wildebill308

Glad you found the problem. Bill

I would start with the electric side. Do you have power to the outlet the electric heating unit connects to? If not find the circuit breaker for that outlet. Did you check the fuse? on the circuit board? Make shure you have 12V going into the control circuit board. Have you checked that ALL the switches are on. Try turning the switch in the front electrical information panel off and back on and see if you can hear it spark. Bill

Jim, I feel the place where it can cause the most damage and be damaging to your engine is on start up. The big problem is your diesel won't warm up at low idle. I have made it a practice to go to fast idle as soon as I have good oil pressure on the gage + 10-15 sec ( I want to be shure I have good oil pressure at the turbo). The problem is at low idle your engine is not burning all the fuel. You can have problems with fuel washing down the cylinder walls and contaminating the oil. Fast idle produces a little boost and will do a better job of burning all the fuel. When shutting down I watch the EGT gage and let it get down to around 425 deg. before I shut down. The time this takes has lots of variables. from how hot it is out to were you climbing a hill when you pulled into the rest area/campground. I don't think you will have problems with fuel washing down the cylinder walls because it is at operating temperature. The cool down is more to protect the turbo so once your EGT's drop you should be good. The problem with shutting it down when the EGT's at high is it can "coak" (think burn) the oil in the turbo and plug the oil passages. Protecting the turbo is one reason I run a synthetic oil like Shell Rotella T-6. Bill

I don't know why you need a special cup to see if it is blowing. When the wind blows the foam off my red Solo cup I know it is time to put the awning in. Bill

The only thing I will add is when you get the alignment done get an all wheel alignment. Bill

Yes, Campus is a real gem. We have strayed there when visiting the Harry S Truman home and Library. Bill

When I bought my 22014 CRV I had the dealer install separate LED lights. That way there could be no problems with any warranty because I had "modified the electrical system. This has worked well. Bill

I would start using Diesel Kleen to keep the new injectors clean. Bill

I would look at some of the casino's in the area. Get the app Casino RV Parks. Bill

With all the tools available I don't see the need for another redundant "trip planner". Bill

What are you looking at? By the way welcome to the forum. Bill

What park?

Before spending the money on injectors I would run a tank of fuel with extra rich mix of Diesel Kleene. I would be using a good full synthetic oil like Shell Rotella T-6 5-40. I would also follow the link that Brett posted. Bill

Welcome to the forum. The first thing I would do is get an all wheel alignment. My rear axel was off and they had to adjust that. Then replace the rubber bushings in the sway bar with polyurethane bushings they are superior to rubber ones. Hear is a link to where I did my bushings. http://community.fmca.com/topic/8004-sway-bar-bushings-bad/ See if Newmar added a rear sway bar. Check your shocks. I would weigh the coach and adjust the tire pressure. I would do this before I spent money on a steering stabilizer. Bill

Not picking on you but one of my pet peeves with the RV industry is they never prime , seal or paint wood that is in places water can get to it. When you look under a new coach there is no paint on bare metal no paint on exposed wood. Press on you are doing great. Bill

Ok it is just the old Air crafter in me but clean all the surfaces on the plate break any sharp edges and 2 coats of prime. Bill

Looks like you are making good progress. Bill

You didn't have an icemaker in your old refrigerator? Bill

I used the FMCA Continental program and saved over the Michelin program. Bill

I would have ben saying more "unpleasant" words. Glad you are ok. Bill

Troll Bill

I think this is one of those things that isn't in the documentation and when you ask the factory they say well everyone knows that. Now I hope that is the problem for the OP. Bill

Jim, you are right. When I was getting ready for a trip I had put some water in the tank and was going to wash my hands after putting the hose away and the pump would run but no water. I said some unpleasant things before I found the valve in the wrong position. Bill

I think a much better plan is to install a "Extend a Stay" type of adapter and just hook in a extra tank. I wouldn't go over a 40# tank. I had a 60# but it only had one hand hold in the top and was hard to move, yes and it was heavy over 100# full. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=extend+a+stay+propane+kit&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=77721773822668&hvqmt=b&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8hrqmhf2fg_b Bill

"Oh, stop whining, or is that wineing. You can always fill it up...... again." Only if it is a good vintage. Well ok if you insist. Bill