wolfe10

Does your filter have a "water in fuel" sensor? If so, draining frequently is less critical. Proper draining procedure: With engine OFF, position a clear glass jar under the drain. Open it long enough to allow any water or dirt to drain/until clear diesel comes out. If the filter is mounted high, best to do this with a full fuel tank and/or nose of coach UPHILL. This insures that the drain doesn't turn into an "inlet" allowing air in and fuel draining back to tank.

Think we may be straying from the original topic!

For checking tire pressure on duals, a "dual foot tire gauge" is needed. Google it and/or go to any auto parts house. This is ASSUMING that your gauge will not adequately contact the tire valve.

Would be interested in a picture of a DOT number indicating one that was less than 14 years old. Could one be for sale-- guess so, but a REALLY old one.

If engine idle speed is too high, the transmission will do that. At least that is the simplest explanation.

brlewis01, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. While it is probably a moot point since they need to be replaced due to uneven wear, there WILL BE a full DOT number on the tires. But it might be facing inboard. The full number with oval with date code is only on one sidewall of each tire. I am not familiar with Pirelli's in that size, so no comment on them as a choice. Assume you have also looked at the FMCA price for Continental.

Good article, BUT, that is really ancient history. Those tires have not been made 14 years! Sure hope NO 14 year old tires of any make or quality are still on the road.

Works OK on my computer.

Kawaski engine in an Onan generator??? Please post what Onan generator you have. And, as a general statement, yes all coolants need to be changed. But their effective life varies quite a lot depending on coolant chemistry. And, if OE coolant, follow your equipment manufacturer's maintenance schedule. If it has been changed, follow the maintenance schedule of the coolant manufacturer.

klmpj, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. It is a manual or automatic?

Correct. If there is not much tire wear on the current front Firestones (i.e. their revolutions per mile will be close to that of new Firestones), buy two new Firestones for the back (other side). Then whatever brand you want in front. Not an absolute, but I prefer newer/better tires in front where a blow out could be much more dangerous than a rear blow out.

No problem having different tires/brands front vs back. And, I would NOT pair the Firestones on one side in back with another brand on the other side. Two reasons: rolling radius/revolutions per mile is unlikely to be the same and in a panic stop or icy conditions, they will likely have different traction. And, be sure to verify that the rolling radius/circumference of the current Firestones are close to those of the new ones (not too worn).

Yes, any place that deals in OTR trucks will have DOT approved air valves. Drain air. Remove old one. Take it in to match threads/size.

OK, please suggest a better designation to differentiate between: "Towing-- towing behind motorhome" AND "Towing 5th wheel or trailer"

No question, you need to find out (even if it is from Safety-kleen) exactly what type of coolant you have. Color is not a fool-proof determinant of coolant chemistry. The dealership has to have a Safety-kleen part number for that drum of coolant. And an answer that they don't know what kind of coolant they installed is really scary (either lack of knowledge or lack of caring!).

Just a suggestion, but you will probably get better feedback by dividing the questions and posting them in the appropriate area (such as "electric" and "tire").

If the Allison shift pad is not illuminated unplug and properly seat the connections at the shift pad and also the two gang plugs at the Allison ECM. Your IGNITION SOLENOID is working since the dash idiot lights work. Another easy test for this is that the dash HVAC fan is working (normally wired to only work with the ignition on). There are TWO fuses to the Allison ECM-- one for memory and one for when it is "working". Check that both are hot.

It would be a LONG trip to attend one of my seminars right now-- we are in southern Argentina and headed further south tomorrow.

Simple answer really depends on whether your coach has a built-in generator. If so, it can provide all your electrical needs, both 120 VAC and through your built-in converter keep your batteries (at least house bank) charged. Tell us more about how your coach is "electrically equipped" including size of house battery bank and we can be of more assistance.

As suggested, the first step is to verify exactly what kind of wheels you have. Are they coated or "natural"/raw. Their "care and feeding" is completely different. For example, using an abrasive metal polish is perfect for raw aluminum wheels, but will ruin the finish on coated wheels. If in doubt, copy down the PN stamped on the wheel and call your wheel manufacturer.

Was at several in Pomona where weather was perfect, but parking on asphalt did require boards. Said another way, not all venues with asphalt have hot/uncomfortable weather.

Many asphalt lots require boards or other suitable devices for spreading out jack loads. Recall that at any of the FMCA Conventions where parking was on asphalt.

The answer is likely more complex than a simple YES or NO. Again, knowing exactly what inverter (or more likely an inverter/charger) will allow us to accurately answer your question. If an inverter alone, when off, it does nothing when no 120 VAC from external source (generator or shore power). When on (same conditions) it uses battery power to produce 120 VAC for those circuits "downstream" of the inverter. Even if you are not using any power, it will slowly draw down the batteries as it takes some power to be in "standby mode". Many inverters have a "pass through" feature-- basically a built-in ATS (automatic transfer switch). When you have 120 VAC from an external source it does not invert, it merely "passes through" the 120 VAC from the other source. Most inverters are really inverter/chargers. If this is what you have, when an external source of 120 VAC, in addition to the above, it will charge the batteries. And most are "smart chargers" with bulk, absorption and float voltages.

Thanks, Carl. Two very different engines. Suspect the the 380 HP is a 3176. the 300 HP being the 3126.

Sorry for my mis-information. Yes, the 1WM is a 3126. But the Marquis was a high-end offering, which generally meant heavier chassis and larger engine. Perhaps that description (larger engine) only applied to slightly newer model year Marquis. Gillig made an excellent chassis-- have worked on a friend's CC on that chassis.