kaypsmith

As Richard suggest one of the CG style boxes would be great,. Does the 50 amp box have a female plug already or must you straight wire to the box and if so what style plug is attached to the box? The RV is already set up for 30 amps so the cord from RV to plug in should be fine as long as you plug nothing else into that cord. If you choose to use only a 30 amp RV receptacle then while wiring the recep into the box, only attach the hot leg to either L1 or L2, then neutral to neutral bus bar, and ground to the ground bus bar. If the 50 amp box is properly wired the ground bus bar is isolated from the neutral, if it is not then you need it rewired anyway.

Well Bill, I bet that only your drive axel on your coach is the only axel that has a parking brake, and I also bet that a front engine gasoline coach uses only the drive axel as a parking brake, most of them use a band around the drive shaft because you can neither use air or hydraulic pressure or electrical as a parking brakel. Air brakes uses both spring loaded brake chambers to hold the brake in the absence of air. I knew that I would start a crontroversy over my statement. Yes more info would be helpful but fact is fact about the workings of E brakes.

Joe, there is a microswitch built into the pump, it is triggered by the sense of low water pressure, I think this is the switch that Herman was referring to. It of course opens back up when the low pressure has been cured, and if it does burn shut then it will remain on forever, not just on occasion, lack of water will surely result in low pressure.

The parking brake is only effective on the drive axel on any coach either air brakes or hydraulic. One should never lift the drive axel off of the ground for this very reason, if a situation ever arises that forces the drive axel be lifted, then the chocks should be placed on the front tires to stop the vehicle from rolling. Agreed Herman, and this especially applies to the drive axel. And yes to your question, I do have a set of chocks that I have used on rare occasions, the rubber ones in a triangular shape with a rubber tube attached for a handhold (found at many truckstops) work best for me. I edited and added this for wandering minds, not wondering minds, NO braking system can hold a vehicle without the braked tire on the ground. Chocks work the same way, they depend on the pressure against the ground to keep the rolling stone from moving.

Reserve America is the worst thing that has happened in the South Parks, too many from other places have learned how to beat the system. The misfits sign in and reserve 4 or more sites months in advance, when they arrive at the CG, they will in turn tour the CG and decide which campsite they would rather stay on and settle on that one. They in turn cancel the others and are only charged for one day stay on the cancelled ones, leaving partial week vacancies on those. I used to stay at StGeorge island in Florida every spring, then RA came into the picture and we can only reserve eleven months in advance, and as soon as the window opens, all sites are already taken, such a shame. I know this is true because the park attendants whom I know well have explained to me what is happening.

Yes, in many cases it is very hard to find a place to camp if you really prefer staying in a campground. But if you don't mind dry camping, Walmart, Sams club, and many others don't mind in most cases you staying overnight if local ordinances will allow it. Many times if you get to a campground, it is already booked full and you will find it hard to get a campsite without reservations. I personally hate the fact that I must make reservations 6 months to a year in advance, but that is the way it is in many cases. Good luck in your quest's, and hope you will have many tales to share with us.

My first visit to NewYork state, I thought I had met the rudest people in the world, then I went to Seattle Wa., and found that the NY people were very nice folks compared to Wa..

Don't know about the new coach configuration, but you may find that the sound has been muted. There is probably a way to go into settings and correct this if you have the manual for the camera. I agree with others that the roar of the diesel motor overloads the sound on most coaches.

Taillight converters are an usually an add on device, and in most cases are located where the pigtail has been added onto the rear of the coach where the pigtail begins and the wires in the other direction usually go to the wires that the coach lights are connected to. Hope this helps.

Don't miss the Naval museum of flight!

I was in the middle of typing when the power went off in the house, so I came to the MH to resume, I was going to say that I-20 should not be in your directions, and I-12 as Carl pointed out is a good bypass of NO. Been three years since last time I went that way, was then and probably always be some construction on those roads.

Mark, does that junction box have a name on it? Most likely that is the transfer switch, if it has three wires, it probably is.

Gee, just read your other post, seems that the technician may need an electricians course, I believe you should ask him to look into the transfer switch problem also, probably has something to do with him as well.

Mark, the transfer switch is usually located in the bay where the shore power cord is and will be wired normally wired into the surge guard and from the surge guard into the transfer switch.

