Welcome to the FMCA Motorhome Forums!
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and signed in, you will be able to create topics; post replies to existing topics; upload pictures; manage your profile; get your own private messenger; create blogs; and more. Sign up now! Already have an account? Sign in. This message will be removed once you are signed in.
2001 Winne Journey - Bolts Not Tightened
Posted 23 November 2012 - 12:57 PM
Posted 23 November 2012 - 02:13 PM
Posted 23 November 2012 - 03:53 PM
Posted 23 November 2012 - 05:09 PM
Posted 23 November 2012 - 05:23 PM
Post a photo and we can probably be a lot more help.
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
Posted 12 December 2012 - 08:53 PM
My plan is to either loosen the nut or cut it off, then grip bolt from bottom and tighten as much as possible. My hope is that the aluminum beam will not allow head to pull completely out.
May be a while, as I will take my time. Have made last use of RV for the winter. I am in Central Florida and have daily access to my unit.
Thank All for your inputs.
Posted 12 December 2012 - 08:54 PM
Posted 12 December 2012 - 10:19 PM
Always wondered why coach manufactures did not add a PVC barrier between them and use stainless steel bolts and rivets. AH yes that thing called add on cost to do it. !!!
Posted 13 December 2012 - 07:04 PM
I am stuck with using the same bolts, just have to figure out how to tighten a bolt without access to it's head; thereby my plan of degrading enough of the bottom of the bolt to grip and tighten. There currently is so little amount of threading below the nut that no grip is possible(on either bolt). Here I am considering cutting the frozen nut and proceed from that situation.
I will take your advise and obtain some teflon material to make washers for the contact point.
Posted 25 December 2012 - 04:16 AM
Could you give me the length of the gap between the wash / nut combination and the frame Rail.
Think you might be able to grip the exposed bolt with a pair of vice grips to hold the bolt so you could use a cutoff wheel and a Dremel Tool to cut two slots in the nut and washer so you could then remove the nut in 2 half's. Being very careful so to limit damage to the bolt threads. Then with the proper sized die cut new threads on the exposed bolt to the best of ones ability. I have used a 6 point deep well socket to turn a die down on the threads, then place washers on the section you can not thread. One might be able to use some JB Weld to hold (lock) the washers to the bolt keep the threads clean, then tighten the nut. if it tightens down enough to cause the hidden bolt head to grip the back side of the frame rail,one should be able to torque it down enough to keep it tight.
This is a slow process,but it works.
To get enough room to work, removing the tire might be necessary. This requires the coach to be parked on a level surface, with a good concrete base and 2 good Jake Stands under the axle. 6 ton truck stands at least. Check the front axle wight on your coach and use bigger stands if needed. The tires are heavy to remove and handle !!!!
Think ahead on how your going to approach the problem, walk away and then look and think some more. Only going to get one shot at getting a good fix on this one from the information you have posted.
Posted 25 December 2012 - 11:56 PM
Very good technique suggestions. I am first checking that I have the correct die before I cut the nuts off.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users