rayin

I'm sorry to read of your circumstances. I like your approach to handling what life dishes up; it is what it is and I'll deal with it. A professor once told me; tomorrow isn't here yet so all we can do is plan for its coming, yesterday is past and we can't change it, we can only control today.

Google is your friend for something like this; the results depend on how and which search terms are used.

IMO grease temperature rating and grade are the most important. Some grease types are not recommended for the automatic slack adjusters, but as far as I know S-cams are not included. #2 grease is soft so it will fill voids, which eliminates the chance of water collecting and causing damage. ref: https://www.bendix.com/media/documents/press_releases/2015/TechTip_S_CamMaint_FINAL0615.pdf NLGI consistency table NLGI number ASTM worked penetration (10–1 mm) Appearance at room temperature 000 445–475 very fluid 00 400–430 fluid 0 355–385 semi-fluid 1 310–340 very soft 2 265–295 soft 3 220–250 medium hard 4 175–205 hard 5 130–160 very hard

Saferide RV motorclub is the current FMCA ERA provider. The policy contract states; quote: "Benefit does not apply to recovery work (IE: RV is down a hillside or embankment) or if the RV has been in an accident."

WildBill, it's gonna hit 94° here today, tomorrow 70° and Fridays high 68°. Sat morning 48°. I can handle hot or cold, but _really, both in 3 days? I shouldn't gripe, this cold front is keeping Fiona out in the Atlantic instead of hitting the East coast.

Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums! First step is to have the battery load-tested and cells measured with a hydrometer . If either test fails to meet standards, replace battery. The next step is to use an ammeter to measure current draw from the battery when the key is off. There should be very little, is the phantom current draw is substantial, next is locating the source. That is accomplished by unhooking things like radios and other things attached to the chassis battery one at a time while watching the DC ammeter. You may find this website quite useful:The 12V side of life

I totally agree Richard. There's a man on irv2.com who has owned/operated a DP for over 20 yrs according to him he's never performed an air brake check. crazy.

Another thing that might help is increasing the alignment castor to the maximum specified.

What is the brand and model of your refrigerator? Without that information anything suggested is just an EWAG.

Newer stud finders can detect metal framework, check them out.

Wayne get one of those glass hammers like Mac talked about; smack the windshield t shatter it, kick out the remains and walk out. If a MH is on its side, the windshield may already be broken out. Further MH damage is the least of my concerns when escape is a must.

Hello! Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums. Sadly Mac the Fire Guy is no longer with us, but 2 of his video tutorials remain. .( Mac McCoy #48271) How to escape your RV in a fire Updated RV Safety FMCA has another Fire Safety video. I can't remember the brand, but I think this is the type escape ladder he recommended for both MH's and towables. In addition, FMCA has a large video library for the convenience of members. EDIT: Morryde company made that ladder Mac used in his video, but is no longer made..

Is this the battery cables to the inverter, or just the main battery cables to the chassis? FWIW, the Xantrex website has a list of authorized repair shops nationwide. They are usually found near large bodies of water because they are commonly used on boats. I agree with Ross, it's likely a dead short somewhere.

OK-Duhh; thanks for waking me up. This means he's already riding on air springs, can't get much better ride if as you said, everything is adjusted correctly in the suspension and steering.

I agree Bill, increasing the unsprung weight will not improve the suspension stiffness. It's a truck chassis after all. IMO Liguid Springs is perhaps the only solution.

Larger tires do affect fuel mileage, by increased rolling resistance, increased wind resistance, and together they increase the amount of HP required to turn them. Keep in mind a class A MH with a gas engine is on a medium duty truck chassis with leaf springs, and will ride as such. Some things an owner can do is, travel with a full fresh water tank, keep the tire air pressure at what is listed on the federal tire placard in the vehicle, and drive a bit slower.

That is a sensor to determine when the double-acting jacks are in the store position or not. If I'm right your jacks do not have springs on each side of the ram. The models with springs have only one sensor - on the top. The double-acting jacks have two sensors, that one and another on the jack cylinder top. Down ½ way is where the RV section of this HWH system document lists drawings of each leveling system: https://www.hwhcorp.com/ML44100b6.html To help correctly identify your leveling system, this is handy: http://www.serenitysys.com/beaver/archives/HWH_System_ID_ml40256.pdf

My MH has used the same Interstate AGM starting batteries since April 2013, never a problem - yet. I plan to replace chassis and coach batteries this fall to prevent anticipated battery failure at an inopportune time.

Gee-whiz, if that is from the inside of the cylinder, I high suspect the oil system is contaminated with water. I would flush the hydraulic system completely while you have it opened up. I think HWH does have the recommended flushing procedure on their website. The opened-up system requires the rebuilt jack be prefilled with HWH oil prior to reinstallation or an air pocket will be trapped inside. After the system has been flushed and said jack reinstalled; the system must be purged of all air. HWH says to top-off the oil reservoir to full mark, run jacks through one complete cycle, check reservoir and refill as necessary. Keep repeating this process until the reservoir does not require more oil to remain at the full mark. Note: your owners manual may approve using ATF of a specific type instead of HWH oil. DO NOT use hydraulic jack oil or power steering fluid!

In 2017 I replaced the over-priced Goodyear G 670 275/70R22.5 tires with Sailun truck tires, model S637 25/70R22.5 LR H tires. Including mounting, balancing and taxes, my final bill for all 6 tires was $1,860 (I think). Sailun tires are much more available today, but prices have risen like everything else these days They are made in Vietnam to USDOT standards, and appear to be a copy of Michelin all steel belt RV tires. I am quite pleased with their performance, ride, and durability.

Measure for length, then cut a couple of 2x4's and place at the bottom on each side; OR purchase a couple of slide-lock bars. Then be sure to pull the fuse or otherwise disable the movement mechanism to prevent destroying the slide room.

For a 2011 the battery has been replaced at least once or more, so there is a way to remove/install by hand. Without the requested pictures anything more is just spitting into the wind.

N. Texas is anybodys guess in winter. I've been through N.Texas when there was bright sunshine and calm weather; then another year is was near freezing, windy and snowing. I suggest you find a local TV station along your route in Texas on your computer/cell phone for daily/weekly forecasts just before you hit the road each day. Live radar usually shows a general route of bad weather coming. As to the rest of your trip, the further South you stay the better, well-unless a hurricane is in the Gulf.

It is a 70G tank so should occupy a lot of space, and should be just in front of the rear axle for when full it will not remove weight from front axle. Sorry, That's my brain strain for today.

SpaceX and T-Mobile to Connect Starlink Satellites to Mobile Phones (businessinsider.com)