16 replies to this topic

[lylefikse]

How much should outside temps effect temps in my fridge and freezer? This weekend temps were mild. 74 during the day and 45 at night. We were parked so the fridge side of our motorhome got some afternoon sun. Temps varied from 12 degrees in freezer during the day and 6 at night. Fridge varied from 43 during the day to 33 at night. Is this normal for 10 degree swings in 24 hours? We put a new board in this unit and a new thermistor. Temps still vary a lot. Still new to using this kind of unit and want to know if this is normal.

[wolfe10]

That is quite a wide temperature range.

Start by pulling out your refrigerator installation manual (or access it on-line). Compare your installation with that specified by your refrigerator maker.

Is it in a slide, or a fixed part of the coach such that the upper vent is in the roof vs wall?

Do you have booster fans in the back of the refrigerator (outside access area)? If so, are they at or near the top of the cooling unit and exhausting up/out?

[lylefikse]

It is in a fixed part of the coach. Has fans on the back near top. I hear it/them running from time to time. Vent is on the roof. Not sure if fans exhausts up or not. What is a normal temp range?

[DickandLois]

Wounder if just one fan is operating if you have two mounted on the back of the refrigerator.

Rich.

[wolfe10]

You may be able to look up in the outside access area to see if both fans are working. May be able to tell from there whether the fans are properly installed (exhausting UP).

But, also, as I mentioned in my first post, check the recommended side and outside wall clearances recommended by your Norcold. Pay particular attention to any open area above the refrigerator, as that can cause heat to circulate rather than exhaust.

[lylefikse]

Since we bought an extended warranty with our coach, I passed this problem on to the dealer. They think,(#1 and most likely) a blockage in the cooling unit, or (#2 small leak detected) a bad door seal, or (#3) fans not working right. They say, even with a mirror, only one fan can be seen (it is working). To see and check both fans the fridge needs to be pulled out. (I would think you could disconnect the one fan and listen for the other unless they are wired together) When checking with Norcold, they were told for the 1210 4 door they do not have replacement seals, both doors need to be replaced. $600+ for one and $700+ for the other. Sounds like a bad design to me. Updates to follow. We have not contacted the warranty company yet. Don't know what to expect. Hope we get off with our $100 deductable. We have about had it with Norcold.

[lylefikse]

Maybe have a solution. The dealer found a loose wire going to one of the heating elements. He says there are 2 elements when on electric. (News to me) It seems one of the elements was only working part of the time do to the loose wire. When we would drive it, it would wiggle around and no telling what would happen next. After tightening the wire, the unit is cooling for them. Zero degrees in the freezer and 27 in the fridge on #5. We could never get below 7 or the freezer would be to warm. We will try it soon. Seems when they replaced the mother board one wire did not get put back correctly.

Anyone else get another Norcold recall? We got one that seems to replace a previous recall. Looks like we will have to wait longer to go to an Amish unit.

[wolfe10]

Lyle,

Thanks for the update-- certainly an inexpensive "fix".

[rhaeflin]

From our experience, the Amish cooling unit is no improvement. We replaced the original Norcold cooling unit a year ago after the repair center insisted it was bad. The new Amish unit preformed no better than the "Defective" Norcold unit.

The normal refrigerator temperature is 36-55 degrees depending on outside temperature. The temperature remains the same at 6, 7, 8, and 9 on the temp setting. On one hot day we did not open the unit for 24 hour. The 7:00AM reading was 42 degree (85 outside), it was up to 58 by 4:00PM with an outside temperature of 106 degrees. The refrigerator was in the shade all day.

Left freezer compartment hold at 0 degrees and may climb one or two degrees on 100 plus days. Right freezer stays in the 10-12 degree range.

Installation and clearances where checked at the time of cooling unit change over and all match Norcolds specs for proper installation. All boards and the thermister where replaced. Doors seals have been inspected and are ok. Infrared shows only a slight leak at center seal of refrigerator compartment and none at freezer doors.

12 volt and 120 volt supplies are all within spec. Fans all work, Additional fans added to top of roof vent. Fans added to inside of refrigerator and did not help. No difference in performance on LP or electric. Both heat sources here checked and performed within spec.

It seems like a 50 degree difference form outside temperature is the best it will do. When it was 106 outside the best we could get is 56 degrees on any setting. When it is 85 or less the best we get is 36 degrees.

We have been trying to find a residential refrigerator that will work. Due to very limited space and the floor plan almost nothing will fit. Has anybody had any experience with the apartment size refrigerators made by Summit or the model LRBP1031T made by LG.

[DickandLois]

Could you list your refrigerator model number so I can get some dimensions.

