kaypsmith

Check the DOT date code on the tires. On a 2014 coach, those tires may be OEM (original equipment), if so the tires could be 5 to 6 years old. Most owners want to change the tires at about 6 to 7 years anyway. If they are that old, I would change both at the same time, if newer than that, if you can buy a matching tire, then I would just replace the one. Others probably have other ideas, but since the fronts are not duals, a slight difference in diameter or circumference is not that big of a deal. Welcome to the forum.

What color are the two wires? All LP detectors in a coach that I have seen are 12 volt DC, usually one red or black and one white, only one leg hot and the other ground, if you use a volt meter across them they should read 12+ with meter set to DC. Welcome to the forum, and hope you find a good answer. Kay

Yes I understood that it is a 12 volt compressor, that is why I advised to do as the compressor instructions advised, and as Richard said you could use the house batteries, but I also think that it makes good sense to crank the engine if for nothing else, to make sure that it is ready for travel when you are. And of course there is always warnings to not crank a diesel without adequately running it.

Yes, fire up your coach. In all likelihood your chassis batteries are being charged while on shore power due to the fact that it is so new, the way to tell if they are is to check with a stand alone meter (VOM), if chassis and house batteries are the same after not running the coach engine for several days, then they are being charged while hooked up to shore power. The air compressor pulls excessive current while airing tires and will draw the chassis batteries down pretty fast, the chassis alternator will replenish much faster than a smaller charger.

Creekside is my favorite, just a little out towards Wears Valley and just off 321, it is a Passport park if you are a member, and honor the discount Sunday through Thursday unless a special event week. It's less than half mile off of the parkway and pretty easy to maneuver to. Oh yes, the Foothills Parkway has been completed to Wears Valley now, and 321 has been widened enough to Townsend to accommodate any size MH or 5er., which makes it easier when traffic is peaked on the Parkway. There is also a quaint but nice CG in Wears Valley with great people running it, prices are better than Townsend, Smoker Holler is the name of the CG, there is a nice restaurant next door, Elvira's is the name, excellent food and reasonably priced Prime Rib on Friday night (DELICIOUS).

Engine oil and transmission fluid analysis, before the stored oil and fluid have been changed, will be a good starting point to get the best opinion to your question.

Many call centers these days are nothing more than a computer connected to the internet next to a home phone. The answerers are given a crash course on how to respond to a call, and when to send the call to a higher up. I have learned over the years that if I am not getting a proper response to my problem to ask for a supervisor, all operators have one and most will move to the next level. I am not saying that FMCA operates this way, but this is a common practice.

I went with MCI also for that reason, the year model of mine, 1988, Greyhound actually owned MCI, as well as several other years. These particular years longevity and safety were primary concerns. Since the Greyhound selloff of MCI, the manufacturer has retained very high standards. When I need parts, I call MCI and usually have replacement parts within 24 hours, on a 31 year old coach!

Acrylic (plexiglass) mirror sheets are available at most glass shops if just replacing the glass will suffice. Let the pro's cut it for you and DO NOT use any adhesive on the back to hold it in place.

Rich. I use 20 for these type projects, it is also beautiful as a backsplash, cleans up with regular glass cleaner unless a lot of grease buildup, in this case I use Dawn dish soap then polish with Windex and news paper, LOL. Thinner will wrinkle too badly. To install on a plywood backing, contractors glue in a caulking gun lasts for years.

How much of the work can you do yourself? If you can do most, that is reasonable expectations, if you must depend on others for more than 50%, your figure is about 50% low. Another consideration for this type coach, how tall are you? Over 6' look for a raised roof, if under, stay away from the raised roof, the added height cost pretty close to 1 MPG. I did my complete conversion for $25,000.00 on the MCI 41.5' stripped bus. I of course did all the work myself. Best engine to look for is a C60 Detroit, parts are readily available and almost any truck shop will work on it. Not knocking Cat or Cummings, but the Detroit is easier to find a mechanic for a bus, at a more reasonable price. Oh yes almost forgot, we have four Yorkies that go everywhere we go, I built two kennels, one for each side of the couch, in the parlor, made sure that heat and AC vents were placed so that they stay comfortable, the kennels look like lamp or knick knack stands.

I am slowly replacing all mirrors inside with mirrored stainless steel. I use 20 gauge and keep watching Ebay for bargains, the one in my bathroom is 36"X48", cost $46.00, has been there four years now and nobody knows the difference unless I tell them. A nice wooden frame is easy to make and one can break up the look by using a picture or paneling for part and the steel for the other part. Barn door style has become a craze lately and the roller hardware is cheap and works much better than those original slides ever did. Oh yes, if you like the frameless look, most good sheet metal shops can brake the sides for a near perfect look. For what it may be worth, Lowes carries a large assortment parts for sliding doors, mirrors, etc., carry what needs replacing and ask for help.

If I understand correctly, this must be an older CG with only 30 AMP service, in other words there is no 50 AMP available in the entire park. If this is correct then there could be a problem with the entire CG, and it sounds as though it is. If nothing else available in this CG other than 30 amp, I would probably look for another CG nearby, as mentioned above it sounds as though the CG is inadequately wired and most likely underpowered throughout. If AC is a must, I would use my generator as much as possible until a move can be made.

I would make sure that all 12 volt high amperage connections are cleaned and properly installed including all ground to chassis connections, this also includes cleaning all battery connections. This exercise can't hurt anything and may actually cure some or all of the ailments.

