kaypsmith

So far I've only seen one that was wider than 24", it was factory ordered handicap equipped. Not saying that there are not others, only I have not came across any others yet. Well there is an RV show this weekend here, I'll take my ruler just in case.

From what I read, regional tires are designed for short distance delivery, not long distance trucking, hence they are not rated at the higher speeds encountered while driving on long distance hauls.

Mesquite TREES? I drove all the way across Texas and still looked for them. Of course I go to florida and look at their RIVERS, our creeks in Alabama are larger than those rivers. And of course there is the mighty Rio Grande in place to keep those Mexicans out of Texas.

Or just add a nice set of driving led 10/30 volt to the front end for those places that really need more light, usually easy to conceal in order to not take away from the antiquity of the coach. These type work great on any voltage from 10 to 30 volts, if interested, I have a source.

Correct only if you verify 10/30 volt operation. They are available in both 12 volt and 10/30.

Richard, here is what MCI uses, which is what is used on my bus. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vanner-High-Efficiency-80-Amp-Battery-Equalizer-65-80-/292359153516?hash=item4411f6a76c All you need to do is install this unit in your coach, hardwire the headlight circuit to the first battery for 12 volts. The equalizer in turn monitors both batteries to keep the two charging and discharging at equal rates to make sure that both batteries are working correctly. Wiring is very simple I can copy and send you the schematic from my coach manual. The headlights and ecm are the only two devices that use 12 volt on my 24 volt system, but I also charge my house 12 volt house system with this device while traveling.

That's a good looking rig. here is what I use to use two different hitches at one time. The one shown is about a 5" spacing and works great but I also have another that I cut the two bars that space the two receivers and put a 12" extender there, this is very handy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Dual-Hitch-Bicycle-Rack-2-Receiver-Extender-Trailer-Boat-Extension-Black/391952409899?epid=8017023527&hash=item5b422f252b:g:swkAAOSwiqFaXmov:rk:44:pf:0

Carl, I carry a jack that looks like a floor jack but it has a low profile air over hydraulic bottle jack built in that actually raises the coach, it does require that the air bags are at ride level to be able to get under the bus. I have also a regular size 20 ton bottle jack as well as a 20 ton air operated bottle jack. I also carry an eight gage 2' X 2' steel plate just in case of soft ground. I will call RA since I have RA coverage but I like being prepared.

I'm 74 and changed one last weekend, I have a tire roller, not hydraulic has 4 castors and is indented the shape of the tire, just place the t+r on the device and raise or the jacks under the bus till the tire rolls right into place.

It looks as though that Richard has the right idea, looks a lot like exhaust may have been a factor.

I recommend taking the good plate to a vinyl graphics shop, have them make a photo and save that into a file. Almost all of these type shops can take that photo and reproduce in vinyl an exact duplicate that has backing that you simply peel off and apply that graphic to any place that you desire that is smooth enough. If you need to remove the decal for any reason, just heat it slightly with a hair dryer and peel it off. Most of these graphics are good for about ten years as long as you keep your coach including the graphic appropriately clean.

Last September, I came back from Pigeon Forge Tn., thirty miles from home there was a blowout on inside dual drive tire, I had a spare tire, not wheel with me, I called for roadside assistance and had them replace the tire. I drove home (30 miles), then had the other tire of that same dual set replaced. I moved to a local campground for a month, (15 miles away) from home. While there I noticed that the tag axel tire directly behind the new set of duals had leaked and was low. I then put a new tire on that spot, looking for what caused the leak on the leaky tire, I found a small thread of the steel belt from the blown tire had entered the tag tire. Yes anything goes with tires.

On a fiberglass coach, I would recommend using rivets for several reasons. #1 is the fact that the compression of a pop rivet probably cause a splintering effect of the fiberglass #2 is the weeping effect of a pop rivet, when the stem is pulled backward there is only compression and no sealant to keep the water out of the walls. If you are going to add something to a wall, you will need to make sure that that area is adequately backed to support the weight of the item that you are adding, there are locations that are designed to support add ons, such as the awning but you should make sure that those are in place in your coach, and if using those places I recommend a sealant be used along with the attaching screws. Somethings added on such as placards or light weight items can easily be added with a good adhesive rather than puncturing the fiberglass skin.

bigpapaporshe, as Carl said welcome to the forum! I also sometimes overlook the jist of a question when it is part of the subject line, please forgive Carl for jumping the gun. For that matter we all certainly make mistakes. As for your question about whether to or not to carry a spare tire is certainly personal choice, as for me, I will not knowingly leave home without a spare tire, although my coach tire is quiet a bit heavier than yours, and just guessing, mine weighs in excess of 250#. Very rare to have a flat but I would rather be prepared than to wind up paying $900.00 for a tire that I can buy at my home base for $450.00.

