wolfe10

Bill's method is fine-- actually more complete than mine. With mine, because you do not get all the oil out with the pump, I do the process a couple of times. BUT, each time only takes 2-3 minutes. Since oil volume is so small, one quart will change it a couple of times. So, either way is fine. But EVERYONE needs to keep an occasional eye on fluid level. It is a sealed system, so if the level goes down, FIND THE LEAK. If the inner seal leaks, it will contaminate the brakes. If outer, it will show radial streaks from hub out onto the wheel and tire.

Passenger's side of engine forward of the injection pump. Have someone turn the key to ON (not start) while you are back there. The fuel pump/lift pump will start and run for 30 seconds or so.

Ross, That may be the case, but let's throw this Forum into the mix. I am speculating, but suspect that Forum members are younger demographics than overall FMCA members. So, by spreading the word here, hopefully we will make Forum savvy members of FMCA aware of the importance of the ballots AND return their print ballots in high numbers. Not taking a side here, just looking forward to every member being able to vote for how THEY want FMCA to look going forward.

Most wet hubs use gear lube. Some spec 85/90, some straight 90, some 90/140. Best info is to check with your axle manufacturer (should be a little plate on the front of the axle. Probably a good idea to change it based on time not miles in your case. At least after 10 years, it would be on my list. And a pretty easy job if you have a small hand suction pump. Don't even need to remove the drain which can get messy. And, checking the fluid level is something everyone should do-- they do not have much oil, and if it runs out, THE WHEEL STOPS TURNING. Had a coach on one of the RV forums where that happened, it crystallized the spindle and broke it. Whole side of the coach on the ground. Check it with the coach parked on flat ground. There is a ring with arrow on most of the clear window hubs and the words "full". So, not rocket science.

Herman, Couple of points: The Cummins ISL is 8.9 liters. The C is the 8.3 liter Cummins. Fuel pump is NOT in/at the tank, but on the passenger's side of the engine. Yes, some have added a pump up front to push fuel back, as the OE lift pump was more designed with trucks in mind than motorhomes (i.e. a few feet from fuel tank to lift pump, not a many YARDS).

Don, If no external steering stabilizer hanging up and no mechanical issue with steering linkage or steering knuckles, that would suggest that the problem is internal to the steering box. What steering box do you have. Probably not a bad idea to contact them with our symptoms to see if they have an observation. Clearly, this can be a safety concern!

Smart boy-- if Lois is happy, Rich is happy.

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/tire-guide-warranties-and-bulletins/ Big difference is revolutions per mile. Per the Michelin documentation: 255/80R22.5 is 538 revolutions per mile 275/80R22.5 is 516 revolutions per mile That significantly changes your effective axle ratio, speedometer, etc

Rich, Did it look like the brake issue was due to road salt? Other cause(s)?

For the chassis batteries, I would get the HD Perko ON OFF switch which probably most closely follows the ratings of your engine start amp load. For house suspect the medium duty would be just fine. And, on your Xantrex inverter/charger, one of the "programmables" is ambient temperature (unless you have the optional battery temperature sensor that would have a telephone-type connection at the inverter/charger). If you don't have the temperature sensor, and the shop set it perfectly for winter temperatures, you WILL boil the batteries in summer temperatures. Said another way, setting temperature is something that you have to reprogram with the seasons. All done from the Xantrex remote following instructions in your Xantrex owners manual.

Rich, Yes, that sure sounds excessive. Be sure to note if there is any air in the system, which can certainly cause low fuel pressure. A loose hose clamp or crack in those OE fuel lines from the tank bare close inspection.

Bill, A 265/75R22.5 is a lot closer in dimensions to the 255/80R22.5 than is the 275/80R22.5. You might also look at a 275/70R22.5, but will sure has to check clearances to body and suspension components, as well as verify proper off-set and rim width.

Dotson1813, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of the answer depends on YOUR needs/desires. The Invisibrake is permanently installed. So, nothing to move in or out. Just hook up and go. But, because it is permanently installed, that costs more money than a "brake in a box". So, if you change toads often, probably not a good choice. But, if you don't like lugging around and installing the "brake in a box", the invisibrake is a good choice. That is what we us, but that does not mean that it is the right choice for everyone.

ricky5924, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What converter or inverter/charger do you have? Quite possible it is a smart one and just needs to be properly programmed.

Add to that the Michelin XRV series.

Of course, if you have to put your F (or S or D or L) number on the ballot, there would be no question. This AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE. One vote per FMCA number!

djcarlson1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A question before we get started-- is 11R22.5 the OE size on your coach (per the GVWR sticker which is likely in the nose next to the diesel fill)?

I do exactly the same. MUCH easier before they get baked on.

It is my understanding that ballots will be returned to an independent third parts-- enough said!

Galvanic reaction in salt or even "fresh water" is a very different beast than in a water heater. Again, if Atwood though that an anode was even OK (not even good) they, repeat they would market them as an additional profit source. As a separate question-- on the anodes that are available, what material are the threads made of that screw into the aluminum tank?????

Atwood does NOT RECOMMEND an anode for their water heaters. Their tanks are aluminum, not steel like Suburban. Yes Suburban water heaters DO require an anode. Atwood recommends an annual flushing and replacement of the nylon Atwood drain plug (about $2). https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Atwood-Drain-Plugs-p/80-8489.htm In fact, Atwood does not even sell anodes. Yes, aftermarket companies do, but this is still not Atwood's recommendation.

No question, voltage need to be monitored when loads are applied. Can be done "automatically" as Wayne posted or we just have a large-display voltmeter that plugs into a regular house-type outlet. Depends on whether you want it to be automatically done for you or if you want the responsibility. Be aware that the third option on not checking can be very expensive!

Duane, Thanks for coming back with the answer. Will likely help someone else in the future.

While I am not a fan of KOA (mostly price related), not sure it is reasonable to condemn a CG franchise because of a wiring issue at one park. Very interested in the "what was wrong" with the power.

ONLY DO THIS IF YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 220 VAC. Touching the metal of the voltmeter probes can be deadly. The two outer straights are the HOTS. The center straight is the NEUTRAL The center round is the GROUND SO: Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Either outer straight to center straight or center round= 120 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC