richard5933

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About richard5933

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Beautiful Southern Wisconsin
  • I travel
    Part-time

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  1. House RV Plug-- 30 Amp

    Sounds like this is working for you, but I'd suggest that it would be better to run the 30-amp service for the RV outlet from a dedicated 30-amp breaker in your load center. Piggy backing on another circuit, especially tapping 120v from a 240v circuit like this, just leaves too many possibilities for future problems and safety hazards. I'm no electrician, but I'd place money on it being a violation of the code in your area as well. If it's not possible to run new wiring for the RV outlet all the way to the main load center, then perhaps you can put a small sub-panel where the dryer outlet is currently located and then use that to power both the new RV outlet and the dryer outlet. You're trying to use the dryer outlet as a sub-panel, but it's not designed for this and doesn't give you the ability to place a breaker for the RV outlet. Using a sub-panel instead of piggy-backing would give each its own breaker. You could likely still use the wiring that previously serviced the dryer outlet to power the sub-panel, but you'd have to first check to see the rating/size of the wire. Sorry to rain on your parade.
  2. Frozen LP Tank Leaking??

    Update: The tanks have been repaired/updated/refilled/re-installed. I performed the usual leak test with copious amounts of soapy water. The propane dealer installed new fill valves, POL (output) valves, relief valves, and did a re-certification on both tanks. I installed a new 2-stage regulator using new rubber hoses I had made at a local shop. A bit of information about this that I picked up in the process follows. It should be applicable throughout the US if the propane dealer's information is correct. Can't speak to any specific state requirements outside of Wisconsin though. There are two types of propane tanks in use on RVs. There are the DOT tanks and the ASME tanks. If a tank is permanently mounted in a horizontal position AND is an ASME tank, then it does not require re-certification. DOT tanks and anything not permanently mounted horizontally needs to be re-certified after the first 12 years and then every five years after that. The relief valves are good for ten years and should be replaced after that. I'm told that only tanks require certification, not hoses or accessories. Our tanks are over 40 years old. As far as we can tell, they have never been re-certified or worked on in any way. Doesn't even look like they were ever filled once leaving Custom Coach in 1974. Since our tanks are DOT tanks, they required re-certification. Other than the valve replacements, the tanks are in good shape and just have some typical surface scratches/rust. I don't anticipate having problems getting them filled in the future, as the dealer put the re-certification tags in a place which is easy to see. Each of our tanks holds 33 pounds of LP (just over 7 gallons liquid) and weighs in at over 70 pounds each when full including the weight of the tank. Not the lightest things around, but still manageable by one person. Cost of all we had done was as follows: Refilling: $50 Valve replacements and installation: $120 Taxes & Hazmat fee: $10 Regulator/hoses: $60 Total: $240 This was an unexpected expense, but in the scope of things it really wasn't too bad. In the end we have two safe tanks installed and filled. They will hopefully serve us well until the next re-certification in 5 years.
  3. Diesel Block Heater

    If you're talking about where is the outlet for you to plug in the block heater, then the answer is that it's different on almost every make/model. Some don't have an outlet at all. We have to run an extension cord right now to plug in the heater. Installing an outlet in the engine bay is on my list for this spring.
  4. HEEELLLPP! Tire overload!

    I think that you meant this as a different kind of tire overload, but that may actually be the best place to start the conversation. Especially if you are trying to decide between 16 and 18 ply (or load rating for the tires in general), I would say that getting a current weight on the coach is the place to start. Until you know the actual weight front & rear it will be very difficult to properly choose the load rating needed. If you get a tire with too high a load rating you're wasting money and getting a harsher ride than necessary. If you get too low a load rating then you put safety at risk. Once you know the load rating required, you can start comparing apples to apples from brand to brand. The only other piece of advice would be to find a good tire dealer near you that is not owned or associated with just one brand. Provide them with the information you have and ask for help selecting tires. You might spend a few dollars more in the end, but I've found that most dealers will work with you on price within reason. Best part of this is to establish a relationship with a shop that can help you when the inevitable problem arises down the road. There is nothing that can beat having a locally owned shop on your side when you need them.
  5. Oil Additives For Cat 3126E??

    If only two of the injectors had build up on them, would it be appropriate to check to see if everything is okay in those cylinders? Logically speaking, if this was caused due to a lack of something in the fuel (additives, etc) then wouldn't the build up be present on all the injectors and not just two?
  6. CG Recommendation: Kansas City Area

    Not quite in Kansas City, but there is a nice state park in Lawrence KS with hookups.
  7. Frozen LP Tank Leaking??

    Is this a state-by-state rule regarding tagging of hoses? I had the new hoses made today, and the guy said that there is no requirement to tag hoses. He seemed to imply that doing so was not possible, and that only the tank would need certification. I've got the new hoses and a new 2-stage regulator all ready to mount. Tomorrow I'll be picking up the tanks, but of course the temps are forecast to be in the teens until the end of next week. Might be a few days until I actually get these things installed and leak tested.
  8. Frozen LP Tank Leaking??

