kaypsmith

Joe, I have many pictures, I will be glad to send some in a pm this pm. My avatar has a few of the inside already. Thanks, Kay

Just installed new rear view camera system on the coach. The new one is a Chinese made ordered on Ebay, less than a hundred dollars, with two cameras and a 7 inch color monitor. This is a wired one, the last one was wireless. New one has IR night vision, the wireless one didn't have that feature. After the install was complete with no light showing, and low moon, I was able to see 100 yards behind, and the color is almost as good as seeing in the daylight.

Actually the states are only concerned with each axle not being overweight, and gross weight according to that states weight limits. Some states are 20,000#, and some are 22,000# per axle, unless in some cases a local weight limit. Thats why you hardly ever see states weighing RV's. They can't possibly know each coach's particulars. These weights are for your personal safety, and is a personal duty to keep up with them. Yes it's a very good thing to keep up with them. Many years ago, I hauled oranges out of Florida on an old 3/4 ton pu., I called the Fla., DOT to ask how much weight I could haul? The gentleman at the other end of the phone laughed and said, "You don't have to worry, it's 22,000# per axle".

I bet it was sure dark out there!!

Since the pot is still simmering, 15-40 for year round should be best. But I would not go full synthetic for a couple of changes, I would use 50 regular, and 50 synthetic the first oil change, 25 regular, 75 synthetic next time around, then full from then on. This gives the engine a chance to acclimate to the generosity of full synthetic.

My father used to tell me, "I have never learned anything with my mouth open".

These type couplers are swedged onto to the hose which is steel braided. You might consider removing the hose only, normally are fitted with the same type coupler at the other end and couples to a steel tube for the long haul back to the main supply. Any hydraulic shop could either put a new coupling on the hose, or make a new one. Once again, don't crawl under that coach with proper stands. I have seen several hurt for life because of not using proper safety in similar situations. An air bag, or a hydraulic jack can be the deadliest when least suspected.

Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, the jack with the broke coupling, could possibly be plugged off, allowing you to let the other three up. Then placing jack pads (boards) under the broken jack, dump the air bags to force the jack up, may take several times, stacking pads higher each time till it is back at the right height. If it is the big foot design, you should be OK to travel, if the foldup style, with springs, you might have to help them the rest of the way. Be very careful with this operation, do not crawl under the coach with aired up airbags, use a push stick to push the props under, an awning rod to pull them back out. If you are not comfortable with doing this, "please call for service", if you are in a park, the camp office usually will have a local mobile rv repair that they can call, or give you the number. Wish it were more simple, like just electrical outage. Good luck, and please follow all safety precautions, by the way, welcome to fmca forum, and happy future RV'ing. Forgot to add earlier, you may have to add fluid to the fluid tank if the jacks still do not retract, depending on how much fluid was lost.

The cover probably works in some kind of track mechanism, check that there are no obstructions in the path, maybe could need some lubrication. The fact that is goes "oogh", it sounds like there is power to it. Although many of these type mechanisms are air, or vacuum activated, if this the case some troubleshooting of the air or vacuum hose, checking for leaks. These are only thoughts for looking for all possibilities.

Are your jacks up or down at the present?

Sometimes the locale will cause rates to increase, because of high payouts in an affected area. Not always accidents by you, but flooding, hail damage, and other happenings in that area.

Not fun when the tps goes out, had that happen in the early 90's. Still drove, but I had to keep moving the accelerator back and forth to keep it going.

Use a volt ohm meter and measure to see if any voltage to the toilet, should be a disconnect where the coach wiring connects to the toilet. Also, the switch mentioned is probably on the toilet itself. Good luck chasing!! Kay

Welcome to the forum. We travel with 4 Yorkies, and just use cheap throw covers from any box store, Walmart, Target, etc. When they become soiled, put them into the washer/dryer, several times, then chunk them and start all over. When company is coming, we put them in the closet till they leave. Have fun with your new class A.

CDL drivers are taught the four and five second rule for spacing, this allows for sudden stops, and courtesy for others passing. If you are not familiar with the rule, simple way to follow this rule is to watch the next ahead of you, below 40 mph, if you will spot something, a sign post, or light pole, on anything not moving, if you will count the seconds, 1-2-3-4, then you should be at that object. Above 40 mph, the rule changes to 5 seconds. Auto's in most states are subject to the two second rule. I suggest coming to an agreement about the speed that you want to travel, posted speeds should be good, but some may want to travel at a speed that probably is a little lower because of fuel consumption. The ones that will not abide by the set plan, will probably go off and leave the others behind. Not much can be done by you or others in the group. That job is usually left to local law enforcement. Planned stops at fueling stations is a good idea when traveling in a group. Have fun, enjoy the trip, and welcome to the forum, Kay (PS) I'm sure others have their own ideas, and will voice them, that's why it is a forum.

Depending on the size of the holes, if not too large yet, you might consider just removing the rust with a wire brush, then grinding smooth. Then you can use epoxy resin and fiberglass mesh to cover the entire bottom of the compartment. Most auto restorers use this method to replace floor pans. The end result should last a lifetime, and is non corrosive to the battery acid You can find the material at most automotive parts stores, box building stores, and marine shops. Directions can be found on the products, and youtube has videos on how to. Good luck, Kay

I use http://www.reserveamerica.com/ This is the best experience I have when internet shopping, especially on short notice. They have a huge database, and all parks that are signed with them come into play in your search.

Welcome to the forum, and to answer your question. Ethically yes, but legally I doubt it. Although I would call the dealer and complain, he may just be ignorant to the facts. I would also complain to the district attorney in the state of purchase, if there are no laws against this practice, it could be a stepping stone to get laws enacted. All tires, especially when speed and weight related have an age factor, but how they are treated come into play, Tireman9 has some very good points on this. The big problem is, you nor the dealer really have any idea if they had good treatment or not. Good luck with your project, and happy motoring, Kay

I went to AAA+RV two years ago because it looked better than GS, have not used them yet, but two times with GS, I was very disappointed. First time shame on you, second time shame on me. I didn't wait for the third strike.

Welcome to the forum, and please don't be offended at the Newbie on the post, this only refers to the forum section. Thanks for your 29 years with FMCA. Sorry for your misfortunes at that park. Happy trails, Kay

Thanks John, yes I missed the tornado by 1 mile, not active as much as I used to be, no I don't do the BCM board. You may want to look at I-20 in mid Tx, it actually runs out into 1-10, passes right through B'ham., as you know. I'll be close to your qth this AM, Moulton to be exact. It's about 120 miles nearer, and not too bad roads or hills. 73

I believe that Brett is right. I read the post three times to make sure that I am not misreading, with the switches OFF, you wouldn't expect to make hot water, but with MOTOR-AID, you would be heating, with your engine coolant. This is to back up Herman's remark.

Hello John, welcome to FMCA. Congrats on the the NTU CC. No advice on routes but always good to see a fellow ham, N4WQP here. Happy motoring, Kay

Actuators are well worth the investment, also I always install a commercial grade check valve just before the pump water enters the main water supply line. This will greatly improve the pump life by stopping the backflow of shore water pressure, and contaminants from getting back to the pump. Will also help preserve the pump check valve, as they cant handle as much shore pressure in the event your regulator is not quite up to it's job.

Just one addition to Tom's very good instructions. Be sure to clean the seal and inspect for damage on the top side while the fabric is off, then, use the recommended lubricant. This will help in the sealing process. With the topper in place, this would be impossible to do. Kay