bikeryder

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About bikeryder

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern California
  • Interests
    Cycling, Camping, Traveling in my Monaco Cayman.

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  1. Success... Bottom 3/16” metal plate stair tread installed. Dimensions of required individual Corian pieces taken and recorded. Now it’s time to pay a visit to the kitchen contractor who will supply the custom cut Corian product. This phase may take awhile. More later... Eddie
  2. Returned from the hardware store with goodies in hand. I’ve sealed some previously drilled holes [and one breached small crack that I carelessly caused with a screwdriver removing that original dry rotted 3/4” plywood stair tread] on existing bottom galvanized stairwell plate with silicone. New 3/16” metal plate scrubbed, washed and rinsed clean, both sides. Fully primed [2 coats] and painted, both sides. Waiting for paint to dry in the warm California sun. I will also install mounting tape to hopefully eliminate any and all potential rattling, as well as seal each newly drilled anchoring screw hole [pics uploaded]. This is turning out to be a very enjoyable and rewarding project. I only wish I had decided to tackle this stairwell entry upgrade a year ago. Oh well. More later... Eddie
  3. Will definitely do that Bill. Thank you sir. Eddie
  4. jleamont, thank you kindly. I always say; “If you don’t have time to do the repair right, just don’t do it, get a professional”. Which is why I’m going to have the folks at Source Engineering install their precise engineered suspension system on my Cayman, as that installation is way over my pay grade. Eddie
  5. Manholt, thanks for the tip on having the coach weighed corner to corner. I will definitely do that. My concern was adding something solid that wouldn’t flex when stood on, and at same time not succumb to the elements such as moisture. I’d hate to end up with wood rot on bottom inside stair tread [with Corian slab glued to it] if I were to choose wood over steel. The added weight of this steel plate was and remains a genuine concern of mine. Which is why I’m performing this stairwell entry upgrade prior to my driving to Source Engineering in Eugene Oregon, to have my original factory suspension upgraded to their custom fine tuned 4 bag with ping tank. Hopefully those good folks will do all that is required to make my Cayman handle on the highways as it should. More later... Eddie
  6. 3/16” thick metal plate now fully deburred of sharp edges, drilled and countersunk, awaiting wiping down oil preservative, primer and paint, then the long awaited permanent stairwell install. WooHoo! 🎉
  7. First thing this morning I ventured to a local metal yard and found a remnant of 3/16” metal plate for my bottom step just inside the entry door to my Cayman coach. I had it sheared to size; 11 1/2”x28”. Next up is to have countersunk holes drilled into this metal plate to secure it permanently in place. A few days ago I obtained some nice pieces of 3/4” red oak planks for the facing of my sliding cover. I had those cut down to size and had countersunk holes drilled. Lots of busy small detail work left prior to taking final measurements for the Corian pieces [pics attached]. Eddie
  8. Herman, I did indeed. This morning I cannot determine if my left thumb is more purple or green in color due to being the receipient of some of that therapy session . . .
  9. I truly am enjoying working on this stairwell entry upgrade project. Over the weekend I decided to literally rip out the bottom stair tread as it was not only flexing a little when weight was applied from standing, the 3/4” plywood appeared to be slightly dry rotted. Oh man was that bottom tread ever glued down with heavy industrial strength black double sided tape. By the time I had completed the tread removal process, all that remained were shredded fragments of what once was a 3/4” piece of plywood. My left thumb is sore from being beating more than a few times. I have a couple of small areas of plywood yet to remove due to darkness. More fun for next weekend. I plan on installing a 3/16” thick steel plate sheared to size [11 1/2”x28”] on bottom tread prior to installing the 1/2” thick Corian directly on top on new metal plate. The top of new lower Corian tread should just about be the same height of the 3/4” plywood tread that I ripped out. Pics uploaded.
  10. First off, I very much appreciate all the feedback. 1. As to the 3/4” plywood pulling away from the subfloor [staples at top showing], I thought the exact same thing at first. Then I noticed the bottom side of metal rolling mechanism is resting firmly against the metal galvanized bottom plate of the recessed pocket area. BTW the 3/4” piece of vertical plywood [that rolling mechanism is attached] sadly was not cut straight [shoddy craftsmanship]. Since all the weight is transferred directly to that galvanized metal plate I feel a little more comfortable. Those [3] screws at rear area are hard to see. I’ve cropped that original picture to better reveal screws in question [pic attached]. 2. After spending several hours monkeying around, unsuccessfully trying to get those [3] anchoring screws to cooperate and loosen, I decided to try another approach. The current thickness of plywood on the stairwell walls are 3/8”. I took a trip to Home Depot and purchased a 2’x4’ piece of 1/8” thick birch plywood to use in place of the existing 3/8” thick plywood. I believe this will solve my clearance problem between outside edge of sliding metal arms of rolling mechanism, and face of stairwell wall plywood. The clearance now varies between 3/8” to 7/16”. I’ve learned that 1/4” thickness Corian material is available to use as wall material. Providing the thickness of adhesive material is [hopefully] not more than 1/16”, I believe clearance problem is now solved. I’ve uploaded a few pics, but unfortunately it was too dark to take pics of newly installed 1/8” thick birch plywood on stairwell wall. I’ll take those tomorrow. Eddie
