hermanmullins

Deen, I don't want to be a smart alek but have you, tried calling them. I just visited with him in Madison and all is well. Herman

Win Sr. I see you are fairly new to the Forum, so Welcome. As you are probably aware of, 95%+ of my fuses are in the compartment just in front of the Drivers front wheel. It sounds like you may have a relay that isn't working. The relays in my Dynasty's fuse compartment is very well labeled. You might start there. Herman

Lyle, Here is an example of Propane usage. We were with a group of friends in Hutchinson, Kansas. We had our evening hour of happiness between two coaches. One of the coaches had their Hot water heater on, on propane. That unit cycled about every 45 min. to an hour. and ran for about 5 minutes. Over the days that amounts to quite a high use of gas. As Brett said more propane is used by leaving the unit on all the time then just when you need hot water. It doesn't take much time to heat 10 gallons of water. When we are in an RV park hooked up the power I have paid for, I use their power to heat my water. Herman

fhutson, You might try looking under your steps. You can see them by looking under the passengers side front corner. If that is where it is you may access the top of the unit by looking under the top step. There should be a removable tub and another tub that is held in place by several screws. remove the second tub and you should be looking at the top of the reservoir. It is most likely an HWH unit and takes ATF fluid. This is where my reservoir is located on our Monaco. Herman

If you see a Red Lifted Golf Cart Stop me and we will try to visit. Look forward to meeting face to face the friends I have had the opportunity to meet here on the Forum. Visited with Rich and Brett in Madison. Herman

Bill, It appears that it is leaking from the rear some where. Brett and I have been communicating by PM and one idea he had was to tighten the bolts at the bottom of the radiator. I did added water and it looked like it may have stopped. I placed a pan under where it was leaking. An hour later we had more then a gallon of fluid in the pan. Will be calling Source Engineering for a quote on a new radiator. Thanks again for everyones help and ideas. Leaving in a few minutes for Conroe, Truck and trailer loaded with Golf Cart and lots more. Herman

mrtoots, Welcome to the Forum. I am not even going to ask where you handle came from. There is a finance broker in Florida, Essex. I am sorry I can't find their information just yet. You might try to google their name. They helped when we purchased our last MH. Herman

Gentleman, thanks for all your suggestions. I found out the problem was not the air pressure alarm. It turned out to be the low water alarm. Found a severe leak in the radiator. Will be at a motel in Conroe. Thanks again for all the quick response from everyone. Herman

We do as Bill said, we leave the Gray valve opened when parked for an extended time. However I always close it the day before we plan on departing. This allows for the tank to fill some to flush the hose after dumping the Holding tank. Herman

rwitt, Checking each appliance as Tom said is a good suggestion. Appliances are like us, as we get older it takes more for us to get going. But, hay, we live in the country and the lights dim and flicker all the time. (not just us, it's the same with the neighbors to) Ah, the fountain of Youth for appliances, I beleive it's called Lowe's or Home Depot. Herman

Bill, Thanks for the confidence. Ray, Thanks for the location and numbers. Tom, You are up way too late, will be out just as soon as it is day light to check the fuses. Gentlemen THANKS. Herman

Thanks, I am sending Monaco tech a email tonight. We will talk in a PM soon, lots to tell you. Herman

I just started the coach. The low-pressure alarm sounded as normal. When the pressure reached past 80 psi, it did not go off. When it reached 130 psi, the alarm would not go off. When I shut off the engine, the pressure dropped to approximately 110 and holds there. I cycled the parking brake several times and restarted the engine, and the alarm came back on. I have to leave Wednesday a.m. for Conroe. Ideas welcomed.

Ron, The water line to our Ice maker had a small drip at the solenoid valve. I gave it just a slight turn to tighten and it stopped. Hope yours is just as simple. Herman

Tom, if the unit that failed is the original, I would go back with the same one, 21 years of service ain't bad. Herman

Jim, I was going to wait for two of my sons to come up and help out, but I decided what the heck. I took it out the door with out any problems. However it is on the driveway in front of the Garage in about ten peices. I was going to scrap the box any way so I took my saw and cut it into pieces I could carry out. Not your conentional way but hay no one has ever accused me of being conventional. Cleaning every thing and when we settle down will begin to modify the opening for our new Samsung. Going to a Rally next week. Hope to see some of you folks there. Herman