    I appreciate the suggestions on various ways to fill the tanks or use portable tanks, but the reality is that the only thing using the propane in the coach is the furnace. I suspect that the two tanks combined will take us longer than we'll be staying in one place and our plan right now is to just fill the LP tanks as needed when we stop for diesel or to dump our black tank. I'm not looking forward to reinstalling the tanks once they are serviced and filled. Can't imagine that I'd want to make this a regular habit. Even if they did remove easily, and even if they weren't so darned heavy, we don't travel with a towed vehicle so it wouldn't do us any good. Before anyone questions why we travel without a towed vehicle, the answer is simple. We don't need one. The coach doesn't have slides or leveling jacks. On the occasion that we have to pull up anchor and run to town it really doesn't take all that long to get things going. And if we really don't feel like moving the coach, we just call an Uber or taxi.
  9. Frozen LP Tank Leaking??

    You'd have to provide me with your definition of 'permanently installed' before I can really say. They were bolted in place and certainly not designed to be removed for filling. They have separate ports or filling and for the hose connection, and they appear to have never been removed since being installed. The hoses are not attached with quick-release, and the bolts were proper nut & bolt (not wing nuts). To me, they were certainly 'permanently installed' and mounted horizontal. If so, where do you see something that indicates certification being required? I will double check with the propane dealer when I pick up the tanks in a few days.
  10. Windows Rattle

    You can also try here: https://www.steelerubber.com/rv
  11. Frozen LP Tank Leaking??

    Brief update... I got the two tanks taken to the propane dealer today. The tech said that they are in need of updating to comply with current DOT regs (and of course repair to the leaky valve). They are still in good condition overall and will not take too much to get up to snuff so that they are safe to continue using. After the repair/upgrades they'll fill them so I can just reinstall and be done. Sounded like I'd end up with a re-cert, even though technically speaking horizontal tanks don't require such if permanently mounting according to the info I found. Interesting mounting method used on these tanks. They each have a metal ring on the 'bottom' of the tank (as seen if stood up vertically). The compartment which holds these two tanks horizontally has cradles in it. The tanks slide into the compartment lengthwise resting in these cradles. At the back of each cradle is a round wooden disc sized perfectly to mate with the bottom of the metal base on the tanks. When they are slide in, only one bolt is necessary at the front to secure them in place. I love it when simple solutions like this work so well. I'll try and remember to take a couple of photos when I remount the tanks. Regarding the hoses/regulator... The propane dealer directed me to another shop in town that does LP equipment, hoses, etc. I'm going over there on Thursday to have two new hoses made up to the correct length to replace the current rubber hose and the hard copper tube. I'll also upgrade to a new 2-stage regulator. After all this things should be good to go. Sure is nice to have local shops that can get this stuff taken care of. Milwaukee was once called "The Machine Shop to the World." Good thing enough of the old places are still around that it's quite easy to find places to work on things here.
  12. 24" Wiper Blades

    Not sure how this works on a more modern coach than we have, but on ours it's really important to get the proper 'heavy duty' blades and/or refills if you want them to last more than a few months. There are regular duty blades out there that will fit your 24" wipers, but it's my experience that the regular duty blades just don't hold up to sun and wear. Wipers are not that expensive, even for the heavy duty varieties. That being so, I try to opt for the option that is least likely to fail.
  13. "FRED's (Front Engine Diesels)

    According to the article cited, there is nothing about ceasing production of Diesel engines. It says only that the vehicle will be offered with gasoline engines in the US for the first time. Is there talk elsewhere of actually ceasing the Diesel offering? Or, are thy talking about adding an engine to the lineup and offering a choice?
  14. Diesel Fuel For COLD Conditions

    In my experience, yes. When my step van had the fuel gel on the way to work I had to have it towed to a shop. They left in inside for a few hours and then were able to start it like normal. Then they could add the anti-gel additive and get it worked through the system. I could have tried blowing a torpedo heater at it, but it was just too cold to even bother that day. The joy of life in the north!
  15. Frozen LP Tank Leaking??

    Thanks everyone for the information. I agree with Herman - the fill valve on the one tank is leaking and will be replaced. Can't do it right now since it's just too cold to work outside for more than a few minutes. As soon as I'm able, I'll pull both tanks along with the hoses and regulator and take the whole thing to a local propane dealer. I'll ask them to inspect and repair as necessary. If they can't repair, then we'll start the process of replacing. I'm pretty confident that the valve's rubber seals have just gotten hard and dry over the years, and the tech at the propane dealer agreed that it could be something as simple as this. Could also be something much more involved. Won't know till he sees the tanks, of course. Other than this issue, the tanks only show a little bit of wear and surface rust around the very outside parts of the handles. I would doubt that they've been used much and fortunately they are located in a dry bay and have not been exposed to weather. There are gauges on both tanks, and they appeared to function up to just a few weeks ago. The one tank whose gauge showed content a few weeks ago is the one that leaked, and at the moment it is showing nothing. I have a photo taken from when I first noticed the smell which showed '20' on the level. Now it shows '0'. Regarding the markings on the gauge itself, I don't read them as indicating the actual content of the tank. There are three lines to the text: Propane 50/50 Pro-Bu Butane To my reading, this is information about the rating of the gauge, not the content of the tank. There are other marking & instructions on the gauge about filling, etc. I will have to confirm this when I take the tanks in for service. That's all I got for now. I'll do my best to report back once I get the tanks in for service and have more information. Maybe others can benefit from whatever I learn.