wolfe10

A 50 amp RV connection with GFI? Now, that is a new one on me. 15 amp-- absolutely. 50? would have to see that one!

Rich, think that was a Freudian slip. Agree, if the turbo doesn't whine, just go wine! Absolutely, if you went from good performance to no performance at one instant, visually check these connections on the intake side of the plumbing: Turbo to connector Connector to CAC IN (Charge Air Cooler) CAC OUT to connector Connector to intake manifold. Also the hose from intake manifold to air compressor. Yes, will likely require access from both top and bottom, but once you gain access, should not take 10 minutes. Make sure hose connections are tight and that there are no holes worn in any of the connectors.

The 1992 Safari TREK is the one that used the Isuzu chassis. Stephen has a diesel pusher.

The hydraulic brake system has a hydroboost system (much stronger than a vacuum boost) to assist in lowering braking pedal effort/boosting brake pressure. The power steering pump provides the hydraulic pressure. Were the engine to quit while driving, there is an electric pump built into the hydroboost to provide the boost so you could safely stop. It only functions in emergency situations. Easy to very that it works: step on the brake pedal with the engine off. You will hear it, as it is under the driver's floorboard. Don't recall if ignition needs to be on or not for this test. Yes, very different than air brakes, but a widely used system on trucks and a few motorhomes.

Byron, My only problem with those portable compressors is that most have no dryer. So, in addition to air you are adding water to the tire. While air follows the ideal gas law (predictable PSI change with temperature change), water does NOT. And not good for tires either. Adding a small dryer makes a big difference.

Not aware of a single deleted post. But, also, can't see the purpose in speculation and "finger pointing" when the FMCA staff explained what happened and will be working to handle the huge workload the new program will entail.

Are you plugged in (i.e. inverter/charger is "passing through the 120 VAC and charging the batteries? OR is it inverting power from the batteries to power 120 VAC in the coach because you have no shore power and generator is off?

Any RV store and even some Walmarts have the adapters. Though rare, there are also 15 amp male to 50 amp female. But most use the two.

Yes, using a 15 amp male to 30 amp female adapter AND a 30 male to 50 female adapter will power things in your motorhome. If, as I suspect you have, this is an inverter/charger, when it is plugged into the house, the inverter/charger will keep charged the house bank and MAYBE the chassis battery (the second less likely). The 120 VAC will also be "passed through" to those circuits down stream of the inverter/charger.

Thanks Chris. Makes perfect sense.

Getting back to the "use a 120vac adapter on the 240 vac 50amp power": We need to figure out exactly what 240 VAC power source you are talking about. Is this an RV 50 amp receptacle that your coach is plugged into and you are asking if, when plugged in will your inverter keep the batteries charged? If so, we need to know what inverter or INVERTER/CHARGER you have. Some inverters have built in chargers, some do not. And, if you are not plugging your coach into a 50 amp RV outlet, what 50 amp 240 VAC outlet are you using? Separate issue-- some coaches have both house and chassis batteries charged by built in systems, some just charge the house batteries.

The FMCA Michelin program has always included tires for all motorhomes and many other vehicles as well. A's, B's and C's. Same for the FMCA Continental tire program.

OK, getting awfully close to discussing politics here. Let's get back on the "ROAD" discussion. Thanks.

No, Chevrolet had nothing to do with the paint choices. Chevrolet shipped Safari a bare chassis. The "house" and paint job were by Safari who is long out of business.

I apologize for answering a question by sending someone to another website, but there is an excellent Safari Trek forum where they may be able to help: http://www.trektraxs.com/

kdelpierre, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what engine you have-- gas, diesel? If diesel, yes the least expensive first step and one that is a common cause of this is clogged fuel filter(s). Change them.

Rex, Check voltage at the start batteries when someone tries to start it. Are the batteries on a charger (from shore power)? And, as Herman said be VERY careful starting with any batteries removed, as the alternator will have the lead from battery isolator to batteries HOT. You don't want to arc weld!

Yes, that manual primer pump mounts on a Caterpillar fuel filter head. No Caterpillar fuel filter, no place to mount it. BTW, there are other manual primer pumps made by Racor and others.

As long as there is no air leak (hose, filter removal, etc) fuel will not drain back to the tank. As I mentioned, one of the very best additions to any diesel fuel system is a ball valve on the inlet to the primary/only fuel filter. Close it and fuel will NOT drain back to the tank when the filter is removed. And, I am a firm believer in two fuel filters, the primary between tank and lift pump and secondary between lift pump and injection pump/engine. And, if a Caterpillar, their manual primer pump which puts an absolute end to this problem. In fact, in writing, if your coach has the manual primer pump, Caterpillar recommends installing BOTH filters dry and using the manual pump to prime. IT WORKS (had this system on two DP's).

From my post above: Also, be aware that if the level of fuel in the tank is lower than the filter head, when you remove the filter, fuel will flow all the way back to the tank, leaving you with 25+ feet of AIR. If this is the case, it may no prime with "normal methods". The solution if this is the case is to either loosen the bleed valve on the primary fuel filter or just loosen the filter element a little. Use compressed air in the fuel tank fill-- just put your hand over the opening with the air nozzle between thumb and index finger. All you need is 1-2 PSI-- enough to drive fuel through the line. Of course the best long-term solution is a ball valve on the inlet side of the secondary fuel filter. When changing fuel filters, just shut it off. Also, makes a heck of a good theft proofing!

How many amps does it draw with fuse #32 in? If a reasonably-sized charge line from coach to toad battery will solve it, that is no big deal.

F434472, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have. And, assume you are talking about the entrance/outside door.

Yes and no. The HEUI pump does use oil to substantially increase fuel pressure for injection. But, it has to have diesel, not air, to allow the engine to start and run.

Also, query the transmission for diagnostic codes. Ignition on, engine off. Push the up and down arrows at the same time. Repeat. That should bring up d-1. If a stored code, it will be a two digit/two digit code. If -- there is no stored code. If there is a d-1, hit "mode" to bring up d-2. Repeat until you get - -. Turn off the ignition and let us know what you find.

Angel Fire WILL be cooler. 8,400'. Not sure about "better"-- depends on your interests.