kaypsmith

Most fuel tubes for the generator are by design 1/4 off the bottom of the tank, this way no gauge is necessary, and these type systems do not lie about how full the tank really is.

If you can get to it in time, it can be a useful criminal deterrent also. Hope I never get shot by one.

Dave, I'm not Rich of course but, the solenoid (starter relay) you are referring to is part of the isolation circuitry that isolates the house batteries from the chassis batteries while the coach is not running, to help assure that the house circuitry does not draw against the chassis batteries when the coach is not running, the relay just above the solenoid is what activates that solenoid for auxiliary start in case of failed chassis batteries. Not likely that it has anything to do with deactivating any chassis components unless it is overheating and causing a thermal circuit breaker to sense an overheat condition. If there is and probably is such a breaker in the chassis wiring. A bad cell in a house battery could show up as a problem in this circuit. But as Bill pointed out, bad grounds can be a culprit, and the house battery bank ground system as well as all grounds in the chassis wiring would be my first check points. I also noticed that that the solenoid is a two wire solenoid, is there a ground wire attached there when the board is installed? If it is not there it should be otherwise the solenoid cannot function as intended. While looking at the picture I overlooked your reference to page 307, all of the above is in reference to your picture, sorry for overlooking this.

Probably a bank robber, needs a place to haul the loot!

Tim, not sure how your Damon is wired, but most coaches use the house batteries to start the generator. If you have a battery boost switch, you might try holding it while trying to start the generator, it works both ways. Also if the house batteries are up to a full charge and still will not start, check all grounds in the battery compartment and also make sure that the generator has a good ground. This is in addition to Herman's suggestions which are very important.

I also assumed that your coach is 30 amp, I have used up to 75 feet on my 50 amp service with not enough degradation to cause an alarm situation on the surge guard, and that is with approved extensions, #6-3 with #8 ground. Of course that is with an approved 50 amp CG pedestal.

I'm currently using T-Mobile for phone and data, 55+ plan $40.00 per month if enrolled in auto pay, have not had any data throttling up to 100 gig used so far usually at speeds up to 40 mbs down and up in good locations some slow down if congestion in an area. They also have 5 G plans available nationwide, not sure about cost. On the 55+ plan you can have 2 lines for $40.00 each, interesting, no additional charges such as taxes or other fees, all is included in the $40. per month. I haven't been out of the southeast yet, but in this area, coverage is almost equal with Verizon.

Walmart carries a 30 foot 30 amp rv extension cord in stock, they are located in the RV accessory aisle in most of their stores if you need one in a hurry. As stated above please be sure that there is a RV receptacle to plug into, if not this cord will still work better than a lighter weight cord and you can also use an adapter for 20 to 30 amp more effectively than a lighter gauge wire as well will have it in your collection for use in a regular campground later if needed. Not advertising for Walmart, just easier to find there if other RV part stores are not available. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Road-Power-10-3-Gauge-30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord-30-Feet/16817354?adid=22222222254365962725&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=b&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=413469569444&wl4=dsa-895892715077&wl5=9012455&wl6=10533009237

Carl, you should be happy, what's with the hand wringing?

I had a blowout many years ago on an inside dual drive axel, cost to have that tire replaced was over $2000.00, it took out the air bag and several brake components withy the big bang. Please, think safety first. There are trusted tire shops that will dismount your current and advise if there is indeed any possible life in those, never trust a tire kicker that says all is well, IMHO.

That's a big old steer tire, must be a Freightliner/dump chassis, LOL.

I beg to differ, standing wave ratio is important at any wattage, at 5 watts without a good SWR 1.1 to 1.5, the radio is almost useless and will burn the finals out prematurely as well. Also The FRS (family radio service) is pretty good for caravans, and extremely good for two or more vehicles following closely, cheap and no license required.

REST AREA, UNDER 24 HOUR SURVEILENCE HAVE A NICE DAY

Sounds to me that a charge wire is needed for the toad to keep the battery from draining. And as Carl said check out the owners manual for instructions concerning keeping the chassis batteries from discharging and or making sure that it is being charged while sitting.

Beautiful rig Linda, congratulations on both.

These are obviously air brakes and the brake pedal and the accelerator pedal are much or just alike as are nearly all air brake installations are. I have not seen any other style myself but there could be. The fact that the accelerator is on the right and the brake is on the left should be enough to know the difference though this being the OP's first encounter with such a configuration. Just getting used to that fact will soon become a norm most likely. I find the pedals being close to each other and not having to move the foot so far while changing for accel to brake is much more comfortable that driving a car, as well as the fact that these are air brakes not requiring so much force to stop renders a more useful atmosphere because the air brake would be so easy to step on too hard causing an abrupt stopping and discomfort too all on board. Just take it easy, you will soon learn to appreciate the design.

Sorry Carl to not explain, Red, Green, Blue Yellow, multicolor and you choose the color and combination.

Residential Fridges are like just about everything else if you take care of them, they will take care of you. The largest maintenance item with a RF is keeping the coils clean and make sure the fridge has adequate ventilation.

Best place to start is in your own driveway for a week. Write down everything that you have to go to the house for, then make a list, then condense it so that you will not overload the camper. Another list to make is the setup list to get you started, park, level, let out the awning, put up the TV antenna, you will get the picture. Now, when you get ready to depart, work the list in reverse order. You will learn how to refine this list, just remember, if you put something out or up while setting up, you will need to do opposite when departing, this includes the electric cord, water hose, and sewage. I find very few do everything in an exact order, so will be best to make your own list. Happy trails and tales, Kay.

Make sure the lights are outdoor weatherproof when you order them. The aluminum strips mentioned above work great, not those clear plastic ones. I attached the aluminum strips alongside each side of the bus with aluminum pop rivets, seven years still working great. I used amber color and will soon change them to rgby.

A+, actually the 40th formula attempt before releasing the product for use by the public.

Not nearly as flammable as it used to be, earlier version was propelled by LP gas, now non flammable air. I used to use it to start a hard starting lawnmower, not any more. I wonder how many know what WD40 stands for? sure hope the fridge goes back to work after drying out this time.

I realize that steel is what you have, but now is a perfect time to also look into aluminum wheels. Of course the studs will need to be changed for thicker aluminum wheels. I have found both steel and aluminum on ebay at reasonable prices.

A tone generator and probe, and learn how to use it is one of the best investments one can make for these situations. https://www.amazon.com/Finder-Generator-Tracer-Tracker-Network/dp/B072ZRVS47/ref=asc_df_B072ZRVS47/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312240492844&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11388177951697174524&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012455&hvtargid=pla-570294638076&psc=1 This reference is only to show what it is, can be purchased from many sources.

Been through this same situation with a friends motorhome. His was so bad that he kept replacing pads every 1000 miles. We replaced all brake hoses on all four locations and no more problems since.