wolfe10

Only the back trailing arm design was bad, and that is what would be replaced. On the link above are photos that would allow you to very quickly determine if that coach has the newer design trailing arms. No front suspension parts were involved in the failures/no front parts require replacement.

Debay, The replacement of the defective-design rear trailing arms with the new design was a 100% fix for that problem. As to chassis handling, that is highly subjective. Kind of like comparing ride and handling of a Cadillac to a BMW. Very different!

Not all Monaco products were involved in the rear trailing arm failures. Read through the first couple of posts on this thread: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/

Shelia, By freeze, do you mean "it quits functioning"? What brand and model thermostat? of A/C?

Yes, failure to use a pressure reducer can lead to a lot more expensive and disastrous problems than a leaking valve. A busted water line can flood a coach! City water pressure varies widely, so always use a pressure reducer. There are high-flow pressure reducers available.

Ken, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two separate issues: When to winterize and how to winterize. The "when to winterize" depends on several issues. Since you are storing the coach in a heated facility, it will depend on the temperatures when you leave. It will also depend on whether your tankage, water lines, pump, etc are in a well insulated basement, uninsulated basement or exposed to outside temperatures. Many who leave sub-freezing temperatures have their coach winterized and just carry some gallon jugs of water inside until they hit appropriate temperatures. The "how to winterize" might be more appropriately called "how to winterize using the least quantity of antifreeze". Most potable antifreeze is pre-diluted. Adding it to water reduces its effectiveness. Not draining would also massively increase the quantity of antifreeze needed. Your coach should have instructions on how to winterize in its owners manual.

Since the FMCA program is brand new-- there will not be any feedback on it in older posts. Suggest it be evaluated along with the rest: http://www.fmca.com/benefits/fmca-roadassist.html

There are really multiple answers to "what is towable 4 wheels down". The official answer from the vehicle manufacturer-- and Honda does not approve the Accord for towing 4 wheels down. Yes, this often includes both mechanical considerations and legal ones. Mazda, for example has had a policy that its vehicles were not towable 4 wheels down. For years the Ford Ranger, same truck, same drivetrain, same assembly plant WAS deemed towable by Ford. The practical answer-- focuses more on the mechanical portion of the "can it be towed 4 wheels down". Certainly if a vehicle is under warranty, towing 4 wheels down could void the warranty if that towing resulted in damage. Out of warranty-- you will have to decide for yourself if you want to expand from the manufacturer's official answer. BTW, here in the FMCA website, FMCA members can pull up what the manufacturers rated as towable all the way back to 1999 (you must be logged into the main FMCA website to access them): http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html

What is the current roof material? How difficult would it be to install a new membrane/Britetech/whatever it is? How much rot is in the exposed wood? Is it plywood or OSB?

Lyle, Yes, you can run the refrigerator from an extension cord. First thing I would do is plug in something else into the outlet to see of you have 120 VAC to the back of the refrigerator outlet. If no, reset any GFI's in the coach and/or troubleshoot it. If yes, there is a fuse on the refrigerator PC board that may be out. Let us know how your troubleshooting goes.

John, First question is how the Jeep's weight compares with your motorhome's rated towing capacity as well as GCVW. Frame extension, etc by the coach builder mean that not all gas chassis (even the same year and chassis) have the same capacity.

Tow bar manufacturers have specs on maximum out of level between hitch and toad. 3" is common.

Yes, a non-closing sail switch will allow the fan to come on, but not for the gas valve to open or igniter to work. But, there are number of reasons for a sail switch to not close in addition to a bad sail switch: Low voltage is #1-- fan spins too slowly to generate sufficient CFM. Blockage in either the return or outflow side (say, for example, you closed a couple of vents). Bad connection at the PC board-- often "cured" by removing the connection and using a good electric cleaner. De-oxit makes some excellent products for this.

Agree with Ray if typical fixed-vane turbo. But, sitting for long periods of time CAN contribute to a variable-vane turbo's demise.

No, 14.3 VDC is not a problem. While driving, your alternator should (and sounds like it does) keep the batteries fully charged and should have enough reserve to power the inverter to run your residential refrigerator. I would start by verifying the the wiring from house battery bank to inverter are clean and tight. Those should be easy to identify, as they will be large gauge cables. Likely a large amp in line fuse between house battery positive and the inverter. Many inverters also have breakers on them. Would not hurt to cycle OFF and back ON.

jvmcmillan2003, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is NOT any "best braking system". That is why some companies offer several different types. An important consideration: How long will you keep your toad? If a long time, a longer initial install time and not having to move the brake system in and out is very appealing. Change every year or two or two more than just that one vehicle, a portable system would fit your needs better.

To add to Rich's questions, when was the last time a "burner area tune-up" as done. This requires no parts and addresses a number of things that can cause failure while on propane: 1. Clog in propane jet. 2. Dirt, rust or insect nest in the burner tube. 3. Improper gap or carbon build up on the ignitor/thermocouple Complete instructions may be in your refrigerator owners manual.

Yes, the licensing for those with Texas driver's licenses is as Carl posted. This is for personal use, not commercial use. But, rules governing commercial vehicles ARE different-- and suspect they are in other states as well.

Mike, Thetford has their manuals on-line: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/CUSTOMERSUPPORT/ProductManuals/tabid/265/Default.aspx

Perhaps Tuffy is indeed alive and playing MIND GAMES WITH YOU.

Yes, if mechanical, check carefully in the engine room first. A leak will leak boost as well as render the gauge inoperative. You could also take loose the hose at the engine and pressurize it to 20 PSI and verify that the cause is reading accurately.

What chassis? Mechanical or electronic gauge?

Rich, If the power to the pump is disconnected and the noise quits, he has ruled out the glow plugs and their circuit as the source. If he disconnects both, he will not know whether the glow plugs or fuel pump is the source.

First suspect is that you are hearing the electric fuel pump. You can put your hand on it and feel it pulsing. OR, you can disconnect the wire to it and see if the noise stops. It is normal/desired for the fuel pump to operate while the glow plugs are heating up.

There are three basic types of coolants: 1. Regular car coolant (like the vast majority of Prestone products. 2. Low silicate for diesel with added SCA (Supplemental Cooling Additive). 3. New generation OAT--based coolants. Sadly, coolant color is not consistent across brands. Best advice-- check freeze point (test strips from most diesel shops). If topping off with distilled water will still keep your freeze point comfortably below ambient temperatures, add distilled water. SCA's can also be tested, but if you are going to change the coolant in a month or two, with the parent bore C7, I wouldn't be too concerned about the SCA's. The reason I suggest distilled water is that it is compatible with any coolant you have in there. If you do need to lower freeze point, I would go with one of the low silicate coolants-- use concentrate to make a lower freeze point.