wolfe10

LVH2468, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Much of that depends on what part of the country you are in as well as what kind of coach you have. Here is one of the largest in the country: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale/diesel-motorhomes?sortBy=price+asc& Currently showing 130 DP's for sale, most on consignment.

Totally agree.

Very easy to verify: Even overnight, battery voltage in the absence of a charger will dissipate the surface charge and drop below 13 VDC-- even headlights for 5 minutes is enough to accomplish this. With a converter or charger on, battery voltage will be around14 VDC, particularly right after turning off shore power breaker and back on (so the smart charger goes into bulk mode). So, do this and then measure voltage at each battery bank. If chassis battery is the same as house, the chassis battery IS being charged. If chassis battery voltage is lower, it is NOT.

Consider using a terminal strip. Crimp on "eye"/ring connectors and screw then to the terminal strip.

Another option: Sounds like it could be more related to your leveling (IF your leveling system starts by dumping air in the air suspension) than the air system PSI or ride height valves/bags. Just wondering if the leveling system is going into "leveling mode" vs "travel mode".

rgains41, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While both ride and handling are somewhat subjective (same as on cars), many consider the 8 outboard suspension coaches (some Monaco products and Foretravel to be close to the top. Alpine is also near the top-- like the above they invested extra $$ in the suspension. There are some recent computer-controlled handling features that many really like (but I have no personal experience, so will not comment).

Likely several factors, like state income tax??? But, if only thinking about annual registration, in Texas, for the last couple of years, cost is very dependent on WEIGHT of coach. With more details, we can be of more assistance.

Ernie, You are a true craftsman! WOW

Have you checked RIDE HEIGHT?

Carl, I agree-- "to a point". If the FMCA IT department senses an attack and institutes protective measures, I am not sure it is reasonable to expect forewarning. Agree, if it is to be in place for more than a short time, it would be helpful/thoughtful for them to make a post to that effect.

I e-mailed my contact on the FMCA Staff yesterday and got this reply: This is totally normal, as it is just extra security for all of our domains. There was a bot that was attacking our site and was trying to compromise it, which in turn made our site slower. We implemented additional security to resolve the issue which will help keep attackers from reaching our sites. It has since been turned back off.

My information shows that starting in 2003, the P chassis used the GM 4L85E.

Sorry, Portland, of Portland cement is in England (been there, done that). But good try. Hopefully, Sillysailor will let us know which Portland is their destination. We are here to help, but need a little better defined geography.

That damage is generally caused by a loose connection. Loose connection= resistance=heat= burned wire.

Really depends on power to weight, design specs of cooling system, condition of cooling system, etc. Overheating on a DP is not that uncommon, particularly in 100 degree F temperatures on long grades. Knowing how to identify when your coach is likely to overheat and "driving around it" is something that all DP owners should have thought out ahead of time. "Plan B" is part of the heavy vehicle experience. Yes, we have climbed the Tehacahapi/Bakersfield grade in July early afternoon (driving from Flagstaff). No overheating in rear radiator DP. Just selected a gear/speed/throttle that worked and "toddled up the hill". Others passed us, but over half were on the side of the road before the crest.

wood6406, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not a HP issue. No, you won't be the first to the top of hill, but you should be able to drive it such that it does not/rarely overheats to the point of alarm. Choose a gear and throttle such that you still have a little throttle left (flooring it will still increase speed). You are in the correct RPM range. Assume this is a side radiator/CAC. If so, you also need to check that the fan is cycling to HIGH as temperature rises above thermostatically controlled temp. 160-170 sounds on the cold side for a 2001 ISC. About the only other maintenance I would do is replace the thermostat with a Cummins speced for your engine serial number. A thermostat can hang up/only partially open.

Yes, I would adjust the ride height back to factory spec. Same for any coach. Yes, be sure to have safety stands in place before fooling with the ride height adjustment!

I agree. And a side benefit is the polyurethane bushings are a little stiffer so they give better sway control.

captainmitch, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would start by gathering the facts: Pull a car-fax or equivalent. Ask to see a copy of the odometer statement (most states) signed by the previous owner. If engine hour meter, how many hours on it? Should easily be able to determine if 70k or 120k miles. Speak with the previous owner. At this point, not sure if this is a misrep by dealer or previous owner.

I understand that companies should/will develop and produce fuels based on the "economic imperatives". That can and should include legislated directives. We have seen the plus side of that with the EPA over the last 45+ years. Who in the world would have foreseen well more than 1 BHP/CID and very close to no emission in the 1970's? Ya, had sports cars back then that did the HP ( and was really fun to drive), but I digress. Makes prefect economic sense for a company to play the game-- bio diesel, ethanol....... For the planet????? Maybe not fair, but my whole career was in the automotive industry. I have seen the "can't do it" and "it is done" and then "we can deliver a LOT more HP with very low emissions".

We are getting VERY close to a political discussion here. How much diesel (produce and transport seed for crops that produce bio-diesel, farm equipment to plant, cultivate, harvest crops to be turned into bio-diesel, trucks to deliver bio material to the plant, energy to process it at the plant) is required to produce ONE GALLON of Bio-diesel? To me, that is the only relevant question. The rest is political! Anyone have current FACTS?

Sorry, BAD ADVICE. Anyone who says you are good to go with 12.60 and dropping voltage (with generator running AND and external battery charger on) on the CHASSIS BATTERY is scary. How long until it drops enough that the engine and transmission computers put you in time out? Again, you have at least TWO separate issues: The inverter/charger issue AND alternator/battery isolator issues. Which battery bank (house or chassis) did you put the external charger on? How many amps was it? With an external charger, you should be see in the high 13's to low 14's with the external charger ON.

Ya, could be a little misleading for a newbie, but Bill's comment above is right on and is talking about reserve strength of the TOWBAR, NOT CHANGE IN COACH TOWING CAPACITY: "Please explain what miss information I am giving out. What I stated is absolutely true and correct. A 10,00 lb rated towbar will have more reserve strength whether it is used in a 5000 lb receiver or a 20,000lb receiver. The main core subject of this thread is that aluminum towbars can break. So tell me why you think it is smart to use a minamaley capable tow bar or one that has a good reserve strength." Bill

Man, I know how hard you are studying, but I am not smart enough to know the answer to that one.

No idea if the electric ends are interchangeable with your generator, but: From the Dallas Craiglist: https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/rvs/d/onan-marquis-7000/6684260421.html Another option would be to remove the LP part of your old generator and install on the one you buy. Again, a good (old-time) Onan tech is your best bet for your options.