wolfe10

To bypass a solenoid merely remove the large-gauge wires from one large lug and ADD them to the other large lug. You could use a jumper, but would have to be extremely careful to not touch any metal (ground). Moving the wires is a lot safer. And put a bread tie, paint mark or record wire numbers of those you move so you can return them to their original position to disconnect your bypass. And, likely some confusion here. The CHASSIS battery, not house battery powers the dash and starter. So the salesman switch that turns off 12 VDC to interior lights, etc is not involved-- at least on any motorhome I have worked on.

Two ways: Check shocks physically. If they are leaking oil (not just damp, but leaking) they are bad. If the bushings are shot/have play, they are shot. And, test them for proper dampening. Drive over shopping center speed bump as regular/low speed. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, the shocks are bad.

Excellent question. I e-mailed FMCA's Publishing Director and got this reply: Hi, Brett, The ballot will appear in the September, October, and November issues, with a deadline for returning by mail of November 30, 2017. I’m guessing more communication will take place with members, but I’m not sure what the plan is. Chris’ first day back from Indy was today so we haven’t met.

To post a link: Highlight and copy the link-- easy on another window. Click on the "chain link" symbol above (hoovering over it says "link"). Paste the link. Click "insert into post.

Trynforpar, If you really are interested in finding a service company in your area, you might want to go back and edit the title to reflect that.

OR, in lieu of or in addition to: pull the positive from an "ignition hot" location. Key off, no power to it.

Well said!

Steve, I am reluctant to send a new member of the FMCA Forum to another website, but for that very coach-specific issue, you might want to post on the Safari-specific site: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/conversations/messages

Correct. Replacing sway bar bushings is quite simple with basic hand tools and no "heavy lifting" is needed.

In a word, NO. Changing sway bar bushings, or even sway bars will NOT affect caster, camber or toe.

Exactly correct. It is not just your fueling, but the guy who may be filling across the island from you.

Correct. Absolutely do NOT run the exhaust fans unless the temperature of air at the exhaust fan is higher than the temperature outside. Said another way, only if the inside is superheated-- for the first couple of minutes. There is no "free lunch". Removing 2000 CFM of interior air WILL be replaced by 2000 CFM of outside air at whatever temperature and humidity it is. And, yes humidity is a real consideration, as it takes a lot of BTU's to condense that water vapor into condensate.

That is certainly one perspective. But a counter perspective (and one I agree with) is that in today's world, where virtually everyone starts with searches for answers on-line is that the FMCA Forum is a very low cost way to introduce motorhome owners to the benefits of FMCA membership. That "click" is a lot more cost effective way of reaching prospective members than print ads, etc. If, for example, a search for three or four separate motorhome-related issues all land the FMCA Forum in the top couple of hits, there is a lot more likelihood of that person joining FMCA than if they did not have that exposure to us.

I have not replaced one recently enough to give "what is best 15k today". Post what you can about what you need-- certainly if this is ducted/non-ducted.

A 15 degree delta suggests a poorly functioning A/C. Were this my 28' Trek, I would replace the A/C with a 15k unit.

What was temperature as measured at the air return and then at the A/C outlet/vent? Said another way, what was the temperature delta???

When you say the A/C was serviced and also that CFM's appear low, please verify that you cleaned both the return filters AND the EVAPORATOR. The evaporator can only be cleaned from the roof after removing the cover and then the cover over the evaporator. On that age unit, the A/C unit may still be fully functional, but evaporator badly clogged with dirt and debris-- the filters are not that effective on RV roof airs!

Yes, a reasonable conclusion.

Agree, it is becoming a lost art, repeat art. Not something a kid with 20 minutes of instruction can do. But, there ARE still some old-fashion OTR truck service centers that have both equipment and personnel to do it and you will even occasionally find a shop that still does TIRE TRUING!!!

rhinderber, Is your coach wired for 30 or 50 amp shore power?

F470227, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Let us know where you are-- perhaps someone will have first hand information for you. Best answer is to find a shop (yes there are still a few left) who can balance the front tires/wheels ON THE COACH. That way all the rotating masses are in balance, not just tire and wheel. They can also check for RUN-OUT, as a perfectly balanced "egg shaped" tire will still give a poor ride.

Actually, in writing Caterpillar recommends installing oil filters DRY, as pouring oil directly in to the filter means it is never filtered before going into the engine. And, any petroleum engineer will tell you that fresh oil out of the can should be run through the filter BEFORE circulating through the engine. If you "have to" fill, fill only the small outer holes (at least on Cat and Cummins engines-- have not worked on newer MB engines) which are the inlets, not the center hole which is the outlet. The oil film on the lubricated surfaces is what protects moving parts on start up, not the "instant" oil flow. And, you are talking about SECONDS for the filter to fill and oil pressure to build. But, do what you are comfortable with.

From an article I wrote for the FMCA Magazine many years ago: CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK We continue to see questions about oil "consumption" and oil on radiators and toads on the FMCA Forum and other RV websites. It seems to be universal across all brands of diesel engines. THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE IS AN OVERFILLED CRANKCASE. CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK TO ENSURE THE CORRECT OIL LEVEL IN THE PAN "FIXES" OVER 90% OF THESE PROBLEMS. If you "think" your engine has an oil consumption problem, you are seeing oil mist on your toad or you just want to verify that yours is correct; you need to verify that you are using the correct amount of oil. Note: the quantities listed INCLUDE the oil filter and is the total amount of oil you put in when changing oil and filter. Now, CALIBRATE THE DIP STICK. Since the same engines/dip sticks are used in many different applications with different angles of installation, do not ASSUME that the dip stick is correctly marked. Calibration costs $0. At the next oil change, drain oil, remove old filter (as usual). Then install the drain plug and new oil filter and add the engine's correct oil capacity LESS THE NUMBER OF QUARTS you want between the "ADD" and "FULL" marks (let's say 2 quarts). So for an engine with 20 quart capacity you would add 18 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes, shut off and wait until oil has descended into the pan (at least 30 minutes and an hour is safer). Pull the dip stick and use a file or dremel tool to mark the oil level "ADD". Add the remaining two quarts, let the oil settle in the pan, pull the dipstick and mark this the "FULL" mark. In many/most cases, you will find that your engine "throws out" the access oil and then "consumption" settles down to next to nothing. Put in the correct amount and your "consumption" issues may go away. This applies to all ages (including brand new) of motorhomes and boats with every brand of engine. Also, when checking the oil level with the dipstick it is safest to do it in the morning after the oil has had all night to flow back to the pan. Do not add oil until the level reaches the ADD mark. Finally, make a sticker to affix near oil fill: OIL CAPACITY INCLUDING FILTER: xx QUARTS.

Here is a link to the very active Roadtrek FMCA Chapter: http://www.roadtrekchapter.org

Actually there is a very active Roadtrek group here in FMCA-- many of them park together at FMCA Conventions.