What size inverter do you have? Pure sine wave or MSW? And the number of coach batteries and type.

I will look around if you like!

Rich.

[wolverinedlk]

I have read that some people have replaced their Norcold 1210 with a Samsung RF197 (A Home refrigerator). I made note of it, but have not researched further. My Norcold 1210 was new last spring and has done a very good job retaining low temperatures. Much better than the old one it replaced.

When your temperatures go up a little, look at your fins in the top rear of the refrigerator. If all of the frost is gone, it defrosted itself. The temperatures will go down again when defrost cycle is done.

[rhaeflin]

Thanks Rich, I'll take all the help I can get.

We currently have a Norcold 1200LRIM unit.

The inverter is a Magnum and think it is 2000 watts based on the sales brochure for the coach. I will have to pull it to get a model number. It is in a 2006 40ft Pusher with four 6 volt Lifeline house batteries. I can make room for two more batteries with some modifications to the compartment. I will change out the inverter and add the batteries if necessary to change over to a residential unit.

Right now I am trying to find units that will fit and then I will have to determine what I need to change to accommodate them.

The coach manufacture only made the space big enough for the Norcold unit. I can not gain any width or depth With major cabinet work we can get to 73" tall on the opening.

There is a cabinet directly across from the Norcold. The new unit can not be deeper that 52" with the doors open. This measurement is the max. Any clearance needed at the back for proper performance or at the front for fingers and door swing needs to be deducted.


Thanks,

Roger

[rhaeflin]

I checked the Samsung's last year and the 18CF french door model that everyone was using would not fit due to my tight space. It is to deep.

Thanks for you help.

[DickandLois]

Roger,

Thanks for the information. With 6 Lifeline deep cycle batteries you should have all the power you need, unless you do a lot of dry camping. Even then running the generator would bring them back up or better yet you could add some solar panels.

Will look around for some options now that I have the model refrigerator.

I can look up the information on the inverter also.

We will be camping this weekend, taking in some of the Fall color. So give me a couple of extra days.

Been in contact with owners that have made the change over. Samsung and Hotpoint units come to mind as options, but manufactures change models and the doors around.

Freezer on the bottom or upright ?

Rich.

[rhaeflin]

No preference on freezer location.

Enjoy the fall colors.

[DickandLois]

Roger, This is the information I have come up with.
Refrigerators: Frigidaire options
Model LFHT1513LW, Model #: FFTR1513LW, Model #: FFTR1713LW, Model #: FFTR1515LW. Frigidaire FFPT12F3MW( This one has the door clearance mentioned)


http://www.rainbowap...=shoppingdotcom
Link listed for color options on the linked model.

Whirlpool Top-Freezer. options.
Model #: W8TXNGMWQ, Model #: W4TXNWFWQ,

Hotpoint option.
Hotpot refrigerator HTR16ABSRWW,046-86662-000

Edited 10-22-12 Hotpoint / GE option: Link. Depth is 28in. ??

http://products.geap...&Sku=HTH17CBTBB


Could not find a Samsung unit that fit your size and space restrictions.

The depth is the biggest issue, Working from the dimensions listed for the 1200 unit currently installed.
The ability to open the door(s) to a full 90 deg. is difficult, found one that would allow the door to open to 90deg. The 52 in. you listed. Most have a open door measurement of 57in.
The height and width fit the requirement for the opening you have, all will require some fitting or trim work to ether allow for additional height or slight differences in width.
I did not check to see if ice-makers where available,that item was not listed in the information I looked at.

If you have a MS-2000 inverter, then its a pure sine wave unit. A 2000 ME is a modified sine wave unit.
The new electronics equipment likes the pure sine wave power. The modified sine wave will work on many of the systems, but if things get a little testy on the inverter and work OK on shore power. Think inverter !
Link to a nice article on the inverter(s).
http://www.magnumene...ilent_power.pdf

Been reading an article where a party that changed from a LP type refrigerator to a home style, turns off there inverter at night to conserve battery power. The temperature change over night has been minimal, with both the freezer and refrigerator temps holding well.
An Roger, installing a 110 volt refrigerator will require changing the current outlet from a shore power only circuit to one of the inverter out put circuits. The model you have may have two 15 amp breakers or 1--15 amp and 1--20 amp. I would make the 20 amp one the source for the refrigerator.

Hope this gets you off to a good start. Rich.

[lylefikse]

Update on loose wire. We have been using the fridge for over a month now. Works fine on #3. Before it needed to be on 8 or 9 and was all over the place. Now temps in the fridge stay between 36 and 42 degrees. Freezer also working well. Check those wires if you are having strange problems.