Reminds me, I drove a DrPepper sales/delivery truck in the early 1970's, a country route, I was returning from my last stop with a nearly empty load of pop, and a nearly full load of empty bottles, an open bay truck. I was traveling about 55 mph at the time, I saw something whizzing by on the right side of the truck, about a half mile later I saw a tire on rim on the side of the road, I stopped to check it out, a quick glance at the right rear dual wheels, the outer wheel was missing, quess who the tire/rim belonged to. Good thing empty bottles don't weigh too heavy.

Joe, this one came with a 4 ah battery, extra is $50.00, and there is a 6 ah for $80.00.

Great question Joe, I changed the tag wheel today, and did not think to check clearance on the drive axel, so I just went out to the coach in the dark with flashlight in hand. Yes it is just small enough to fit all the way down to the lug nuts on my 12/22.5 with stainless wheel covers, and the stainless hub cover both in place without an extension. I will try to take a picture and post it tomorrow while there is daylight to snap a good picture. There is not a great deal of extra room but sufficient to achieve the intended goal on my size tire, probably not on 16, or 19.5 but the torque is not that great on those sizes, so an extension will be no problem on those.

There it is: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-volt-Max-1-2-in-Drive-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-1-Battery-Included/1000604927

I chose tires for discussion instead of general because I think it is better suited here. I have been pondering a new impact tool for changing coach tires in case of an emergency. I have all sizes from 1/4 to full 1 inch in pneumatic, but sometimes when on the road air is not readily accessible except coach air, and that sometimes does not work like I would like for it to. A friend suggested a Kobalt brand 1/2 inch 24 volt from Lowes, I just snarled a little and said that would not work. He replied that his neighbor has one and uses it to change dump truck tires all the time. This morning I paid Lowes a visit and found one, but before buying it, I verified that I could return it if it was not adequate for my job. I took it home and proceeded to just remove a lug nut and to my surprise it worked. The battery was too weak to pull any others so I put it on charge for 2 hours and it was fully charged when I returned. I pulled the last nine nuts, removed the tire and replaced it plus all 10 nuts. I pulled out the torque wrench with cheater bar and determined that all nuts were properly torqued and found they need no more tightening. Just thought I would share in case others were interested.

Since it is coming from the middle, my first thought as Herman said, the linkage on the ride height valve may be binding or possibly broken. If it is broken, the front is probably riding much too high. The popping sound at the bottom sounds as though the chassis has bottomed out.

According to the add, those prices are inclusive of everything needed to install on both the coach and toad except for installation on both. I thought for a long time about designing something similar but now I no longer need to, LOL. According to the youtube video that I watched, the distributed weight of a 4000# Cadillac SRX on the coach is about 1600# due to the weight shift by raising the front end, their claim not mine. It sure looks like a neat idea to me. I would love to see one in person.

I have not experienced that problem, but more info on your coach will be helpful for getting some more educated guess's about solving your problem. I would suggest adding this info to your signature to avoid the need to add it each time you have other problems with your coach. Hope you can get good answers and can resolve the problem soon.

I wondered also about that statement, my bus had an almost new set on it when I acquired the coach. They were installed by Vermont Carriers, I found the papers with other valuable info about the bus just after acquiring it. I began watching for Hankook tires on other busses at that time and found nearly half of other commercial carriers including Greyhound on their coaches. I continued using them after my conversion was finished until they were 10 years old with no apparent cracking, I only made very short trips at the time with the old MH still operational. Of course I replaced them once I started making long trips, but still have one in the spare tire compartment, just in case, still no apparent cracks. I would not run more than 7 years normally, but as stated, these were short trips very close to home. Maybe it is the suspension on the bus, but they didn't appear to have a hard ride on this coach.

Gladys Knight is a class act, but I am always reminded when seeing or hearing of her an age old joke about her. Gladys was to appear at a night club one night, when she appeared at the club there was only one entrance, the doorman asked to see her ticket, she replied, young man, I'm Gladys Knight, he gazed at her and replied, I'm glad it's night also, where is YOUR ticket!

80,000 miles on a set of tires kindly speaks for itself. I run Goodyear Wranglers on my jeep wrangler and had 0 issues. I did replace an older set prematurely because the previous owner used a very oversized tire making the Jeep hard to get in and out of, plus very stiff ride. I went back to door placard size and have been happier with this arrangement. Welcome to the forum! By the way, I am using the semi aggressive tread design.