DO NOT USE LT tires, those are light truck tires, use ST tires these are special trailer rated, nearly all manufacturers produce ST tires. I know nothing about Hartland tires but ST should be used instead of LT.

I too have a bus conversion, I don't usually recommend spray foam in these situations because there is some flame non resistance, but that is what I used because of ease of installing it. I shot about 1.5 inches, then leveled it after it dried, then glued air conditioning duct insulation to that, it's a half inch thick and very dense with a foil glued to it from the factory, has worked very well for 7 plus years. If you don't want to go to that extreme, you can use foam insulation up to two inches at the top (under the floor) then cover that with the AC duct insulation and over the walls as well, the thicker foam mounted under the floor and covered will dampen the generator sound very well.

A little more information on your needs, age, and many other questions will be helpful in getting the best information. I am 75 years young and use a medicare advantage plan for my health insurance. I am not aware of any connection of FMCA with any medical insurance provider as a benefit to it's members, and since medical insurance is mandated now by the federal government, those plans should readily available to almost anyone, all medical health insurances that I know about are usually your home medical plan. There may be some companies that will provide emergency treatment but again I don't really know. If there is an accident involved, your motor vehicle insurance should be relied upon and all other should be billed directly to your home medical insurance. Hope this helps but if not, wait for others, or no response come back here and add any clarifications to your needs. Good luck with your quest's.

As suggested on your other post, I would highly recommend that you replace all that old polybutylene pipe with PEX. The old stuff has been outlawed anyway because of cancer causing substances within the material makeup of the pipe. PEX is very easy to work with and is freeze tolerant. However I would not use plastic couplings, only brass for lasting purposes. Plastic or brass are not freeze tolerant, so they should always be protected. I used SharkBite or gatorbite fittings for simplicity, and if you use these type fittings, be sure to use a good PVC pipe cutter and lightly sand with a fine grit paper or cloth, the push on fittings use a rubber O-ring to make a seal and are very easy to cut if a burr is left on the pipe. Again good luck with the renovation.

I tried many years ago to get a class B CDL, I was rejected because it required a medical, not self certified, my doctor filled it out and when I took it to the CDL testing location, I was immediately rejected. Reason, I am diabetic and on insulin. Now, while I was on the pill, I had blackouts and was un controllable, the doctor switched me to insulin, have not had a blackout since, that was 25 years ago. Now in their infinite wisdom I am not suitable to drive anything that requires a CDL, but if I were diabetic and took the pill, I could qualify, go figure. A class B license would qualify the OP to operate a MH anywhere in the US or he could even drive a school or passenger bus also. Same requirements as any CDL except the hazmat portion you will not need to take that part of the test. If I could qualify for a CDL, I would certainly have one now. Fortunately for me, Alabama does not require a special license for a private MH, so I am covered to drive my MH anywhere is the US. TJ!

Thanks Herman, it is well out of warranty, 2000 model. LOL.

Great looking job, and use of available materials.

As Herman said, the best thing to do is look at some bus conversions. I have done three and which included two motorhomes and one and a half bus conversions, half is still in progress. Here is the best source of information that I found and used many tricks of the trade this included in it. It will be well worth while to order it and anyone else that likes to piddle with their own coach. https://www.amazon.com/Bus-Converters-Bible-2nd/dp/1890461202 Good luck with your project and either get back here or save my FMCA credentials if I can be of any help. I have seen the Apollo brand before and it is a great looking and well built machine. What engine does this one have in it?

Since we're on the subject, last trip out, DW checked to make sure wheels and steering was ok, then took the key out of ignition, (must leave in accessory mode to unlock the steering wheel) I didn't know the key was out for 230 miles where I unhooked the toad, DW complained of burning smell, two two month old semi aggressive tires are now toast. Live and learn, LOL.

The thermocouple is probably the culprit why the gas wont stay lit, that is what senses whether there is a flame or not. Cant understand why the electric element isn't working unless bad element, or under sediment. Thermocouple may not be positioned it the flame correctly.

The CAC is as much important as the radiator. How hot does your gauges show when the alarm goes off? The heat sending unit to the alarm may be faulty, just a thought for things to look for, if there is a separate sensor.