT even consider driving it until this is fixed. With air brakes, if the leak is on a brake circuit, when air pressure drops, the emergency brake will automatically apply.

Bill, Thanks for the heads up. A good value for anyone looking for Group 31 start batteries.

Many HWH systems have a fuse near the hydraulic pump. Check out Rich's links.

Tom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In addition to what transmission you have/ what chassis, can you select either D or R by playing with the shifter? Any burned smell to the transmission fluid? How many miles on it?

Honda does not show the 2004 Odssey as being towable 4 wheels down.

It is going to be hard for us to "arm chair" diagnose this. And, no idea of they have techs familiar with your engine. Were it me, I would check out the local Caterpillar dealer. Kind of like going to a cardiac surgeon for open heart surgery, not a GP. The Caterpillar dealer probably does more Caterpillar 3126 work in a week than a chassis dealer does in a month. This may not be the case where you are, but certainly worth checking out.

OK, you do have a bell crank-- check it along with the rest of the steering linkage. Fine a helper. They will sit in the driver's seat. With engine OFF, they will turn the steering wheel back and forth (right/left). You will look under the coach, starting driver's side well in front of the driver's front tire. You want to verify that every movement coming out of the steering box moves the "next component" exactly the same amount. Said another way, that there is no play in any of the joints. You will look at front and back of drag link, bell crank (make sure it only allows fore/aft movement, and no side to side play, continue back to left steering knuckle. Then both ends of the tie rod (easiest to see from just behind the front wheels). Indeed, no that chassis also check the sway bar end link bushings (if there is any light between bushing and washer or sway bar) the sway bar can not do its job. Replacement is very easy-- no heavy lifting. Do upgrade to polyurethane bushings if replacing them.

What chassis? Some have bell cranks, others do not. Several very different styles of sway bar bushings. Describing one will only confuse if you have the other. This is why I asked.

What chassis? How many miles on it? Have you checked for play in the steering linkage? If not, let us know and we can detail how YOU can do it very easily.