wildebill308

Let me try to answer the generator oil question. This is from the Onan RV Generator Handbook. “Gasoline Engine Oil Quality – Use oil meeting any of the following API Performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality available. Look for the “Energy Conserving” designation to optimize fuel economy.” NOTE: Multi-grade oils (such as SAE 15W-40) are recommended for year-round use in Cummins Onan. I highly recommend Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. You can use what ever viscosity you feel would be best for your application. I would use the 10-40 high mileage. It was developed for cars that have longer oil change intervals but can be changed to meet Onans recommendations and provide better protection. Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of: ACEA A3/B3 API SN, SM, SL Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 is of the following quality level: API CF As you can see it meets or exceeds the requirements of the Onan Handbook. Also to make the OP even more confused about oil. Basically all oil is compatible. Using/adding different weight and grade or viscosity will affect the end quality for a given application. On the other hand if they weren't compatible how could they make a synthetic blend like you are running now. Bill

If he is a member he should call them as soon as posible. It is important to talk to them before you do anything and get aproval. Bill

jleamont is right on the money but I want to add my two cents. I would use Mobil 1 5-20 in the main engin and 10-30 in the generator. There is no problem switching between regular and synthetic. You can also add regular oil to the synthetic if you needed to or vise versa. For grease, guess what, Mobil 1 HP chassis grease is Certified to the NLGI GC-LB specifications for both chassis and wheel bearing lubrication. I just bought a couple of tubes as I am doing my annual maintenance. Bill

Just curious, what about the ice maker in the frige? So far my icemaker keeps ahead of my needs. Bill

You might find this video useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=io9POOkjOcA Bill

The absolute truth is there is no standard as to where anything is located or routed. I was tasked this last fall to go get a friends coach ready for the road. There had been a medical emergency and I was asked to get it secured so FMCA Assist could pick it up. The outside was pretty easy but I had never been in this coach and finding all the switches was a challenge. Bill

Way to much. Just run the genarater. Bill

I think it is what Tireman9 said. It looks like a production blemish that may make the tires un-serviceable at about 8 years of age. Bill

I have seen that FMCAssist Plan works and well. I can was at a rally last fall in Rockport Texas when one of the attendees fell ill and the local hospital had him med evacuated to San Antonio. FMCAssist was contacted and they picked up his car and motorhome and re located them to a RV park in the San Antonio area (they full time). As far as I could tell it went quite smoothly. Bill

I bought my 2 start batteries at my local Freightliner store. $179.00 dollar batteries for $69.00 each. I was so happy when I saw the sale I forgot what else I was going to get. Bill

Clark, welcome to the forum. I think your best bet on geting info on your bus would be to PM huskycamp, read his post above. Bill

Bounder made some mid entry diesel pushers, I think it was the Z model as in 39Z. http://www.bounderrvsource.com/rvinventory_item.asp?id=2271838 There are outher makers who do a side entry: 33' 2011 Serrano Maxxforce w/2 Slides http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/diesel/2011-Serrano-31212.htm and there is this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTs2S7RTuGQ Bill

I was getting concerned about the grease too. I had not looked at or re-packed the front hubs since I got the coach. Although the miles are much less than in the trucking world, I do like to keep up on maintenance. That is why I was looking at going to the oil hubs. I think the oil hubs are a better system. I was just thinking I do have a small vacuum pump for pulling oil samples. If I can find a container that will screw on I can use it. The tubing is only ¼ so it may fit in to the hub with out disassembly. Bill

Ok My goal is to get this topic back on track. I had always thought my hubs were the grease packed type. Therefore I had not re packed them and haven't pulled the front wheel covers off. Well what do you know I have oil bath hubs. Yesterday I drained the oil (they have the drain ports) and re filled with Royal Purple gear oil. There are a couple of things I noticed: One is the drain plugs have magnets built in, so check for excessive metal shavings. It would be extremely easy to under fill the hub. When you add the new oil it takes a long time to flow back in the hub. It will look full but 5-10 minuets later it is below the line. I was doing a couple other things like changing the oil on the generator so I kept checking the oil level and re filling. I can see how easy it would be to not get enough oil in the hubs. Say at a shop where they were in a hurry to get you out. Well I am glad I pulled the wheel covers off to measure the bolt pattern as I was planning to convert to the oil bath style. I don't know how much the hubs are suppose to hold or that I got all the old oil out (I didn't have anything to suck it out) I may do a repeat after a trip to Fredericksburg next month. Bill

Herman I was hoping for Christmas cards. Bill

Welcome to the forum. Like Herman said we need more info. If you add it to your signature (see my sig) you don't have to add it everytime you have a question and it will help to get better answers. Bill

I self insure. There is a reason they all want to sell you an add on insurance policy, they make money doing it. Bill

One other thing is when you hit a hill and start slowing down, manually down shift in to 5 or 4th. Keep your rpm up around 2000 rpm this will help keep it cooler. Let us know what you find out on the CAC. Bill

That soundes like a place to put on the list for next year. We are going West this year. Bill

I leave it on. Hear is the big BUT if I am leaving the coach and don't have it pluged in I turn it off. Bill

Where are you headed on the first trip of 2016? Bill

Don, only one problem I am never on the road at 2AM. Bill

In that case I think he needs a better lock on the door. Bill

Just a thought could you use one of those clear connectors? I have seen them with a 45 degree and one with just a slight dog leg. This would give you a clear place to watch when you dump and line you up with the hole and less work. OK I went back and looked at the pictures closer and that won't work. So patching looks like a good option. One suggestion is to make your repair big enough you can cut the hole for the "dec plate" without getting into the repair of the old hole. Easier to do than explain. Bill

The poster has posted on several old threads. Just trying to let them know. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Bill