The only thing that I see wrong with this part of the story is! What type oil was the previous owner using and how often did he change it? Even at only 70,000 miles I would never go to full synthetic oil if I had no indication that synthetic had been used exclusively in the past. I'm a firm believer in synthetic oil, I use it in all of my automobiles and would in the coach if it had been used in the past, but it wasn't. Synthetic oil has a tendancy to clean the engine thoroughly and can cause break down of parts if cleaned too quickly. If you start your new engine out with full synthetic, I will bet a six pack that it will last a much longer life.

When I push the COACH rocker switch to "STORE", then I hear the battery disconnect motor make a soft noise for a second and then the red LED light goes off, and the house lights and fan go off as well. When I push it back to "use", the red LED comes back on and the house lights, etc. work. Nothing happens when I press the CHASSIS rocker switch to "STORE": I do not hear the soft noise made by the disconnect motor and the CHASSIS red LED light always remains on. I think that you are misreading coach and chassis. COACH actually represents house batteries in this case, and CHASSIS represents the truck (for lack of a better word) batteries, at least here in Alabama it's that way. There may have been an issue at some point in time with the chassis disconnect and someone may have discontinued use of that switch, or the solenoid may have failed. Many times I have seen chassis disconnects bypassed because with age they become weak and will not pass enough current the crank the engine. Good luck with it and understanding it also. Kay Actually "USE" means just that, when on it is ready to use, "STORE" means that you are putting it away, ready for storage, this is to keep those 12 volt items from working or pulling those batteries down. If your solar cells are working and the unit is parked in sunlight, they should be able to keep your lights on for a pretty good length of time, 200 watts @ 12 V is about 16 amps, and depending on what type of lights you have. LED will last longest, fluorescent about mid, and Incandescent depending on wattage probably the shortage. I would recommend either getting someone, or learning how to remove the run condition of the generator from the ignition circuit of the chassis, I would certainly want to be able to run the generator without having to leave the ignition switch of the vehicle in the run position.

It sounds as though your battery disconnect switch on the house batteries is doing its job. Battery disconnect means just that, it disconnects the batteries for storage and thereby stops any parasitic drain. This switch is often referred to as the salesman switch. Now for the generator, it appears that it is wired to use the chassis batteries for starting and running, it may have came that way from the factory, or someone has rewired it to behave this way, hard to say without wiring schematics for your coach. The soft motor sound that you hear is probably a solenoid that engages when you turn the rocker switch to use and disengages when in store mode. Also the house lights and fans sound as though they are wired correctly because you stated that work in use position and do not work in the store position. Hope this is helpful for understanding your coach.

I have on many occasions ordered mirrored stainless steel very close to the size needed at a reasonable price, After drawing out an entire piece to scale taking them to a good shop that not only does plasma cuts, but also has a machine to water cut. This type stainless when cut and formed correctly usually looks better than the painted fiberglass anyway. 20 gauge is cheaper, and is easier to work than 16 and will serve almost as well. There is also a lot of bus conversion fiberglass parts available, worth googling to find what is available.

Thanks Herman, I shopped three different truck parts in B'ham. area and N.A.P.A with no luck, when I went to Lowes, I opened every drawer in their specialty drawer, not exactly the same but a very good work around. Of course my unit is now thirty one years old now, trying to catch up with me LOL.

If the rubber grommets need replacing, I had better luck finding a replacement at Lowes than at an auto supply.

Does the big relay have two small wires or only one? Maybe a better way to ask, does the relay have one or two small post? If two, are both wires attached?

If this is a standard air suspension system, and I assume that it is. The ride height is controlled by a ride height valve. There could be one or more issues, the first thing be sure to crank the engine and air up the system, all the while listening for air leaks and observe whether the system raises the front on a recranked scenario. Most coaches use a single ride height valve on the front bags, if yours is equipped this way. If the unit does not raise on the front this time, you will need to check the above mentioned valve. Now for the warning, you should be able to raise the front with your hydraulic levelers is your coach has them, if not other hydraulic jacks can be used if onboard levelers are not available but, DO NOT CRAWL UNDER THAT COACH WITHOUT ADEQUATE JACK STANDS OR ADEQUATE BLOCKING!!!!!!!!. Never ever crawl under a coach using air suspension or any other style jack without using jack stands or adequate blocking, I'm sure you already have seen how low the coach can go without safety devices, which can cause serious injury or DEATH. Now back to inspecting the ride height valve, look carefully and expect to see a shaft protruding from the valve with a small steel rod that connects to the chassis, this rod should be equipped with a means to be adjusted. Many times I have seen these either broken or has actually came loose at either end. If there no air leaks or no blockages in the air lines attaching to the main air supply or to the bags and the adjusting linkages are intact then you may have a bad valve. Be sure to check all of the mentioned places before replacing the valve. Most of these valves are easily replaced and pretty easy to find either a dealer for your coach, or almost any truck supply will have an assortment that will match. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

The dash engine light should be connected to the ECM, and the sensors on the engine should be connected to the ECM. I suggest the ECM should hooked to by an ECM reader and pull the fault code from it, this should tell you what sensor that you should look for. Hopefully your tightening will serve you well.

How many receivers do you have? How many coax cables to the satellite dish? How does the receiver connect to the TV, through coax or do you use HDMI or AVI cables? These questions must be answered before you can get good answers. When you are connected to a cable network does the outside TV work on cable now?

I removed those ducts from my bus while doing the conversion, mine was nothing more than a thin sheet of micarta, with half inch spacers to keep the correct distance from the aluminum sheet metal that covers the studs and insulation. I used a custom made stainless steel channel to cover the piping through the floor and then used decorative venting next to the floor. You may be able to use some type of soft bristle brush with a long thin handle to scrub yours. Just a thought, by the way I thought there might have been some type of honeycomb between mine, but there wasn't, just empty space with those standoff's that I described.