jleamont

J- I never turn off the power at a campground or my 50 AMP box at home for the RV. My Portable EMS has a time delay, prior to disconnecting the RV I shut everything off in the coach and just unplug it, I can see the load on the display and at that time its usually less than 2 amps. I remove the portable EMS from my home tower and when its reconnected it starts the 30 second delay which gives me ample time to reconnect the RV. I do the same at an RV park, sometimes I find the breakers on and sometimes they are off. Countless times I have had worn out breakers from them being utilized as a switch. I also NEVER plug into Shore power or start the generator with a load on (AC, ETC). I always start the generator and let it run for 5 minutes prior to loading it and when we arrive at home I shut the AC off and allow for the generator to idle (cool down) for 15 minutes before plugging into shore power, shut it down then plug in and switch the AC back on.

I have a similar issue with our Aquahot leaking. My engine loop pump in the Aquahot has failed, if I allow engine coolant flow into the Aquahot it will leak antifreeze out of the pump.

ruizrvnyc, Welcome to the FMCA Forums! Do you have a volt meter? You will have to locate the solenoid that controls the battery boost switch and test it, and the coach house switch solenoid (salesman switch solenoid). You should have the same voltage across both large lugs. If not you will need to test the small pins for power and ground when the switches are activated.

Sometimes that's not a bad thing, rather it be this way than bad or incorrect information.

Is this the product in question? http://rvinlinesanitizer.com/?page_id=49 Have you contacted the manufacture? Could just be a defective unit or took a shot in shipping which is causing your problems.

That's what you get up here for $50.00 per night TYPICALLY, if you want amenities and location its going to shoot up from there. If the campground offers more than the basics like close to the beach, Large well kept pool, water park or in the heart of the action, hold onto your wallet. Look at Texas as an example, you can get lake waterfront, huge site for $45.00, triple that in eastern PA. That's an exception and Amish owned, they use the campground to drive customers into the tourist traps they own. I believe the'll bus you over to them for free also , Great marketing strategy!

Don't forget the cost over here. Anything nice will set you back $150.00 per night. The Jellystone near us is almost at $200.00 per night.

Richard, the Latching controller had water in it. So upon further investigation the compartment door seal had failed. We just experienced a category 1 hurricane the day before and severe storms the day after. I removed the controller, blew it out with air replaced the door seal and it all works now. I am going to order a replacement pump. It would be hard to travel and depend on it. I’ll probably swap it out and hold onto the original.

Thanks Rich, the motor was so hot it almost burnt my hand. Not sure how reliable it will be moving forward?

Jim, the schematic is a huge help! Thank you!

Kay, it was shut off, water system is empty since the coach is parked between trips. DW found it running on air, based off of its external temperature it had been on most of the day. I’m going to unhook the switch signal and see if it still comes on with all interior switches disconnected, if so it’s got to be the Latching module. Unfortunately the pump has to be destroyed or at least no longer dependable so it will be replaced also.

Carl, I have this pump; https://thesolarstore.com/aquatec-5513-1e11-b636-550-series-pressure-pump-12vdc-p-496.html Herman, what micro switch are you referring to? Richard, thank you.

Ross, I have piloted many tire brands on commercial vehicles, Yokohama being the most recent. I have NO issues in ride quality with any of the following brands, I thought the Yokohama and Continental actually were a better ride than Michelin. If you are stuck on a Michelin product the BF Goodrich line is made by Michelin and was on the FMCA program. Hankook Yokohama Sumitomo Continential BF Goodrich (I put these on our coach 4 years ago) Cooper Roadmaster (a friend has these on his Tiffin, no issues and the ride is good). There is another off brand I carry as a spare, can’t think of the name.

Here’s one I haven’t seen yet. My fresh water pump keeps turning itself on. Of course the tank is empty and I probably need a new pump now, it was so hot you could cook on it! I have no idea how long it was running before my DW found it. I unplugged the pump (Figuring it would happen again), came back an hour later and the water pump light was back on. I’ve checked all switches, no issues observed. Last night I checked on it a few times and it remained off, this morning the light was back on (sure glad the pump is unplugged now). I believe I have a failed latching controller. I am going to unplug each switch input and see if the problem goes away before I begin hanging parts. Thoughts, experiences?

Have you checked the circuit breaker on the generator and as mentioned is it flashing any codes?

Every time I travel up there for work, "would Ya'all please talk slower, I cannot understand you" .

In New England drop the R and replace it with an A , example; Car is pronounced CAAAAA

Another thought. Replace the water pump with the newly designed for more water flow. Here’s an example of the difference. OEM Cummins is the only one making the new version.the old one is the all metal.

What PSI cap and how old is the coolant? I know it was all pulled and cleaned the radiator and CAC but sometimes the old coolant will get reinstalled to save a few dollars. Can you hear the fan? This is a big one, Monaco had problems with the wax valve that controls the fan in those years. I don't recall what the problems were i.e. fan to aggressive or not aggressive enough. I believe it could go either way depending on what position it failed at. What are you using to monitor temperatures? I installed done of these and accurate readouts have made me not look at those old gauges. https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-d/ This is the solution to a failed factory fan control wax valve. http://sourcerv.com/conversion

I responded to the post you created.

Euphoria2me, Welcome to the FMCA Forums! When you say its overheating, do you mean it boils over or just the temp gauge runs high? If just the gauge it could be inaccurate, ours climbs into the red often and when I look at the digital readout it never goes over 190 degrees. How old is the radiator cap and what PSI is it? Have you tried to downshift to raise the RPM's and see if that corrects the concern? Is the cooling fan running on HIGH while this is occurring,? You should be able to hear it roaring.

DOC, I personally would run the way Manholt recommended. Reason being the Atchafalaya Basin Bridge (depending on your coach) could be comfortable or white knuckled. We crossed it in 2013 is a gas coach (no air ride) it wasn't much fun, we bounced all the way across and not in a fun way. Bypassing New Orleans isn't a bad thing either and his route doesn't take you much out of the way at all.

Is the plug on the end of the cord a replacement type or is it molded to the cord? I have seen wires come off many times and cause your issue. Best to diagnose with a volt meter at the transfer switch IF you are comfortable working on high voltage.

YUP, while in Florida...hospitals laying off 1000 employees on the news, why? Too many empty beds. The electronic wait signs were less than 5 minutes in every ER I passed. Sounds pretty busy to me.

I bought the rolled product on here and installed it on my engine hatches since the original product was deteriorating. The product I purchased had adhesive on once side, but I added short screws with fender washers to make sure it stayed in place. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heat-barrier-and-sound-deadening-mats