wolfe10

I also wash mine. Either at home (storage barn) or with permission at some CG's. About 2 hours.

https://www.arprv.com/products.php

Yup, first "RV" (I use that term lightly) got 28 MPG-- a 1958 VW panel truck I bought for $150 with household furniture. Would I go back-- no way. Would my better half go THAT FAR back-- you have to be kidding. As those of you who know me, I do monitor MPG. Is it the overwhelming factor in selecting and operating a motorhome? Not a chance.

Yup, Allison published specs for each of the transmissions: http://www.allisontransmission.com/transmissions/models/motorhome-series Offerings range from the 1000 to the 4000 series. HP from 340 max up to 650. Torque from 575 max to 1950.

What size wheels do you have? I know that with 6.75" wheels, you can go with 255/80R22.5. If 7.5" wheels you have more options. Of course, you will need to verify clearance to body and suspension, but doubt the 255 would be a problem.

While true-- fuel is certainly an expense, depreciation well out-strips all other costs of ownership.

Yes, not quite sure what is bad: Are you talking about the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). So the 120 VAC in from shore power and generator-- single out to main 120VAC breaker box? Or 12 VDC, and if so what is it?

Jimmy, Need to start by going up on the roof (or have someone else do it). Remove the A/C cover. Check for mud dubber nest on fan blades that could be unbalancing them. Also check for fan motor mounts and compressor mounts. Have someone then start it while you see what is happening.

Might check here: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_317 Shoot them a picture of what you have. Another option is to contact Gulfstream.

Dan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As desertdeals69 said, if the battery wired to the boost/emergency start switch is too low to close the solenoid it will not work. It will likely be pretty easy to re-wire the switch to the other battery bank as most coaches have both chassis and house battery powered items up front.

Check, but I suspect the "For recreational purposes only" is to exclude commercial use or renting it out. How in the world would they know whether you stopped at the store on the way to or from a camping trip vs just a trip from your house to the store??

bhamby, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Do you know that generator power is reaching the coach-- do other things like the microwave work (inverter turned off)? There are breakers on the generator itself- would not hurt to turn them OFF and back ON to make sure they are not tripped. Does the thermostat work when on shore power?

To bypass a solenoid merely remove the large-gauge wires from one large lug and ADD them to the other large lug. You could use a jumper, but would have to be extremely careful to not touch any metal (ground). Moving the wires is a lot safer. And put a bread tie, paint mark or record wire numbers of those you move so you can return them to their original position to disconnect your bypass. And, likely some confusion here. The CHASSIS battery, not house battery powers the dash and starter. So the salesman switch that turns off 12 VDC to interior lights, etc is not involved-- at least on any motorhome I have worked on.

Two ways: Check shocks physically. If they are leaking oil (not just damp, but leaking) they are bad. If the bushings are shot/have play, they are shot. And, test them for proper dampening. Drive over shopping center speed bump as regular/low speed. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, the shocks are bad.

Excellent question. I e-mailed FMCA's Publishing Director and got this reply: Hi, Brett, The ballot will appear in the September, October, and November issues, with a deadline for returning by mail of November 30, 2017. I’m guessing more communication will take place with members, but I’m not sure what the plan is. Chris’ first day back from Indy was today so we haven’t met.

To post a link: Highlight and copy the link-- easy on another window. Click on the "chain link" symbol above (hoovering over it says "link"). Paste the link. Click "insert into post.

Trynforpar, If you really are interested in finding a service company in your area, you might want to go back and edit the title to reflect that.

OR, in lieu of or in addition to: pull the positive from an "ignition hot" location. Key off, no power to it.

Well said!

Steve, I am reluctant to send a new member of the FMCA Forum to another website, but for that very coach-specific issue, you might want to post on the Safari-specific site: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/conversations/messages

Correct. Replacing sway bar bushings is quite simple with basic hand tools and no "heavy lifting" is needed.

In a word, NO. Changing sway bar bushings, or even sway bars will NOT affect caster, camber or toe.

Exactly correct. It is not just your fueling, but the guy who may be filling across the island from you.

Correct. Absolutely do NOT run the exhaust fans unless the temperature of air at the exhaust fan is higher than the temperature outside. Said another way, only if the inside is superheated-- for the first couple of minutes. There is no "free lunch". Removing 2000 CFM of interior air WILL be replaced by 2000 CFM of outside air at whatever temperature and humidity it is. And, yes humidity is a real consideration, as it takes a lot of BTU's to condense that water vapor into condensate.

That is certainly one perspective. But a counter perspective (and one I agree with) is that in today's world, where virtually everyone starts with searches for answers on-line is that the FMCA Forum is a very low cost way to introduce motorhome owners to the benefits of FMCA membership. That "click" is a lot more cost effective way of reaching prospective members than print ads, etc. If, for example, a search for three or four separate motorhome-related issues all land the FMCA Forum in the top couple of hits, there is a lot more likelihood of that person joining FMCA than if they did not have that exposure to us.