  11. Well, I’ve run into a bit of a snag. Now that I’m at the stage of making detailed measurements of the individual pieces of Corian, I’ve come across something that is an easy fix if only I could access [3] anchoring screws located at the very back end of cavity that receives stairwell cover when in closed position. When standing outside the coach facing stairwell, the left side has virtually 3/16” gap between the metal roller and fixed plywood on left side stairwell wall [not good]. The right side stairwell wall has 3/4” gap [much better]. Pics attached. All need do to correct this situation is remove the left side metal roller assembly, and install an additional 3/4” thick piece of plywood to provide proper clearance at stairwell wall. So my challenge is figuring out a way to unscrew the [3] anchoring screws at the back. The vertical clearance of this pocket is only 4”, and screws are located approximately 32” back from the front. The screws are not only screwed into the 3/4” plywood, they also go into the metal sheathing behind the plywood making removal more of a challenge being my arms cannot reach that far into this small recess area. I’m wondering if using extensions with a knuckle joint would do the trick. I already have a knuckle joint, I just now need to gather some extensions from friends to get the length needed to reach to the back area. Once removed I’m confident I can reinstall with little problem if any. Eddie
  12. Just today I located a local Corian fabricator / installer who has a solid 5 star rating on Yelp, and is willing to provide the cut to size pieces of Corian required to complete my stairwell upgrade. So this weekend I will be very busy taking accurate detailed measurements of each piece of Corian required. After I submit all sizing, I will then be given pricing. So, nothing more to add until then . . . As to running wiring for illuminating my stairwell, I'm assuming I can access the 12 volt wiring right at the porch light switch - located just above water bottle resting sideways in cup holder [see pic]. I am wondering if I remove trim cover plate at toggle porch light switch, I could run a thin coat hanger wire down inside the wall and then drill a very small hole near the floor to pull wires through, These would be directly behind the passenger drink holder [meaning I will need to temporaily remove this drink holder also]. Then I was pondering to perhaps have a small groove routed into underside of top Corian trim piece [U-Shaped] running round floor perimiter. Wires could be consealed into this groove. Then all I need do is determine the best location to place lighting fixtures. Does this sound like the correct approach for low voltage wiring? Eddie
  13. Wow, what a wealth of knowledge you’ve all freely shared on this topic. FMCA members and this forum are a true blessing for newbies like myself [not sure if obtaining my first RV 2 1/2 years ago is still considered a newbie ?]. Getting back to obtaining materials for my stairwell entry. I think I’m going to begin searching out custom cabinet makers who install Corian counter tops, as I do not have any tooling for cutting or routing rounded corners. I want to perform the install myself after material has been obtained and cut to the various required sizes and shapes. BTW, 2 1/2 years ago after I had just purchased my 2003 Monaco Cayman, I stumbled upon the FMCA website. Then doing a quick search under Monaco Cayman I noticed a very concerning posting under faulty rear trailing arms. With printed copies in hand I went back to the dealership where I purchased my RV, and to my great surprise the dealership replaced these questionable rear trailing arms [at no cost to me] with the heavy duty replacement trailing arms manufacturered from Source Engineering. I wasn’t expecting such wonderful customer service considering I just purchased a used RV. FMCA really saved me [and others around me] from potential disaster out their on America’s highways. So I immediately became an FMCA member. Eddie
  14. kaypsmith, thanks so much for your very detailed explanation of the Corian material. I’m assuming by the “lack of any caution” in your response, this Corian material will not be too heavy for installation in a stairwell & should hold up well with vehicle sways and jolts as traveling down the road. With the type and branding of raw materials now known, I can focus on coloring etc. Thank you to all who have responded and taken an interest in my stairwell entry upgrade. Eddie 👍
  15. I almost forgot to mention my progress. The good news; I was successful in removing the sliding stairwell cover. After gaining access I easily determined what had gone wrong the the sliding track mechanism. A few screws had worked their out and as a result the sliding cover had a mind of its own, getting stuck or not opening at all. After obtaining slightly larger screws, all is now secure. The remaining side panel of carpet has now been removed. I’m at the point now where until I decide on what material to install I can go no farther... Updated pics uploaded... Eddie