Replacing Norcold 1210 with Residential Refrigerator
Posted 30 August 2012 - 02:15 PM
We have a 2008 Damon Essence (bought used last year with 9,000 miles so we did well with that) and not happy with the Norcold and could use help, advice,etc. from anyone who has gone through this.
I have looked through the forum and it is great!!
Appreciate any help we can get.
Posted 30 August 2012 - 02:35 PM
Can't help with the selection of a particular residential refrigerator, but be sure your electrical system is up to the task, particularly if you camp without electricity.
Dry camping will require a reasonably substantial house battery bank and a quality inverter (pure sine wave best).
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Posted 30 August 2012 - 04:06 PM
99.9% of the time we do not dry camp and have the generator if we ever do and I am making sure the inverter is a pure sine wave, so I have gotten the electrical part figured out but trying to find out if one will fit is the issue and what brand anyone might know will handle the "jostling" in the MH.
Posted 30 August 2012 - 09:49 PM
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Posted 30 August 2012 - 10:19 PM
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Posted 31 August 2012 - 06:15 AM
Posted 05 September 2012 - 09:46 AM
Posted 05 September 2012 - 09:47 AM
This is a low amperage compressor, has worked well on the inverter, a square wave 2000 watt Dimensions original issue on our 2007 Allegro Bus. I had previously replaced the house batteries with 4 12v AGM Lifelines so I have about 420 Amp-hrs there. We do not dry camp, except for an occasional overnite, and could always run the generator if necessary.
The Norcold was junk, and a fire hazard. We have about 8 months and 18,000 miles on the Samsung. It is great to wake up, open the door and see "36 deg." in there!
Posted 05 September 2012 - 11:11 AM
Although we have had absolutely no problem with the Dometic, the Norcold stories are legendary. We are opting to change to this fridge for some very simple reasons. First the Samsung simply has much, much more space than our Dometic. The new fridge is a 20 cubic foot french door model with bottom freezer. We ordered it in black to match our other appliances. This model we chose has an internal ice maker. No water or Ice to the door. For us, this was the best choice cause as we are on the go, we tend to use bottled water and can't remember the last time we used the door mounted water dispenser. We are also confident that the residential fridge will make much more ice than did the Dometic. It's important to keep up with cocktail hour.
Now as far as energy use...the Samsung will use about 75% less electrical energy than does the Dometic. We are lucky that our 08 American Eagle has a high capacity pure sine wave inverter. The new fridge will be plugged into the inverter supplied outlet. (we have two outlets to the rear of the Dometic). We do not dry camp very often, however when researching the switch and consulting our American Coach Owners Yahoo group, we found that NO ADDITIONAL BATTERIES ARE NEEDED. We should expect (with actual testing from another AC owner) 12 hours of operation if dry. Plenty of time to run the generator a couple of hours a day if needed. Anyway I hope this helps.
Posted 05 September 2012 - 01:24 PM
It works perfectly, we do not dry camp and it will hold the cold while we drive. I have installed a pure sine wave inverter with two batteries for the future.
For us it was a good move.
Posted 06 September 2012 - 06:13 AM
Posted 06 September 2012 - 06:40 AM
Just a thought.
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Posted 06 September 2012 - 05:22 PM
Posted 07 September 2012 - 10:51 AM
We are scheduled for next week.
They are in stock 2 max 3 days for install.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 03:21 PM
The end result-one extremely unhappy wife and a Norcold 1210 that gets down to about 45 degrees F on a good day. BTW the MH is a 2007 Allegro Bus 40'QDP. My wife wants to replace the ***n thing with a residential unit, preferable frost free, and thru the door water & ice if possible. I also have to consider the door hinge side factor. Or as the Norcold has, double swing doors.
If you have any info on possible replacement units that might fit, physically as well as financially, we'd appreciate it.
Posted 18 December 2012 - 10:38 PM
Posted 20 December 2012 - 06:16 PM
Think you might have a raised pedestal that the fridge sets on, this allows space for the water and heat runs. One can remove the leveling pads if the floor is level in relation to the floor. You the can place screws through the holes used for the levelers to fasten it to the top of the pedestal. Tight spot so a right angle Philips screw driver is required (Ratcheting screw driver) works the best. Place washers under the screw heads to cover the hole and allow you to use a smaller screw size. Too long of a screw and it can cause damage to the items under the pedestal.
You can use Velcro loop(s) around the handles to keep the doors closed should things shift and push on the doors. Some bottom freezers have a lock, requiring you to lift up and pull out to open it. How does yours work?
You might want to do some changes to the AC wiring to the outlet for the fridge so it can run off the inverter. This would require information on just how your coach circuits are wired.
Posted 21 December 2012 - 01:58 PM
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