Lee Welcome to the Forum, John D has a son that has made some of the items you might need for your power reel. Give him a call. Just one thing, When you type in all capitals it indicates that you are shouting and I am sure that was not your intention. Hope you can get the necessary parts for your reel. Herman

Thanks Puff. I have all the doors and shelving off and out. Going to take it out this weekend. Will get the new unit purchased when the world settles down. We got a nice little 4.5 cf Refg/Freezer that works for now and will make a nice addition to my office soon. Let go to a Rally!! Herman

Congratulations Bennie, sounds like you made a nice replcement. Now if you have a leak you will know it when the wife begins to talk funny. Let us know how it preforms. Herman

Puff, we seem to have two post going at the same time on just about the same issue. When I pulled the old NorCold out, the coils on the back were so rusty it amazed me that they were holding any gases at all. However I was lucky when I looked at the floor of the opening the wood was in great shape. I have heard horror stories of some that had rotted away. Herman

No Puff it was not working at all. When the tech from Discount RV in Hutchinson, KA. opened the out side cover you could see the yellow stains everywhere. I now have the unit out sitting in the middle of the floor and the smell of ammonia is so strong I had to open windows and leave the vent fan on last night. Hope the oder is gone this morning. Just for the labor involved I would loved to have saved the unit. 13 years it surved itself well. I plan on having my sons take it out the front door this weekend. I need to remove the coolling unit from the back of the fridg. Since there may be some more ammonia in the system are there any safety steps I should take before cutting the lines? We plan on using a small unit we purchased till our Rallies calm down and I have time to make proper modifications to the opening for our new unit. Herman

Puff, I agree and am not out t scare anyone. I had made the decission when in Hutchinson that if my unit could be repaired for under $300.00 then I was ready to have it repaired. However my unit had leaked the ammonia out making it cost effective, at least for me, to go forward with the resident. unit. As youeself I had no problem with the norcold as long as it worked. Mine died, RIP. I do have several shelves, 4 Wood covered doors and a like new ice maker. Herman

Jimmy, Low 12 volt voltage can keep the frig. from coming on (the PC board is 12 VDC). However if your frig. is on but not cooling then that is a different issue. Questions: has your unit had both Nevercold recalls done. If yes, on to the next question. The little black box installed on the last recall has a red light on it. Is it on ? if so it may need to be reset. This can be done with a strong magnet. Turn off the unit and rub the magnet all over the black box. Then turn the unit back on. If the red light is off then wait awhile and see if your unit begins to cool. Now the real bad news. If you see YELLOW STAINS on and around the burner flue then the unit has a leak and is most likely toast. Hope it is just low voltage or need to be reset. Herman

Thanks for all the great advice and comments. We just returned from Volunteering at the Kansas State Fair, with a group of FMCA members from Six-State. The Nevercold died just before we left and we bought a small 2 door unit from HD. Had to learn to use it. Over loaded it and things in the back froze and in the front got cool. It did work for the trip. I plan on removing the Nevercold this week and putting the small unit in the hole till we have more time to complete the replacement. We have the Six-State Rally in Conroe then on to our chapter Rally in Kerrville. If any of you are coming to the Rally in Conroe, please stop me and say Hi and Howdy. As for the gentlemen that spoke of the magnet, they work lots of times however in our case it turned to be a moot point. We call Discount RV in Hutchinson and Heith came out open the compartment door and said "TOAST". Thought we had not smelled it the ammonia was leaking. "DEAD". Thank goodness, I have been waiting for this day to replace it. Will keep you up on the never ending saga of Herman on the Road. Thing I could tell if I were as elegant with words like Tom. Look for us down the road. Herman

Matthew, Welcome to the Forum. As many on this Forum will tell you, I prefer the M & G Engineering unit. It is designed to operate by applying pressure directly to the Master Cylinder and not by applying pressure to and through the Power Brake Booster. It applies the same pressure as the brakes on your coach. All that being said, I didn't ask what kind of coach you are getting, gas or diesel. My statement above is for the diesel pusher with air brakes. M & G does make a unit for gas coaches but I am not familiar with it. I do know it requires an air pump. Good luck on your new coach. Join FMCA and a chapter if you haven't already done so. Herman