wolfe10

Byron, Agree the charger may not be the root cause. But, it can be if voltage too high and lack of maintenance. Here is how it progresses: Charger overcharges/voltage too high. Batteries boil. Water level not maintained. Hottest cell boils dry first. Once dry, it fails, making a 6 VDC battery a 4 VDC battery/12 VDC battery a 10 VDC battery. Charging a 10 VDC battery (one dead cell, whether in two 6 VDC batteries in series or a 12 VDC battery) at 13+ VDC is WAY OVER-CHARGING IT. Battery death is imminent.

Pull out your Freedom Inverter manual or look on-line. It is a smart charger, but you need to tell it what you need. You will tell it: 1. Battery bank size (in amp-hrs) 2. Battery technology (wet cell, AGM, gel) 3. You will tell it ambient temperature range (unless you have the optional battery temperature probe). Correct charging voltage in hot temperature is LOWER than when it is cold out. So, if no temperature probe, you will change this setting seasonally. Depending on age of coach, this programming is accomplished by (from earliest models to new): Dip switches on inverter/charger OR dip switches on back of remote panel OR programming from front of remote panel.

With wet cell batteries, most accurate is to fully charge and then test with a HYDROMETER-- under $10 at any auto parts house. Have you programmed your Freedom 20?

Have driven the Alcan 3 times and cruised the inside passage 9 times (returned Monday from our last cruise). Both are great, but scenery on the cruise is truly spectacular, not just "nice".

jeffmfi, Yes, welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two causes of batteries boiling. As already posted, the most common is for a cell to go bad. When that happens to a 6VDC battery, it, in reality becomes a 4VDC battery. So, a charger, doing exactly what it should (in terms of charging voltage) will WAY over-charge those remaining good cells. Another cause is that a "stupid" charger or smart charger improperly programmed will charge at too high a voltage.

Yes, you have it correctly identified-- remove the outer panel to access the screws. The picture you posted has both 120 VAC (the breakers) and 12 VDC (the fuses) in the same enclosure. Yours may be like that or in separate areas. Procedure is the same either way. And, as you posted, be sure shore power is disconnected, generator off, inverter off.

Agree, loose connections are the #1 killer of ATS's. #2 would be burned points from switching under heavy loads.

Agree, sudden blowouts can occur. But, probably a VERY small number, compared with those that loose pressure over time and then fail. So, agree, a TPMS can not prevent all tire failures, but it can prevent the vast majority of them.

Let me clarify that: The RED (Rear Engine Diesel) IS, repeat IS a diesel pusher. If a FRED (Front Engine Diesel), that is a completely different beast with front engine (hence the name) and different suspension, etc. Engine size is another issue. When looking at engine size/power, power to WEIGHT ratio is more telling. On long grades, with our first coach (1993 Foretravel U240 with 250 HP Caterpillar 3116) I have passed 500 HP coaches on long grades, as our coach weighted about 1/3 of what that other coach weighted.

I have found the Wix cross reference guide excellent for determining both specs and Wix (good quality) replacements: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/filterlookup.aspx

Mike, Indeed, there are several good/safe ways to use multiple 120 VAC sources. Most RV's use ATS's because they are "automatic"/require zero owner work. Most marine applications DO use manual switches and they are a viable option in an RV. More KISS theory, but do require owner "work". And certainly another option is to manually plug shore power cord into outlet supplied by generator. As with all 120/240 VAC wiring, you do need to know what you are doing!

Best answer. With a call from Winnebago, a dealer's service manager is very likely to work you in. Be sure to explain that you are traveling, not looking for service from your local dealer when you bought elsewhere because of price, etc.

Roger, At least in the picture, looks like there is metal visible surrounding the slide opening. And there surely will be metal forming the "framing" of the opening. Assume you do have braces at all four corners.

A good idea. And, even 2X2's would work fine. I did something very similar when a hydraulic line split to the slide cylinder for our bedroom slide. Got it home just fine (FL to TX). I used 4 2X2's I cut from scraps of 2X2's I found in a dump near a small CG where we were to hold the slide at each side/top and bottom. If we had been near a box store, would have just bought some 2x2 and cut them the correct length. Be sure they are placed so that both ends are on structural members, not just wall board. Use velcro or in an emergency, even duct tape to hold them in place.

Have you checked voltage at the batteries? House? Chassis?

Filters/filter housings are generally chosen by the chassis maker, not the engine maker. The engine maker just gives the specs (CFM's). So, check with your chassis maker.

First step is to have the tire inspected by a tire expert-- hopefully to determine the root cause of the failure. Only a small percent are manufacturer defects. Said another way, a manufacturing defect will usually show up in way less than 5 years.

If you need suggestions of what to do in ports, let us know what your interests are and we can help. Been there, done that. In fact we lived in Juneau 40+ years ago.

Another, "much better than standard" approach is to: 1. Check tire for run out. If not correctable to less than .035" run out, TRUE THE TIRE. 2. Then, spin balance on the rig (front tires). Both are becoming "lost arts", as Bubba with 15 minutes of training can't do it.

BILLC, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I agree, sounds like you lost 12 VDC. Start by verifying that your "salesman switch" usually located by the door is on. Than check voltage at batteries and their connections.

Note from moderator: Please post responses to Tim's question here rather than in the trailer section: https://community.fmca.com/topic/12752-tire-inflation/?tab=comments#comment-103883 Thanks.

If no unusual wear, no need to rotate.

bhlutz1920, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since Jomax (at least their product I use) is mixed with chlorine bleach. Would be surprised if that is approved by your awning manufacturer. BUT, check with them, as there are a number of different "fabrics" used as awning material.

Yes, the door placard is based on each axle being loaded to GAWR. That is NOT an assumption you want your life riding on. And, a LONG Class C is one of the more prone to being overloaded, so weighing is even more important.

Totally depends on WHAT it is. Can you narrow it down from the list I posted above? What does it "come from" and "go to" (i.e. follow the hose).