wildebill308

A little research confirmed my suspicions. Acceptable tongue weight for any trailer is somewhere between 9 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight (GTW). Therefore, if you are towing a 5000 lbs trailer, the tongue weight should be measured at approximately 500 lbs. So 3000 lbs would be grossly overweight. Bill

Well the first question is do you have emission tests where you live? Bill

That sounds like excessive tongue weight to me. Bill

Why just 10-12 days and why just Superior? Bill

There are isolated areas nearly everywhere you go. If you start worrying about isolated areas you may as well stay home. There is no guarantee you are safe doing that. I think this is shocking more because it is such a rare thing. Bill

Nice coach, welcome to the forum. Bill

Congratulations on starting your adventure. As you have the weights and the charts you are good to go. I recommend a cushion over what the chart says. Something like 10% or I just use 10 lbs as it is easier. Remember the pressure in the chart is the MINIMUM to carry the weight safely. Bill

Ray, wait till we get to the good stuff. I was certified on sealing aircraft / fuel tanks and the most important thing is prep. Bill

I saw this one on You Tube. It looks like a good start. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0FKr1MAGfE Bill

There is some camping on the beach just north of Padre Island National Seashore. That sure wouldn't be where I would expect trouble as you are a long way from crossing the border. I heard from some people who left The Las Palomas Wildlife Management Area - Boca Chica Unit Brownsville because people were just walking across the river on the beach. Didn't hear of any problems but they didn't like the traffic going by their spot. Bill

Have they talked to Hershey PA?

Mine to. Bill

This is my go to RTV silicone based adhesive sealant, yes it is more expensive than the Home Depot stuff 3oz for $41.85. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/dowCorningRTV3145.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwr-_tBRCMARIsAN413WRKuDhNTc5_IFssQSN1ORWIRqjKWPFfCDyfU6KXK0CDo5RMhWkTcZEaAs_-EALw_wcB Might as well add my favorit epoxy to the list. 3M Scotch-Weld Epoxy Adhesive 1751, Gray, Part B/A, 2 fl oz Kit $54.70. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3M™+Scotch-Weld™+Epoxy+Adhesive+1751&ref=nb_sb_noss I have used both extensively working on little airplane projects. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Yes Summit is a good source for parts. Lots of people overlook them. They opened a store in Arlington texas about the size of a big Walmart. Another place to look is Jegs. https://www.jegs.com/ Bill

Except for the problem of are you going to watch it all the time? Can you shut off power before any damage occurs? My surge guard monitors all the time and will shut off power before damage can occur. That includes when you are sleeping. The power in the park can and will varey radicley based on the load. Bill

I understand and appreciate all the benefits of the Li batteries but I can't justify the cost. I have dry camped 2 nights in the last 7 years. I can get buy just fine on lead acid. But wait there is a new battery on the horizon that is promising to be better and cheaper than Li it uses a aluminum technology. There are 2 different yet similar roads. Aluminum /organic. https://www.designnews.com/materials-assembly/new-aluminum-battery-design-could-be-more-sustainable-lithium-ion/4553949261660 Then the aluminum ion battery. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6504778/ Bill

Congratulations on getting started. I have found that low voltage is just as harmful as over voltage and probbabley more common. I use a Surge Guard 34850 Portable Model. One reason I like the portable unit is I can check a site before moving the RV. My unit has saved me several times from bad power and low low voltage. https://www.amazon.com/Surge-Guard-34850-Portable-Display/dp/B00T36QHUO Bill

This isn't rocket science. If you are concerned with dual spacing, go take a picture of the spacing. You could actually measure it. All the modern dual setups I have seen have plenty of spacing. A 0.4" change is so minor as to be not a issue. I doubt the average mechanic could repeat the same measurement with a +/- 0.4 accuracy. Bill

You just need to use the right RTV Silicone sealant/adhesive. Do your prep right and it will outlast the RV. Bill

more fixes happen with more information. Like Brett said twice. Bill

That is pretty close. The other consideration is to get the proper load range. What coach do you have? See it would be easier if that info was in your signature. Bill

Yes, too true. Now that I know to look at the overhang when I see a A or C coach it sometimes amazes me how much rear overhang some have. Some look like if you jumped up and down on the rear bumper you might lift the front wheels off the ground. Not picking on the gas coach crowd but it is something to be aware of when shopping. There are some out there that are nearly at their GVWR. Bill

Quick search showed on the cutaways, Cab Rear to Rear Axle (in.) max 118" Rear Axle to End of Frame (in.) max 68.5". Pretty much anything over the shortest has been stretched. The max wheelbase is 176" This is what drives the problem because it is as long of a driveline as they build. If you want a longer RV you have to add to the rear overhang. Bill

Good to see you are still around. Bill

Welcome to the forum. If you put your coach in your signature it will help you get better/quicker answers in the future. See my signature to give you an idea of what I mean. Bill